Foretravel Owners' Forum

The Dometic RM7832 in my 98 U320 is not cooling well.  It has never done very well in hot weather and as I move south now it is really struggling.  I will be in Nac in Sept and called to get estimate of cost to replace with some kind of residential fridge.  Labor estimate was 22 hours.  Seems like a lot but window has to be removed to get the old one out so maybe justified?
Questions are:
Fridge is about 32x59.  Ideally would like to replace it with something same size but after looking over some of previous threads on this topic I didn't see where anybody had found something like that.  Samsung sounds good but I would prefer not to lose the cabinet space under the current fridge. 
So I believe my options are to lose the cabinet with a full height fridge (like Samsung) or drop back to 24" wide which I think can be found in the height around 59".  I would like to get suggestions, with current model numbers please, of fridges that people have either used or have found something they think would work.  I'm in a limited internet area and searching is a relatively slow process.
Next question, if fridge doesn't make it until I get to Nac does anyone have any suggestions as to where to go to get this work done?  I'm currently in eastern Montana, headed through NorthDakota, northern Minnesota, Iowa and then to Texas.  I read where some folks got theirs replaced for much less labor cost than 22 hours but don't know if their installations are a valid comparison with mine.  I do want to get a good job done.
Thanks

22 hours for labor sounds a lot like $2200

Check out Sea Freeze of America - Custom Refrigeration (http://www.seafreezeinc.com/custom.shtml)

for a custom built fridge just the size you want.

best, paul

They worked three days on my fridge and had two guys too. They changed 18 hours but had over 30 in it that I could see.

They pulled all new fuel lines for me too. They had four guys on it for a full day and part of another and it was 23 hours.  I do not have an issue with the time and the one thing I had an issue with in remodel was brought to their attention and was cut in half.  I have to say that I have not had an hours issue with either the factory or MOT in years.

I recently replaced the cooling unit in the RM7832 that is in my 1996 U320.  I installed a condenser cooling fan kit at the same time. The refrigerator works great and I live in the Houston area where 98 degree days and 95% humidity are common. I am going to install a fan kit on the refrigerator of my 2005 coach as soon as I get the coach home.

This is the one I used:

http://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-add-on-Frame-Fan-bracket-kit-2-fans-switch-wiring--P3261872.aspx (http://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-add-on-Frame-Fan-bracket-kit-2-fans-switch-wiring--P3261872.aspx)

I bought a wireless refrigerator/freezer thermometer with separate senders for the refrigerator and freezer so I can monitor the actual temperatures without opening doors.

Follow up to my previous post in this thread.  Installed the new refrigerator and it worked.  Replaced the Norcold 682 with a Norcold N841.  Removed the window at the kitchen table to get the old one out and the new one in.  Storage yard owner backed his flat bed truck up to the window so a couple of helpers could stand outside the window.  Removed the refrig doors and they went in and out with the door opening down.  Not very hard at all, nothing got scratched up.  Had a furniture blanket on the window opening and table.  I didn't have to do any trimming of the cabinet opening to get the new one it.  It fit perfectly. 

After removing the old refrigerator, I was somewhat appalled that Foretravel did not follow the installation instructions for the old refrig .  Usually they are very good about that sort of thing.  The area above the refrigerator was not blocked off and there was too much space behind the refrigerator.  Apparently that is important as the airflow in at the bottom and out at the top works somewhat like a chimney does.  Before I picked up the new one, I built a baffle wall to reduce the space behind the refrig.  Just a couple of pieces of wood fastened to the wall with screws and piece of thin aluminum sheet metal fastened to the wood.  I did put some fiberglass insulation behind the aluminum.  Stapled some insulation to the ceiling above the refrig and added a piece of aluminum to block off that area.  The ideal installation seems  to have the refrig as close to the back wall as possible without touching it.  Up to 1" space is okay; 1 - 2" add a couple of baffles; more than 2" build a baffle wall.  The old instructions do not mention a baffle wall, but the new instructions do.  Foretravel insulated the sides of the cabinet, a good thing, also the fit is very close on the sides which is good.  I added some metal on the side wall near the burner exhaust where the foam was melted.  It doesn't extend along the side of the refrig though as that would transfer heat into that area.  The trim around the front of the new refrig is not quite as wide as the old trim.  The wood outside the old trim is darker than what was under the old trim.  Didn't look good, so masked off a small strip down the sides and painted it black.  Needless to say both the old and new refrigerators went in and out of the cabinet several times, before everything was correct.  This would have been a real problem without the little table level with the bottom of the opening.

Started the refrig at 10:30 am with the temp setting at 5 (range 1-9), shut off the generator and air conditioning and went home.  Returned at 7 pm 8 1/2 hours later; coach interior 106 F, outside 99 F, Freezer 0 F, Refrig  39 F.  At 10:30 am the next morning coach interior 91 F, outside 87 F, freezer -2 F, refrig 37 F.  I think it is working okay.  I have no fans, but nothing was in the refrigerator and the doors stayed closed.  The temperature shot up to about 50 F in the refrig shortly after opening the door. 

There are some differences between the old and new.  Some of the plumbing on the back is different but the major parts are in the same places.  An overheat sensor has been added near the burner area.  There is supposed to be an audible alarm for door open, no flame, no ac, etc  I haven't heard it, but the visual indications work as advertised.  The manuals are rather hard to use, all the illustrations are on the last pages after the french section.  The wiring diagrams have lots of numbers and letters that have to be looked up in the middle of the book.  Finally printed out that page from the website to make it easier.  Norcold does have a manuals section on their website. 

Inserts for the door are purchased separately and the old ones are not wide enough for the new doors.  I made my own from 1/4" oak plywood which is 7/32" thick, still too thick as 3/16" is specified as the correct thickness for an insert.  Plywood will work though if the edge thickness is reduced with a belt sander on the back side.  There is still space between the panel and the door in the middle area.  I choose plywood over plastic as it is has slightly better insulating qualities.  Sealed both sides with 2 coats of thin dewaxed shellac and 3 coats of Miniwax satin finish polyurethane on the good side.  Light sanding between coats.  Shellac is not water resistant, but it does slow down the movement of moisture in and out of the wood.  The color match with what is in the coach is very close.