Cummins air filter minder wasn't working so after verifying that the gauge actually functioned by sucking into the disconnected tubing at the air filter housing, I pulled the 1/8" fitting out that has the barb for the tubing. Completely closed off due to some sort of shaved metal or rock or something clogging up the opening. Wouldn't come out with a screw driver or even a pick so I put a small 1/16" drill bit onto my drill and opened it up.
Everything works again though I did give up on getting the rest of the gunk out of there, it is completely stuck to the fitting. Nice thing is you don't even have to open up your filter housing or anything.
Robert,
I am concerned. The air filter minder is connected between the air filter and the turbo-- i.e. on the CLEAN side of the air filter. Rocks or metal there is reason to dig deeper.
Would pull the filter out and inspect for damage. New one is cheap compared to the damage dirt or metal could will do to the engine. You could have hidden rodent damage to the filter, could have been blown clean while wet causing damage. Never use anything like a K&N, only OEM type filters. Brett's concern is shared.
Pierce
The filter was intact but has some evidence of being wet, probably from driving across the midwest blizzard last Christmas. I'm sure I probably sucked up lots of snow. I've got another filter on order since I pulled this one out.
Really hard to say what the stuff in there is. Could have always been in there. The way the top of the of the air filter is designed, with a tiny little hole to allow the air vacuum gauge to measure, makes me wonder how anything would make it into there. However it got in, it certainly doesn't want to come off or out.
I attached a picture of the stuff though its kind of hard to see since the camera wouldn't focus on something that small and close to it-
Why do you say that? I thought paper filters would deterate over time and become less effective. I was considering a K&N. thanks, David
I would agree normally but my retirement biz is to build dirt bike engines and K&N's pass ultra fine dust. Trust me. Long run not good
Sad fact, many folks drink the K&N Kool Aide only to find a "Dusted" engine.
Another sad fact, friend changed to the K&N because the paper filter stopped up to quick, went to the K&N, great as it NEVER stopped up, but his 8V-71 DDC soon had too low compression, needed "starter fluid" even on a hot engine to get started, or course the hp was also gone. Dusted is the correct word, thanks to K&N Kool Aide.
Some good discussion here on the forum on why not to use a K&N (I know we never will again)
Aero & K&N & UltraPower (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16551.0)
Good posts and information. I have determined that when a filter needs to be oiled in order to catch dirt, that essentially means the filtering media itself is incapable of doing the job alone. So, that tells me that its way too generous in its porosity to trap nearly anything. I will continue to use my paper OEM style filter. Thanks for all information. This forum is such a wonderful asset. David
Unless you have a late model with a high air intake, your diesel pusher's air cleaner has to deal with many, many times as much dirt as a front engined motorhome. We go down a lot of forest service roads where the front AND rear tires kick up a lot of dirt and dust. Foretravel didn't recognize the problem until late 1993 so our air intake is almost on the ground right behind the rear tires. Before we take our long fall trip, I'm going to change the intake system so it matches the later style like Kent Speers has. Detroits take in much more air than a Cummins/CAT so an air intake fault can easily make a "dusted" engine quickly. Saw one member with an $18K bill for an inframe overhaul with new pistons/liners. All because of an intake clamp not reinstalled correctly after a shop did work on the turbo.
Pierce
Pierce, can you point me in the right direction on Kens air intake mod. Searching "air intake" showes this threads result.
Retired Navy Chief,
If you haven't seen this post, it really is an excellent discussion-
Air Filter - Engine (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10221.25)
John,
This applies to side radiator models only. To make the modification, take three mouldings off around the louver assembly. Remove the assembly and then look down at the right corner where some of the filter air is taken in. You can see there is a gap where anything on the road will be sucked up into the filter canister. Ours had leaves and twigs on the outside of the filter cartridge. Go to Home Depot or local plumbing store and buy a galvanized fitting from rectangular to 6" round to fit a thin wall plastic pipe (not schedule 40). The pipe will go across the bottom of the radiator and you will have to mark and cut a hole in the flexible rubber panel on the far side. The factory brought the pipe up at a slight angle to clear the dock light but I'm going to fit LEDs to the light and cut off the rear part. I like a true 90 up so everything fits better. Another 6" pipe will go up approx 3 feet, make a 90 and out the side. I found a grate that will fit and look good. Need to make sure the hole is exactly where you want it to be in the side of the coach. Nice to take a look at a late 93 to see how they did it. After it's finished, the transition between the factory air box and the new galvanized tin part will need to be sealed.
Good time to check/renew the fasteners on the bottom rubber between the body and radiator.
Parts are a 10' section of 6" pipe (think it is the white stuff), two 6" 90 degree fittings, an exterior trim grate and the galvanized sheet metal part plus misc sealers, etc. About $50 for everything.
Pierce
Pierce, my 94 (early may) 280, 8.3 Cummings has the air filter just above floor level in the coach below the drawers in the bedroom, drivers side. So the mod your discussing is for the detroit and I forgot kent has the same engine. I have watched the air filter seems ok maybe they fixed it in this model. Like the idea of ram air.
Thanks for your experience ^.^d