Sarted the coach this AM. Ready to leave. Engine died shortly after we got on the road. Restarted OK then died again. Seemed as if the start batteries, red tops, were 3/4 dead. Decided to just throw in some yellow tops and hit the road. Coach did not start with just the start batteries, had to use boost. Left engine running and alternator showed 14 volts. Buttoned erything up and backed out of the driveway only to have the engine die as I am blockkng the street. Ran the generator with the boost switch on for a few minutes then started the coach up and went back into the driveway. With the engine running the alternator reading is 14volts. With the engine not running the alternator reading is zero volts, with the boost switch on 4and the engine not running the aternator reading is 14 volts. Voltage at chassis batteries is 12.2 volt ignition key on or off. What gjives?
Roland
Roland:
These are some of the easier things to check:
• Check condition of fuel by siphoning some from the bottom of the tank.
• clogged filter(s)
• air in system. One item worth checking is the Racor purge pump with the classic "O" Ring issue with the plastic bowl..
• fuel shutoff solenoid
The first thing I would do is change the filters. Hope that does it.
Jason
I believe I have an electrical issue. The coach shuts down completely, does not seem to be a fuel issue. I just started the coach without the starting batteries and I got the same readings as I posted before. The new batteries measure 12.1 vo,ts, seems to me should be closer to 12.5 or 12.6 volts when disconnected. Am going to have the new batteries load tested. I may be focusing in the wrong area but even with a fuel problem the engine should turn over with the start batteries.
Roland
It could be a poor electrical connection between the chassis batteries and engine circuits. Measure voltage at various places with the boost switch off and some engine electrical loads.
Does the chassis battery voltage jump appropriately when you turn boost on?
Start batteries load tested OK. Guess I gotta ceawl under the coach and start taking voltage measurements. With the boost switch in the off position the dash meter shows no voltage, with the boost on the voltage jumps to 14 volts. Gotta get the schematic out and start tracing. Wasn't in too much of a hurry to crawl under there as it was raining, stopped now so i better stop procrastinating.
Roland
Check the ground to the chassis. FT used a star washer to make it and cut thru the paint.
We have had a similiar occurance and it was a selenoid. Replaced it, and all was well.
Fixed.......I think. At least symptoms are normal now. I missed cleaning two connections when I replaced the batteries. Cleaed them off with a file, reconnected everything all systems look normal, 12 volts on the dash meter with boost switch on or off. Coach starts with the starting batteries. Too late to head out now,so the real test will come in the AM. Guess we were not meant to leave today.
Roland
It's aways something! Glad it only cost you aggravation not dollars. :)
see ya
ken
Glad you found the problem and are back on the road. It is amazing the problems a little corrosion can create. It appears that at least 50% of all problems are caused by bad connections.
Jason
When my engine kept shutting down inexplicably, it was an engine protect feature triggered by a low coolant level. I don't profess to be any sort of expert, but that it a really easy thing to check and rule out. Add coolant, job done!
Roland ---- I seem to be missing something here ---- If your engine is a diesel, The only electrical thing that will shut it down is loss of power to the fuel solenoid valve. On my rig, that power comes directly from the ignition switch. I don't know how low the battery voltage has to get to allow that shut off valve to drop out. May be low battery voltage or bad ignition switch or bad solenoid valve. If it continues to happen, I'd check the other possibilities. Have a great day ---- Fritz
I was a bit confused when the problem popped up. When I removed the ground wires from the starting batteries they did not look badly corroded to me. The connectors are copper and they looked oxidized. I used a file to clean them off and voila my symptoms disappeared. I will be removing, cleaning and coating all DC connections in the engine compartment as well as adding a ground wire directly to the starter. Coach is running well now even though I get just a bit nervous when I turn the ignition switch on. ???
Roland
Roland,
There should be a short cable from the negative side of the starter to the chassis usually meeting a cable from the negative side of the engine batteries there. Good idea to break loose the connection there and do the same thing you did at the battery. A file does a good job. Also, consider an additional cable from the battery negative to a close point on the chassis. Usually, only a foot or so away. If any ground fasteners look corroded, install stainless hardware. 308 is good, 316 is even better and is the most corrosive resistive of all the stainless choices.
Pierce
Thanks Pierce will do.
Roland
I hear ya, Roland. Firing mine up next month to go to bike week in Penasco and I'm already getting jittery.