From another thread: "I removed the drain valves in the bottom of the two dry tanks because one of them was leaking and in over two years of checking them I've never yet found any moisture in the dry tanks." When HWH checked my system over last spring, they found lots of leaks, including at both air tanks in front. I'm assuming that I should install my safety stands, then carefully remove/disconnect each leaking connection, and then replace/repair. Should I put teflon tape on the threads, something else, or nothing?
BTW, we had air up earlier this week, and now the white needle is showing 10 lbs and the red is showing 60 lbs. Prior to HWH working on the system I'd be down to 0 within a day or so, so things are better than they were.
As for removing the drain valve and replacing it with a pipe plug, it's just an ordinary iron pipe fitting so yes, you can use teflon tape. You can use pipe dope if you don't like teflon tape. It's compressed air so it makes no difference which one you use. You should use one or the other so you'll be able to get the fitting out years later if needed.
Thanks, Scott. I've got plenty of Teflon tape here (somebody forgot he had some and bought more), so that's what I'll use. Whether I put the drain valve back in or replace it with a plug depends on how badly I tear up the drain valve.
I ran the engine on Sept 2 and filled tanks. It is now10 days later and I have 40 in front and 100 in rear as of today. I do know I still have some minor slow leaking from one connection on throttle valve that is real tough to get to.
JohnH
We have decided to not use Teflon tape anymore, and now use Teflon sealer to get a better seal, eliminate Teflon pieces from getting loose and to coat the threads. We carry thick Teflon tape for difficult threaded connections.