I need advice on replacing my toilet. I have a Thetford AquaMagic GL. It's probably the original from 1991. The linkage fell off the water valve last night leaving the water valve wide open. I had to turn my water pump off to keep from overfilling the toilet. I have a couple of rebuild kits, one is a replacement water valve and the other is replacement gaskets for the "mechanism", which is the big gate valve on the bottom of the toilet bowl. I wasn't able to use either of the rebuild kits even though it probably needs both of them. The screws are so rusted that I can't get them out even after soaking them in penetrating oil and using an impact driver with a 2.5 lb hammer. This explains why the previous owner left me the rebuild kits, because he couldn't get the toilet apart to rebuild it either. Some of the plastic parts were cracked and the metal linkage on the water valve had fallen off with no means of securing it back on the valve handle. I carefully bent the linkage and tested it several times and it appears to stay on the valve now. I had to cut an access hole in the side of the toilet to get my hand inside so I could put the back nut on that holds the toilet down on the flange. Even the front bolt was very difficult to get to. I honestly can't believe anyone would design something this difficult to service, but whatever. My coach has Quest gray plastic tubing for its plumbing and fittings are no longer available. The previous owner had hose clamped a sink sprayer hose over the end of the Quest elbow and then hooked it to the toilet. I was unable to get that old hose to seal so I used a longer hose when I reinstalled the toilet. I think I need to find a plumbing supply place that has a way to adapt from Quest to some other fitting that's still available... So all that was just to get to my question. What are my best options for a replacement toilet? I got my toilet back together and working at least as well as before, so it's not an emergency, at least not right now. Should I just buy the current version of the same toilet I have? Where will I get the best deal, or should I just go to an RV place and pay the guy to install it! hahaha ...Hey, it's really difficult to get the toilet off and back on again plus I have the extra challenge of the Quest tubing... and I already did it once, so my manly repair abilities are no longer in question here... at least not on this particular item! ;D
You can buy quest fittings or replacements for them that work on the quest system from PPL in Houston, Tx. They have an on line store.
It's actually easy to pull the toilet to do the repairs---- you have to pull it anyway to replace, so you might as well see if you can fix it instead. I have the same head on my 1990. The base of this toilet has a rubber gasket I believe, not a wax ring. It will need replacing. Once you get the head out, grind the heads off the screws, remove the plastic parts, and then put the old vice grips on the to get them out. Replace with new ones and away you go.
Of course, there is nothing wrong with a new toilet either!
Scott,
We haven't changed ours out yet but have been researching this and have talked to several other Foretravel owners that have changed to this Aria Deluxe II (http://thetford.com/?TabId=82) and have been very satisfied.
If you go to a plumbing supply house they should have an adaptor to go from the old style Quest to PEX. I have found them at some of the big box stores. Look for one in the Sharkbite brand if you go to the home improvement store.
Pamela & Mike
thats what I switched to and both DW and I think it was a BIG upgrade from the previous one - bolt holes were different though.....
Thanks for the tip. I've done a bit of work on our (original?) toilet, but I'm thinking that it really needs to be replaced, too. Tim, did you opt for the taller or shorter version?
David,
We have looked at both side by side and are going to get the 17 1/2" high profile. It seems to have a better leg angle and thus a better set. ^.^d Now this could be a problem if someone is extremely short. Hopefully Mark B will chime in as to which they have, they are the ones that put us on to this unit.
Pamela
Tall and elongated. All good, way better
Thanks, Pamela and Tim. We'll add that to the list of needed renovations.
JohnS has one too
I will need the 11" model instead of the 17" model due to the cabinet door behind my toilet. Have any of you bought the 11" model? I presume there's an adapter with the correct bolt pattern? The bolts must be a lot easier to get to than they are on my old Galaxy model.
Scott,
The bolts are out in the open and have little covers that top them once they are tight.
Pamela & Mike
Looks like I can't use any of the Aria type toilets because the cabinet door behind my toilet won't clear the back of the toilet. I think I can use the Aqua Magic Style II though. It's only 14" tall, which is about all the clearance I have for the cabinet door... Has anyone on this forum bought the Style II? ...What other good options do I have for replacement toilets that aren't over 14" tall?
Consider Dometic Sealand Traveler? Big deep bowl, comes in short height for mounting where holding tank is not right below toilet, and regular floor mount over toilet. Very popular, pedal, non-electric toilet used by Foretravel for years.
I put the Thetford aria in as well but mines all manual. I love it as it works better then any one we have had. That us six different RV toilets and many boat toilets. Easy remove and replace but Tim is right about the bolt holes but it is Not a big issue really.
I thought you were a boondocker ::) if im wrong just disregard.
Looked at a composting toilet. Video with the Winns. ^.^d
John I am glad you clarified. I thought you were suggesting nearby bushes & trees :o :o
Larry
Cute! :P
I think the Dometic 320 is short enough for my cabinet door to clear it. Does anyone on this forum have that model?
Scott, I have that same grey piping in my 93 I believe. My solution is to cut the stuff square, round off the cut end with a pair of pliers and install a sharkbite fitting. Then I can use the plastic pipe ( Pex?) that is used in houses to complete my plumbing. I have not expreienced any leaks using this method.
Roland
In the deserts of the west a little water is appreciated by the foliage. :P
Craig
Thanks for the advice Roland. Apparently I do have a water leak behind my toilet now. Tomorrow is a holiday so I doubt many plumbing supply stores will be open. As soon as I get a chance I'll go to a plumbing supply store to see if I can fix the leak without removing my toilet again. If I can't I'll have to get a new toilet right away. I don't want water damage. There isn't any isolation valve to shut off the water to the toilet unfortunately. I think I'll install one though. The only thing I can do currently is turn off the pump and release the water pressure back into the fresh water tank.
I think I'm going to order the Dometic 320 low profile, possibly from RV Parts Country on the internet. The Dometic appears to be a higher quality toilet than the Thetford Aqua Magic Style II low profile, and better looking too. I need a 14" or shorter toilet so the cabinet door will clear the back of the toilet. I presume I want to order the "bone" color because the "white" colored one will be brilliant white compared to the rest of the bathroom in my 1991 U300 won't it?
Do any of you have experience with the Dometic 320? The only negative comment I've found on the internet about a Dometic toilet was about the seal between the porcelain bowl and plastic pedestal leaking on one of their 310 models due to a factory defect. They replaced it free of charge and the new one is okay.
I have a Sealand in my '91 U300, I think it was original but really can't be sure. I've done one service where I replace most of the major parts in the 13 years of ownership - they still make the same one today which say's something.
I don't see the Sealand on Dometic's website. Unfortunately the 320 low profile is over 15" tall instead of the 14" they claim on their website, which means it's too tall for my cabinet door to clear it... :-( ...Looks like I'll probably buy the Thetford Aqua Magic Style II low profile in bone color with a hand sprayer. I'll see if I can find one here locally in Maine tomorrow before I order one from the internet. I suspect the shipping will take a looong time.
Sealand was bought by Dometic: They are in the Marine section Marine Leisure - Dometic (http://www.dometic.com/enus/Americas/USA/Marine/)
Mine, which is a low profile, is a Sealand Traveler model 511. PPL has them: SeaLand Traveler for sale at PPL - PPL Motor Homes (http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-toilets-tanks/sealand-traveler.htm)
P.S. I've used Sharkbite fittings, but think standard brass barbed fittings with hose clamps is more secure. That said, I haven't had either fail. The Achillies heel of Sharkbites is the O ring that seals on the outside surface of the tube - if there's a dent or scrape in that surface the O ring can fail to seal.
Contact Dometic Sealand support:
Bill Friedman 800-321-9886
Bill is long time tech manager and knows everything about Sealand. Bill has helped us several times to keep our low base 11" tall (floor to top of seat) Sealand Traveler working as good as new.
We have replaced every part, except for the china bowl, which is no longer made in this height, as new bowls are about an 1" or so taller.
I have used sharkbite fittings in to RVs. Went from the crappy piping in our 93 to Pex, copper to Pex, Pex to Pex have not experienced a leak. Great thing about the sharkbite fittings is that they are removable and reusable.
Roland
I second Roland. I have a bunch of sharkbites in my coach. Never had one leak. The only complaint I have with sharkbites is the price. :(
see ya
ken
I got the Thetford Aqua Magic Style II in bone color. The holes on the mounting flange for my old Aqua Magic Galaxy GL were in different places so I had to drill the flange to get the new toilet to mount. The Shark Bite fitting worked well and isn't leaking at all as far as I can tell. The new toilet is vastly superior in terms of flushing power and it uses very little water. I can probably flush it a dozen times without the water pump coming on. I wanted a hand sprayer on the new toilet, mainly because the old toilet had one and it really needed it due to very weak flushing power. The local Thetford dealer wasn't able to get a hand sprayer model for at least a week or two, and it was gonna cost a lot more. On a hunch I asked him to find out if there's a different water valve on the hand sprayer model or if I can use my old hand sprayer with a non-sprayer toilet. He called his Thetford tech support person and was told that I can cut off a tab and put my old sprayer on the new valve. This saved me a lot of time and money because I didn't have to special order a hand sprayer model... I took a photo of where to cut the valve and put the sprayer hose on. I'll start a separate thread and upload the photo, cuz I guess that's the right thing to do? I doubt many people will read this far down into this thread.
Hi Scott,
Good work, and pictures. Excellent report. I think most read the complete post. Best to have the whole story before trying any ideas.
Raymond
I guess one of the moderators can figure out how to link to the other post and photos.
Another valuable skill I learned is to set the bathroom vent to blow air in instead of out, cuz when it's blowing out it pulls air up the poop pipe and I nearly die of methane inhalation! :))
"Another valuable skill I learned is to set the bathroom vent to blow air in instead of out." How do you do that? Ours has a three-speed fan and all three blow out.
@David is your fan a Fantastic Fan? Ours has a 2nd switch that you can flip so that the fan either sucks or blows. :) Mine isn't original replaced it a couple of years ago.
see ya
ken
Mine is a Fan-tastic Vent 4000R and it's got a reversing switch in addition to a speed control. I discovered recently that it's also got a switch that won't allow the motor to run unless the cover is open.
Don't see any brand name on it, and no second switch. I just looked at Camping World, and the Fantastic Fans sure look like what I have, but mine is only three speeds blowing out. Guess I'll watch for a good deal on one and replace this one with a reversible one.
David, save your money and use your current ceiling fan... These fans use a simple DC motor that runs in the other direction if the fan's two wires are reversed. Simple. Add a DPDT (double-pole, double-throw) switch that connects motor's wires to the two center connections. Connect wires that used to go to motor to the two connections on one end of switch, and reversing the same wires to the other end of the switch. This is all a reversing switch is and you have money left over to buy something for a loved one.