For quite a while my ice maker has been creating a mess in the ice bucket and down the back wall of my freezer, as seen in the photo. It got to the point where it wasn't worth using. I've seen a lot of good information on the Forum about ice maker lines leaking on the outside of the box but I don't think I have that problem. I pulled the ice maker this weekend and the only thing I can see as a potential problem is that the tube coming out of the back wall seems shorter than it needs to be. It barely extends through the wall of the freezer with only about 1/16" extension. And the plumbers putty where the ice maker meets the back wall was compressed to the point where there might have been a gap, allowing water to flow between the interior wall and the ice maker. I reformed the putty so that it would be a more secure fit and put it back together. It is much better but there are still ice columns forming down the back wall. My next thought is to extend the fill tube by about 3/4" with either a smaller diameter tube or a hose barb fitting. I think that would deliver the water deeper into the catch basin, eliminating the opportunity for it to leak down the back side. I wish I would have taken more pictures but those of you who have removed your ice maker probably can probably visualize what I'm talking about. By the way, this was all tested over a couple of days with the coach stationary and level so the water is not sloshing out of the trays. There is also a good 1/4" of space above the water fill line so I don't think it's overfilling. Any experience with this problem?
Easy, buy a new refer, and send me your wire shelf and ice bucket that my coach is missing. Please ;)
I had my ice maker out and remember that the hose was not very long but longer than you mentioned. Add a hose barb and see if you end the ice works.
Funny you mention turning it off when driving, I forgot recently and got a half bucket block of cubes to throw away. Some thing to add to my departure ready list I guess.
Added info, RM 7832, still looking for wire shelf and ice bucket from another forum member's remodel.
I thought my ice bucket block was due to the ice maker being on while traveling until I watched water flow down the back wall this weekend. I do think I'll try the hose barb. That should be an easy thing to test. I was a little worried that it would cause ice to form in the tube, eventually blocking it but I think it will flush itself at every fill. You're 1st in line for the wire rack and bucket but I hope to get several more years out of them. The larger capacity of the residential units is tempting but I like the flexibility of using propane. I'll avoid that decision until this one quits completely.
You might be correct on the hose barb is going to freeze and that is why the hose is so short.
I have a problem with the mid door coach, and the pantry location, and the double door Dometic RM 7832. My refer is in the hall and opens into the pantry. And the pantry doors have to be fully open towards the refer for the 7 inside drawers to extend. A normal counter depth refer now is usually not 24-25", but 27" with the doors and sometimes more with the handles. I might have little option but to do another RV unit with true 24-25" depth. Top and bottom door designs have larger doors and door swings as well, into our narrow hall space.
Note: RM 7832, still looking for wire shelf and ice bucket from another forum member's remodel.
I have the same problem with the ice maker in my coach. This is the NDR1492? I get stalactites and stalagmites and I have tried turning it off when traveling (didn't help much) and so forth. My solution is to have a residential fridge installed in December.
I had the same problem with my uline and after replacing the whole head assembly it works fine now. I dont remember seeing what the cause was but the fill line placement could have been it. Hope you figure it out.
Mark
Mine is a Dometic RM 7832. I have pretty high hopes that extending the water line is going to fix it.
On mine, the back of the frig compartment has two outlets. One for the inverter and one that is powered while on shore power. One is black and one is white. Plugging into the second solves the problem of the fridge trying to make ice on the move.
Rich