I have heard a lot of good things about HWH service.
As some of you know, Ducky is bogged down in my rain-soaked back yard. I have gotten good advice on how to resolve that issue. My intentions have been to turn the engine on and raise the air bags to allow me to shovel the front of the wheel ruts so that I can slowly drive forward (kitty litter at the drive wheels).
I checked my HWH manual and discovered that the raise button only works as long as I hold my finger on it. I could probably enlist Jean to sit in the pilot's seat and hold it in, but it is still a few days before she attends the Ladies Driving School. Thinking there had to be a better way, I called HWH to find out.
The telephone answerer said all of that information including manuals was on their website. I told her I had just read the manual and wanted to ask about one of the instructions. She forwarded me to tech support. The TS Answerer said that all of the tech support people were busy and if I left my name and number someone would call me back in 2 to 2 1/2 WEEKS! I told her that I just wanted to find out how to keep the coach in a raised position; she said that everyone just has a simple question. Now I understand the true meaning of the duty title I have given her: TS,A!
My contractor is coming tomorrow to dig and build by RV pad. Ducky is impeding that work. Surely, there must be a simple method to keep the airbags raised. How about if I raise it and then turn off the keypad?
Anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Trent
(Still stuck in Owasso)
Start your engine, let air pressure come up, hold "Raise" button down until coach is at max height, shut off engine, release "Raise" button. Unless you have a bad leak, air bags should hold the "full up" position. That's the way it works on our coach. Good luck with the "extraction"!
Trent,
A similar process I use is to have engine on, air pressure up, and air system on. Then press the front up button till no more movement and then the rear up button until no more movement.
Turn engine off and air system off if you wish. My coach will sit that way for weeks.
Please my all the best getting out.
but if engine is on, won't coach want to go to travel mode once you release and put in gear?
Tim,
My procedure will sit at full height with the engine running. Have not tried this when not in neutral. I am sitting at the wheel when not in neutral so holding the raise button would be okay when moving the coach at least for me.
Notice I said "Shut off engine"...THEN..."Release raise button".
I think the problem is that if you want to use the coach to help drive itself out of the hole while trying to pull it out, it will lower itself into travel mode as soon as you release the button while the engine is running. I think that is a good idea to reduce stress on the bulkhead joints. Depending on the incline of the ramps you dig out in front of the Duels, and with the addition of gravel for traction, you may not need a whole lot of external polling force to get it out. We once got stuck when I thought I could turn a regular campsite into a pull through. It would have worked, if it hadn't been raining the previous three nights before we got there... that is my story and I'm sticking to it! Another camper was kind enough to allow me to hook my safety cables onto his Hitch on his duly truck. Admittedly, it was from behind, but it worked with no drama.
Don
agree on how the HWH works, and agree, low pulling force and no drama when pulled from behind on slick grass. +3 on no drama pulled from behind.
Tim
Yes, mine works as above. I often raise the coach all the way up then hit the level button. Coach stays raised all the time until I start the engine and put in drive.
Keith
The way I read the original post, the OP just wanted to raise the coach so he would have working space to dig out around the wheels. I assumed he would let it back down when he got ready to move it. But I could have got that all wrong - wouldn't be the first time!
Cajk is right.
Trent
You can move the coach with the air bags fully inflated if you hold the "Raise" button while the transmission in in "D" or "R." I've used that mode to avoid dragging low parts on a severe surface angle change or a pothole that can't be avoided.
The raised chassis will put a lot of angle in the universal joints in the drive shaft, so be especially careful with application of power and keep the speed below 5 mph. (Keeping the speed low is usually not a problem in the back yard. :P )
Best wishes for dry weather and an extraction with no drama or damage.
Why couldn't you set a 2"x12" pad, several if necessary under the hitch and place hydraulic jack under the hitch and jack the rear wheel up high enough to place plywood, rocks or other medium under the tires to get the traction. Then lower the air pressure in rear tires being careful to keep the inside tire from rubbing the other tire. Place roofing shingles in the entire length of the rut. Remove the dirt from in front of the front tires. Good luck.
OK you can hold the raise button as you are driving just like you can hold the lower button to get under a door. It should stay up after you raise it and shut off the engine.
IF it will not go into travel mode, go under the coach and throw the switch in the silver box.
Speaking of lowering the coach to drive under a door reminds me that when Foretravel built the present showroom building on the corner there on Stallings Drive there was an entry door on the south side for access to the showroom. The door was not tall enough to admit the U 320 models so they had to drive the new show pieces into the showroom while holding the "dump" button. Doesn't' make much difference now, none of the newer models will go in even while "dumped".
Ergo, no indoor showroom any more.
Raise it, shut it off, pull the "travel height" fuse on the HWH board. It will stay up even with the engine on. Reverse process to get back to normal after getting out of hole. ^.^d