Another sub zero night and another problem .
Last year replaced water line to ice maker on back of fridge along with frozen water valve .
This morning discovered new water valve cracked and frozen , the new trace heat wire is not working !
I have 12v from source through 3a fuse , through trace line back to temp switch , which is on , then unable to check due to snow storm freezing my fingers solid .
Did notice cable connected into a black sealed box ??
Any body any thoughts ?
Worse problems heating running all night but , have frozen pipes .
This is going to be an expensive trip
Were both furnaces running? Seems like on our U295 it was the rear furnace that heated the plumbing bay.
Also interested in what you find out on the ice maker line. Had the same thing happen last year and I just now replaced the valve. We haven't had it out in cold weather yet.
Unfortunately, Jimmy is having problems with his rear furnace on this trip Atwood furnace (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23020.0)
Jimmy,
Did you have the "low ambient" switch on in the fridge? I'm not sure exactly what it does (Dometic documentation is sketchy at best), but I wonder if it's required to pass power to that heater wire.
During my adventure with my fridge this summer, I found that the interior fridge light is activated by the low ambient switch. It causes the light to stay on even when the door is closed. The wiring diagram shows this is the way it is designed. Why,I have no idea. But like Michele says "Dometic documentation is sketchy at best."
Rich
The solenoid for the ice-maker switch has frozen on my unit in real cold weather. I do not winterize but I do keep 120ac plugged in. The fridge is "off" so the little heat pad around the solenoid is not powered. I keep a low watt light bulb on under the switch all winter and that has prevented a recurrence of the freeze up.
Thanks guys
Eventually made it back home and the freeze damage is just being evaluated , so far it's all in the wet Bay Area ( rear furnace ) pump or pipework leaking , possible crack in cold water tank , checking monoblock and spit wet bay facet , which I am told is impossible to find. ??
If we learn buy our mistakes I am getting an expensive education !
So sorry to hear this!
I think some members found the wet bay faucet at Grainger. I'll ask Steve if he recalls. If there's a Manabloc issue, Elaine/Donnie have a brand new one for sale in the classifieds (y'all let Jimmy have first crack at it if he needs it) Manabloc Manifold new in box for sale (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22573.0)
Michelle
Thanks for all your help , I got home to find someone had siphoned a full tank of gas out of my truck . I was feeling sorry for myself but a hot meal and a strong drink and things aren't so bad .
Will post the update tomorrow
Quite a trip, hope things settle down now you are home.
I recently bought faucet parts for my 97's wet bay faucet, and think that the whole unit is still available. It is a Kohler Moen brand on my year. Look for wall mount faucets in your search. Some of the coaches I have seen had a drain at the bottom of the center cross tube of the faucet for cold area drain down and winterizing.
Yes mine "had" a center drain
I think it could be this one
That is close, on my coach their is a air opening at the top of the riser, that allows water to back drain. You might be able to reuse your faucet.
Jimmy, If the Moen faucet froze and cracked the area between the handles in the rear it can be fixed. Doesn't look too nice but will save cost of new faucet.
I roughed up the chrome plating, ground a slight depression around the crack, filled it with JB Weld and then placed a thin piece of aluminum over the crack and held it in place with screw type radiator hose clamps. I left the clamps in place but I probably could have removed them once the JB Weld set up.
You are not the only one to forget that there is still water in that faucet.
Gary B
So far the damage is the faucet , pump and two fittings , they think the monoblock and tank are ok but want to retest in morning before it goes to chassis shop
If I have dodged the bullit , it's a lesson learned
Always winterize early and if caught in freeze situation heaters in wet bay and pump bay .
Any suggestions on heaters ?
Lasko My Heat Personal Heater, 200 watts, they are small and has a fan. They work great. can be found at WalMart or Home Depot and other places $18 to $22.
I use, thermo cubes that plug into short extension cords, so the cubes lay on the floor. Then I plug 200 watt personal heaters into the cubes. The heaters are in plastic covers, but make enough heat to warm and hold temps so far down to 10 degrees so far. We have one in each side compartments for the waterheater pump side and the service bay side.
With remote temp senders that I read inside, I can be happy and know things are working, without opening the bays. Then I can save propane and use the park electric. We use ceramic space heaters in the saloon and the bath areas, and our dual control electric blanket.
We had a night in 10 degree temps and blowing snow on the Freightliner service bay lot last February in Kansas City. I started the genny, and we were warm and happy all night as the trucks came and went for service. But we and everything was warm.
Just a note on the ice line , the trace heat line is to stop the freezer freezing the line it is not to protect it from external drop in temp !!
Just a note on the ice line , the trace heat line is to stop the freezer freezing the line it is not to protect it from external drop in temp !!
Jimmy,
You may find this thread useful.
Rich
Camping in Cold Weather-Long but hopefully useful (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=19903.0)