Hi,
My husband, David (Kb0zke), asked me to post this since he's working right now. We have a leak in our hot water heater. Can anyone tell what bolt is inside the white circle? He's concerned that messing with it might make matters worse.
~Jo Ann
Sorry that the pic posted upside down. I tried to repost, but it still went upside down.
JoAnn, That is the drain plug for the hot water heater. It looks like it will be a bear to remove, probably have to break it out with pliers then pick out the threaded pieces left.
When replaced do not use a metal plug, a nylon is best and sometimes you can find a PVC with the right threads.
While you have it out clean the tank thoroughly, use a long 1/4 inch tube on the end of a water hose to spray inside , I will bet that the tank is full of white lime deposits. Be sure to clean out tank real well or you will be taking screens off faucets to clean the stuff out.
Gary B
As Gary says that is the drain plug. Yes, originally plug is plastic. That looks like a brass one. It might have a zinc sacrificial anode attached on the inside of the plug. Some thing they are good to use others do not. Attwood advises against using an anode. This plug is what you pull to rinse out the tank which should be done annually.
A leak could be either pipe or hose connections or the tank wall might have corroded through - a real possibility if the tank is original. I had to change mine out (tank wall corrosion) when it was about 15 years old.
Where is the leak? There is a pressure relief valve also near that plug. It is designed to leak if the water expands while heating. They do fail. Could that be the source of your leak?
I think I would plan on simply replacing the entire water heater. It's a relatively low-cost item, and one you begin to "disturb" items of a certain age, it's generally better to just replace them.
I just looked at it again. It is plastic or nylon. The leak has stopped, for now. Thank you for your responses. I'm sure David will check things out further and post about what he finds.
Yes, an ATWOOD water heater (that is what Foretravel used) use a nylon drain plug. An old one like that is likely to break when you try to remove it. Not a big deal. Go to Home Depot/Lowes and get a square shaped sprinkler head remover tool. It will fit into the opening left if the head of the nylon plug breaks off and allows you to twist it out. Use white vinegar to dissolve the minerals in the threads. If they are really in bad condition, CAREFULLY use a metal pipe thread to chase the threads (the water heater is aluminum, so be careful).
The tank should be flushed and a new Atwood plug installed annually. The plugs are available at any RV store.
The photo suggests it has been a LONG time since the water heater was serviced/plug replaced.
If your water heater is only a propane fired heater, it might be a great time to replace the nylon plug with the correct Hot Rod electric element. My 93 U225 was only motoraid, and propane, till I added the electric rod upgrade.
I completely agree with adding electric water heating but given what appears to be the condition of the water heater my choice would be to completely replace it with a new upgraded unit.
I'm kind of leaning toward a complete replacement, too. I'd love to switch to an Aqua Hot system, but since I haven't won the lottery that won't be happening. I do like the idea of a dual (120VAC/propane) unit. I'll be doing some research over the next few days.
Have any of you had a water heater with a standing pilot instead of electronic ignition? How well did it work? I've seen the same water heater available both ways in RV catalogs.
I have had the old pilot light model, and in the warm summer weather, the water stayed warm, without help sometimes all day. Units are great till you awake in the morning, jump into the shower, and while waiting for hot water, find out the pilot went out sometime after you went to bed. So then you get to get dressed, or not and go outside to relight the pilot, and wait for the water to heat. Cheaper unit, but not better for me.
The only problem I have with the electronic ignition water heater is when it fails to ignite, usually while I'm in the shower. I look out in the kitchen and the red light is on. I go out to the water heater and pull the wires off and put them back on again and it lights right up and runs great for a few more weeks, until the next time it fails to light. I was thinking the standing pilot model would be more reliable in terms of staying lit. I'd really like to have a water heater switch in the bathroom. I haven't fully investigated yet, but there are a bunch of unused wires under the bathroom sink and it's likely some of them are for a water heater switch... and please get dressed before going out to light the pilot, just saying :D
We moved into our coach in February, using the coach for everything BUT water-related stuff. I had the hot water heater on, but sometimes it would not keep the water hot overnight. For the past six weeks we have been living completely in the coach and the hot water heater has never failed to provide hot water. I wonder if use has something to do with it.
I did a bit of looking for replacement water heater today. I think I have an Atwood 6 gallon propane unit with direct spark ignition. I'd like to add electric heating as an option. I know that would mean I would have to add another switch somewhere inside the coach, but I think I can handle that.
First question: Is it possible to go up to a 10 gallon unit, or should I stick with a 6 gallon one?
Second question: Which Atwood unit should I use?
Third question: Is this really a do-it-yourself project or should I pay someone who really knows what they are doing who can get the job done quickly?
Fourth question: What about a tankless unit? I haven't found any electric/propane units in a very quick search, and the propane ones aren't for RV use.
I believe you could go with a 10-gallon unit if there's the physical space. I have no idea whether or not there is.
I would consider replacement a DIY project for me, but I don't know your skill level. It's typically not a complicated job if one has the basic skills.
I've read mixed reviews about tankless units for RVs, and so (since I think they cost significantly more) I would be hesitant to recommend one.
I would suggest, another unit like you have, motor aid and propane as a minimum, easy to replace. But better is an upgrade to the more expensive 3 way, with electric heating. Then add the new power run, and remote switch.
On demand units are getting better, but are dependent on water flow rates. The flow rate determines the output temps, and with a cycling of the pump, or campground pressure supply different things can happen.
We have on demand at home, and it is the greatest.
Dave, I had forgotten about the motor aid feature. Is that going to be a problem? I'm definitely thinking that electric and propane is the way to go, and if I can also have the motor aid that is a plus.
I haven't started tearing into what I have yet, so perhaps someone who has already done this can chime in and tell me how the motor aid connects to the hot water heater. I think I read somewhere that it is just a section of tubing that is in contact with the hot water tank. The question, then, is whether that is something that can be added to any new hot water heater or whether it requires a specific unit with that extra bit of tubing attached at the factory. I would assume that I could order the proper unit directly from Foretravel.
David,
I think acousticart was the one that just replaced his during his revamp of his basement. I thought I could find his post but no luck. He may chime in on this.
Pamela
Barry's site info show that your 93 U300 has motor-aid. If that is true, then you will have to remove the two coolant hoses from the old water heater and re-install them on the new unit. Atwood makes all the different choices, it is just money, to go from 2 way or 3 way. Why not reach up behind the tank, or use a mirror and confirm you have the black coolant hoses, in addition to the supply fresh water hoses?
Thanks, Dave. I'm pretty sure I do have the motor-aid feature, since there is a valve with a black hose attached to it that goes up into the tank area. Looks like Wednesday is going to be the warmest day this week, with light snow tomorrow and Monday, so I'll see what I can find Wednesday without destroying anything.
Chiming in... That is correct. On the Atwood at least, there is a section of tubing welded to the back of the tank on the bottom rear surface under the rigid styrofoam insulation. A note on the insulation as shipped from the factory: It is two halves of a shell with large gaps around the openings where the fittings and electrical hook up to the tank. By all accounts, the rigid styrofoam insulation works better than the older style with cardboard and fiberglass, but I felt I could improve on the way it came. So I filled gaps with expanding polyurethane foam and taped seams with aluminum HVAC seam tape. I then took some recycled denim insulation with reflective foil on both sides and wrapped it around the back where the plastic J box with the relay wiring is. Here is a picture of the model number label, as well as a couple of pictures of the insulation. You can see the motoraide tubing nipples in the one picture before the foil faced insulation went on (the water heater is laying on its side). Our coach came with a 3 way, so the engine coolant loop was already there and would likely be the most challenging part of adding the 3 way. It came with a single gate valve, but I replaced it with two ball valves to make it easier to service. I also added two valves to bypass the potable water side of the water heater to bypass it if necessary.
Don
I thought a '93 U300 would have a 10 gallon water heater. Maybe I'm wrong. The model number (if you can find it on your old unit) indicates the gallons. Don's is GCH10 with 10 indicating gallons. A 6 gallon will be a GCH6. Another way to determine is to lookup the size of each and you will find the 10 gallon is just taller and then compare to your current unit.
Dave, I'm pretty sure mine is a 6 gallon. I found that there is a 6 gallon direct replacement with a 10 gallon equivalent output that should fit right in the same opening. It was at PPL Motorhomes in Houston. I am still waiting for my 21 year old water heater to give me trouble so I didn't buy one. I do drain and clean mine each year and I did have to replace the pressure relief valve due to an occasional leak but it still works great. We just turn it on 15 minutes before use and never run out of hot water. Since we constantly run out of our water tank we are very conservative in water use when showering so those that like long showers might prefer the 10 gallon equivalent tank.
Oh, it does have the motor aide system.
Yes, I have a 6-gallon tank. I just came in from changing the nylon plug. The old one turned out quite easily, which makes me think that maybe it somehow came loose. There was no indication of any teflon tape on the old plug. I put teflon tape on the plug I put back in.
It seems to take a long time to get all of the air out of the lines. Maybe I'm just a bit impatient, but I would think that it shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to get a good flow of water.
Due to the cold temperatures I decided that I would just change the nylon plug now and then replace the whole hot water heater later, possibly at MOT.