I have a 95 U320 and would like to add some accent light along the Cabinets on both sides. Has anyone done something like this using led strip lights? If so, please post some pictures and include what type you used. I'm open to ideas. I think it would really enhance the interior. My interior colors are greys, black and current lights are a nickle finish. Some of you have done some beautiful things with your coaches and this site is always full of great ideas.
Hey Joe...
LED lighting is pretty easy to add nywhere you want. You just need to figure out how to get inside the cabinets, find the wires and hook them up.
LED strip lights come on rolls, 16 ft or so (5 meters). They range in price from less than a buck a foot to almost $10. You can get warm white (more like incandescent) or cool white (a more blue color). Many like warm white. Some like cool. I use warm inside and cool in the basement bays. Strips come in waterproof or not waterproof. Waterproof works anywhere so that is what I have been using. Connectors are different for each type. Using one type means only one kind of connectors. Most strips have a self stick backing (some brands self stick stuff works better than others). If the surface is clean and the sticky stuff is good they will adhere well.
More LED chips per foot mean more light. All of these can be put on dimmers.
I also use aluminum LED strip light channels and covers (surface mount or corner mount) that come from LeeValley.com. They have many of the LED lighting supplies as well. Amazon and EBay are also good sources.
I put lights in the overhaed and kitchen cbinets. The power is switched and most are also controlled by a small magnetic proximity switch so that if power is on the lights come on and off when the door is opened or closed.
Wiring is small and easy to conceal. You have to pay attention to plus and minus. One way they work, the other they don't.
I have replaced all of the flourescents with LED strip lighting as well. More strips, more light.
I have replaced all of the round ceiling halogen lights with LEDs as well.
Roger
Thanks for showing the good-looking images of your LED cabinet lighting. The new look is crisp and sharp while still easy on the eyes. The folks at FT seem to look at lighting like I do: A little light in the right spot can do a lot. Thanks.
Roger thanks for the pictures and the response. I'll check out leevalley. I plan to put them on the front face of the cabinets on both sides in the living area up near the top to hopefully shine uplight on the roof.
Very useful information. Thanks!
On my 2001 U320 there is rope lighting under the edge of the counters in the bath kitchen and salon countertops; most have burned out despite being replaced totally by FT in 2009. Are these rope lights 12 volts and easily replaced by the strip LED's offered from LeeValley.com?
I have looked under the countertop edges and I think you can just pull out the rope lights, clean out the groove and stick in the self adhesive strip lights as they are. Stickiness varies from one roll to the next. The cheaper ones seem like they don't stick as well. When that happens I just remove the old stuff, clean it off with goo gone or something like that and replace it with a 3/8" wide piece of double sided thin carpet tape. If I were doing the undercounter lights I would get a dimmer for them. A remote control dimmer is pretty cheap, less than $10.
They make all sorts of connectors for the strip lights. A double ended connector can make getting around a tight corner pretty easy. They actually make right angle connectors too. Waterproof and non waterproof strips take different connectors. Single color strips have two pin connectors, multi color strips have four. If your strips use the 5050 LED elements, get connectors for those LED types.
Lee Valley is a great place for many things. Their LED supplies have grown over the last year. What I have been getting from them are aluminium channels (flat surfce mount and corner mount) into which the LED light stips fit. They have white plastic covers that snap in place on the channels. They have clips that you screw on to the ceiling or edge of the cabinet and then the aluminium channels just snap into the clips. I just make an assembly with a strip cut to the length I want with connectors, a channel and cover to fit, snap them in place and connect the wires (watch plus and minus). 12-18" is plenty for most cabinets.
Hope this helps. Ask more questions if you need more answers. Amazon and EBay are pretty good sources for most of this stuff.
Roger
Roger may I ask what product you used for the cargo bays and how many lumins.
Hi Bruce,
LED lighting upgrades are easy, pretty cheap and make a huge difference in available light level, heat and power used.
I have been using waterproof LED strip lights pretty much everywhere so that only one type
of connectors is needed. There are many choices of suppliers and prices rnge from about $1/ft to $10/ft. My experience has been good so far with the cheaper strips but they have poor adhesive backing. I clean it off and use a 3/8" wide strip of double sided carpet tape. There are screw-on clips to hold them us as well.
LED strip lights come with 5050 LED chips or 3528 chips. The 5050 are bigger, put out more light, use more power and more heat. (These are very cool compared to halogen bulbs). They come in warm white (lower Kelvin temperature, more like incandescent) and cool white (higher Kelvin temp, more blue-white color). Warm white is preferred by more folks than cool white. Cool white puts out about 10-15% more lumens per ft than warm white. I don't think they use that much extra power to get the more lumens. It is something about the chips.
All of these strips can be controlled with dimmers (huge range in price on these). You can get red/green/blue strips and mke any color you want. You need different (4pin) connectors for these and special controllers. Single color strips use 2 pin connectors.
Inside I have been using Lee Valley aluminum channels, mounting clips and diffusers with the LED stips. It is a nice clean look and with the clips they are easier to install. They cost about $3/ft. Most of the interior cabinet lights are 12-18" long.
In the basement compartments iI have been using the waterproof 5050 LED strips, replacement carpet tape and the clips. I got two rolls of the cool white to compare with the warm white. Cool white seems to work well in the basement comparments where more light is good. One meter of the cool white strips uses about 12 watts and puts out about 320 lumens. I haven't finished all of the compartments yet but am planning on adding them to the engine compartment, the underside of the bed platform, the engine battery compartment, the cave (at least on my coach) where the Aquahot is located and in the generator compartment. As I get older more light is a good thing.
Most of the basement bays have switches that turn on the lights when the door is opened. They work fine. A second switch is needed if you don't want the lights on at all.
I use the double end connectors. These are good for connecting one strip to another (going around a corner) or just cut them in half for two wiring attachments. They make single ended connectors with longer wires and just about every imaginable sort of connector.
These are +/- strips. You can cut them to length about every 2 or 3 inches. + and - are marked on the strip. If you connect them incorrectly they just don't work, it doesn't seem to damage them. Reverse connections and try again.
One of the best changes we did was to replace all of the brass trimmed halogen ceiling lights with ITC LED lights (in the list below). 3" ones were a perfect fit. They come with spring clip mounts or screw mounts. We added more in the underside of the cabinet over the passengers seat and in the bottom of the kitchen cabinet where there was no ligh. We put in the 4.5" lamps over the table. Most of these are on dimmers. The small ones are around $13 at Amazon and the bigger ones about $18.
All of the flourescents have been replaced with LED strips. Put in as many as you want to get the level of light you want.
Probably way more than you asked for but I have learned by making mistakes, wiring wrong, ordering the wrong parts. Maybe this makes it easier for you. Send me an email if you need anything else.
Roger
Here is my list...
Led lighting parts
Bathroom light bulbs
Pack of TWO (2), LED 12V White Omni Bulb BA15S Clear Cover - Led Household Light (http://amazon.com/gp/product/B007M48PH2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Wall lamp bulbs
Amazon.com: Pack of TWO (2), LED 3W 12V White Omni Bulb BA15D 1142 1076 Brake (http://amazon.com/Pack-White-Omni-BA15D-Brake/dp/B00KAG4XWU/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1410910570&sr=1-5)
Proximity switches (on/off when doors open or close)
NC NO Door Window Contact Magnetic Reed Switch Alarm 3W 10-20mm - Switch Plates (http://amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0BTTBU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Double end connectors
Amazon.com: ZITRADES ® 2013 Waterproof Version 10pcs 2Pin LED 5050 Single (http://amazon.com/ZITRADES-Waterproof-Version-Single-Connector/dp/B00EI6GAAQ/ref=pd_sim_hi_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=13NGAC94C50ENPKMCW9H)
Warm white 5M 5050 LED strips
SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT 5M SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs Warm White LED Flash Strip (http://amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Lighting/dp/B00DTOAWE8/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1417186637&sr=1-2&keywords=supernight+5050+waterproof+warm+white)
LeeValley LED strip light channels (you don't need end caps)
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=71702&cat=1 (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=71702&cat=1),43349
LED strip light Clips
ZITRADES 15pcs/lot soft Silicon Mounting Bracket clip for DC 12V 5050SMD 10mm (http://amazon.com/ZITRADES-Silicon-Mounting-Bracket-5050SMD/dp/B00HQEY7H0/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=05PDSFYW90RRCRN7SVA2)
ITC Ceiling lights (3" & 4.5"). These are the same lights that FT is using on their new coaches. Search for ITC-RV. Lots of stuff. Amazon has lots of it.
Products (http://www.itc-rv.com/products)
Amazon.com: ITC (69231BNSWR-3K-DB) Radiance LED Ceiling Light: Automotive (http://amazon.com/ITC-69231BNSWR-3K-DB-Radiance-Ceiling-Light/dp/B00J5JJDN2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1417187956&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Itc+led+ceiling+lights)
Amazon.com: ITC (69240NS-21-3K-DB) 4.5" LED Overhead Light: Automotive (http://amazon.com/ITC-69240NS-21-3K-DB-4-5-Overhead-Light/dp/B00J5IOS9C/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=10627R0A9C04H4GN008A)
Excellent report Roger, sincere thx for taking the time to share with the group. It'll be my next project. Hope the thxgiving holiday was an enjoyable one for you and the family.
Roger,
Thanks for the info. I really like the cabinet lighting.
Jerry
As long as you would be adding LED lights I recommend adding some in the engine compartment. The lights deter the little nighttime critters.
Great idea, and it's now on my list, but I will also install in the gen compartment, which looks to be a nice cozy place for critters.
Anybody come up with a good replacement for the ceiling rope / mood lighting
Roger - this is spectacular! You have gone above and beyond to explain this in such great detail. What a resourceful thread! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
If you have a chance, would you mind sharing a picture of your wall lamps, bathroom lights above the mirror, and the ITC lighting? I am very intrigued with this idea.....
Dave, when I removed the old black insulation from the engine compartment I replaced it with EZ Kool insulation. It really lightened up the engine compartment. I had a leftover LED light strand and already had a 12V power source in the light that came in the compartment so I just tapped into it, took out the bulb and used the light fixture switch. I can put the bulb back in if I desire. I also, after raising the bed, installed the LED light strand about 6" below the bottom of the bed, on the front and pass side of the engine compartment housing. I did use a blob of Shoe Goo every 10-12" in case the 3M adhesive didn't hold in the heat.
Never thought of the generator compartment. Great idea!!
Hi Amanda,
Here is a link to a great source for 12v ready RV lighting. We are working on swapping brass for brushed nickel over time. Just a preference. Both look nice.
R.B. Gustafson Corp. (http://www.gustafsonlighting.com/xcart/home.php)
I have attached pictures of lighting.
Wall lamp first.
Swapped the incandescent bulbs for LED. You need the BA15D base and the bulbs for type 1076 or 1142. The base number tells how many contacts there are and how the pins are set on the sides. They type determine how the bulbs function in the sockets. We are using two bulbs in the LR and only one in the BR. These are warm white color.
Bathroom vanity fixtures.
These bulbs are LED bulbs encased in a plastic cover. We figured in the bathroom with moisture, maybe better. Two on each side seems like enough light for us for now. We might not like what we see with three on each side.
Surface mounted lights, 3" and 4.5"
These ITC LED lights are the same ones FT is using. I got my first ones from them to try out. With a MC discount they were a bit cheaper than Amazon on the smaller ones and a bit more on the bigger ones. Shipping tipped the scale for me. They have removable frosted glass diffusers and mount up snug to the ceiling. On the bottom of the wood cabinets I put in a vary thin shim th raise up the inside bottom shelf about 1/16" for a snug fit. Almost all of ours are on dimmers. We used the bigger ones (340 lumens, 8.5 watts) over the table and on the bottom of the kitchen cabinets where the was no light. Huge impact!
The last picture is the surface mounted lights in the ceiling along the LR passenger's side overhead cabinets and the undercabinet lights on the driver's side bedroom overhead.
It is hard to see in photos what these look like and what a difference they make. When we first did the LR ceiling they seemed so bright compared to the halogen lamps, not any more. 60-70 % less power used is huge and they are much cooler. We will be in TX, AZ and NM from January to April. Maybe some show and tell.
Please feel free to ask if there are questions. These are pretty doable projects for almost anyone that can have a pretty big impact.
Roger
Hello Roger,
Is there an easy LED replacement for the fluorescent lights?
One of mine is making a buzzing noise at times and is very annoying and I would like
to replace all of them with LED's.
Thanks--Jim
Jim, several of us have just taken the guts out of the 12V fluorescent fixtures and put in LED strips. Nothing to it. I wondered about some of our fixtures, since the bulbs were 120VAC. It turns out that those fixtures actually have small inverters built into them, so that the power to each fixture is 12VDC and then the circuitry in the fixture turns that into 120VAC for the bulb. I just removed all of that circuitry, as well as the bulbs, and put in two strips of LEDs. At first I was removing the tombstones at each end, but by the time I finished changing all of the fixtures I wasn't bothering. It was more work to take them out than to just cut the wires to them.
David,
I will take apart the fluorescent and put in the LED's--sounds easy enough.
Thank You--Jim
Jim,
Carefully pop the plastic covers off and cut the incoming 12v wires, leave plenty. There are usually four screws that hold the lamp fixture in place. Then the whole thing comes out somyouncan work on it in an easy position. I removed all of the guts including the bulb posts. Use a drill to rmove the pop rivets. Once all of that is out you can figure put the best way to wind as much as you want in the fixture. The strips don't really bend much so use double ended connectors to make tight turns. I have a small plug in 12 volt power supply and I check to make sure everthing is working as I go, after every connection
Each foot of the strips has about 19 LED chips. I put about 60 LEDs in the LR lights over the couch. I used 90 over the kitchen sink nd about 45 in the BR. In my coach the fixtures are about 6 inches wide by 16" long. There are two double length pairs, just use more. Your fixtures may be different sizes. It is easier to add more lights while the fixture is on the bench or picnic table or where ever this happens. You can always take some out.
Hope this helps. Please ask if you need help.
Roger
Jim, I have used the strips and also LED replacement tubes. They are an exact match for the OEM fluorescent tubes, pin and all. The neat thing about them is after they are in you can rotate them to the right position.
I looked at the LED replacement bulbs for flourescent tubes. They were close to $30 each. Maybe they are less now. It is an easy way to make the switch but pricey. I imagine they are dimable but don't know. I was thinking about one of these for the outside light over the door, one light i haven't done yet.
Roger
I've been meaning to post my LED light upgrade for my bays for a while now. To be honest for over a year! If I could find my pictures I'd post the fluorescent to LED upgrade I did a couple of years ago but I can't find em'! I'm sure they will turn up someday...
I followed in the footsteps of Pierce Stewart who blazed the trail in using the LED strips found on ebay. White 5M 3528 SMD 600 LED Flexible Strip Light 120 LEDs Meter 16ft | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/White-5M-3528-SMD-600-LED-Flexible-Strip-Light-120-Leds-Meter-16ft-/371194145075?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item566ce52933) Every time I check these keep getting cheaper. Last time I purchased they were $11 down to $7 now with free shipping! When you buy get as many as you think you will ever use. Otherwise the supplier may have changed and you'll get a slightly different color no matter what color they call it in the ad. :)
To install the strips in the bays I wanted a pretty sturdy mounting surface and finally decided on 3/4" aluminum. Shop Steelworks 6-ft x 3/4-in Aluminum Solid Angle at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_215961-37672-11349_0__?productId=3053623&Ntt=) It's shiny to reflect the light, reasonable cost, readily available, and easy to work with. I measured the length of the bay and cut the angle iron to fit.
The main pain using the LED strips is connecting power. The little copper dots on the strip are fragile and require a little practice to get right. I use 22ga solid wire and a pencil soldering iron to attach them. Tinning the wire helps a little but I still screwed up a few when I was doing it. When I did I just moved up to the next set of dots. :) Since the connections are fragile you don't want the wires moving. Pierce's solution was to use European Style Terminal Strips. I found them at Radio Shack. 12-Position European-Style Mini Terminal Strip - Radioshack (http://www.radioshack.com/12-position-european-style-mini-terminal-strip/2740680.html#.VHvdM6TF920) I cut a 2 terminal section from the strip and 5 minute epoxied it to the angle iron. Then I laid the LED strip on the inside of the angle iron. Then soldered the wires to the strip and attached to the terminal block. (see pics)
At this point I used my handy dandy 12v testing tool to check that everything is working. (see pics) I then clean up the bay roof where I plan to put the lights and put heavy duty double sided tape on the the outside of the angle iron and stuck it to the top of the bay. I then use some flat aluminum to make a mounting bracket for the plunger switches that turn the lights off when the door closes. Had to redneck engineer a way to put a 90º bend in the flat aluminum. (see pics) I found the plunger switches at Northwest RV Supply in Eugene, OR. Finding them was the most difficult part of the upgrade! Mine are similar to these. Plunger Switch: nwrvsupply.com (http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/90155.html) (see pics) In the pics of my switches due to the lighting you can't see the black plastic plunger. Use your imagination. :) I ran a hot wire from the existing light in the bay to the positive side of the new light bar and the ground goes thru the plunger switch.
Thats it! Turn night into day! In the wet bay I installed 2 light bars. One across the top and the other on the lower right side to light up the clear 90º I use to monitor the dump. No flashlight needed ever! In the campground I get ooos... and ahs.... whenever I open my bays at night. :)
This is almost the exact same method I used for the fluorescent lights. Just didn't use the angle iron.
Roger I ordered some of the waterproof LEDs and didn't like them as much. Didn't put out as much light and were much harder to work with.
see ya
ken
More pics...
see ya
ken
Nice job, Ken.
Ken, nice job on the LED bay install. Looks much brighter than what is in mine.
Roger and Richard--thanks for the info on the Fluorescent to LED upgrade.
Should be fairly straight forward once I open them up.
Thanks-- Jim
You've seen people setting next to their coach watching the Bay TV. well I caught Ken setting in his lawn chair admiring his beautiful LED lit Bay. It's prettier than a TV.
I do have to admit that I am easily entertained. :)
see ya
ken
Aren't we all, at times.
Roger
OK LED strip light experts I have a question.
Can an LED light strip with self adhesive go around a rounded 90 degree cabinet corner, like in the low quality pic below of my current 3/8" non-LED rope light? Or do you need to splice the LED strips and use double end connectors to get around each corner? I guess it is the same question asked two different ways.
I don't see why not. That corner has a nice radius, so there isn't a huge strain on anything. A sharp 90-degree corner would be a different animal.
I've tried it and didn't work so well. Tends to curl up.
I would splice two pieces together.
If the strips do not want to stay stuck...I have used a small dab of silicone adhesive along each side of the strip at 2 or 3 inch intervals. Along with original adhesive this seems to work.
The crimp on connectors usually work pretty well but I have had some that didn't. If they don't connect well the first time they likely won't at all. Soldering is a good choice for going around corners where the end to end length is short. If you are going back and forth in a gutted flourescent fixture for example, the 180° turns work well if the are soldered.
Generally, I have been removing the adhesive from the less expensive LED strips. They just don't have an adequate long term stick. Goo Gone or acetone seems to work. Then I use double stick carpet tape cut to 3/8" widths. This holds well.
I also found silicone straps with a hole at each end made for mounting these strips. Two small screws hold the strap that holds the LED strips in place.
Get an electronics soldering iron with a small tip and some very fine solder. The iron and solder I have is for connecting wires to strain gages.
Practice makes perfect. LED lights are very nice.
Roger
Thanks everyone. You have given me some options for tackling this. The burnt out lights are getting to me so it is time to experiment.
One other question. My bedroom ceiling inset measures about 19 ft around give or take an inch. The LED strips I've seen are only 16.4 ft long. So, any problems with splicing on another 3 ft with all 19 ft of LEDs on the same 12v set of wires?
Good Morning Mark,
LED strip lights are 5M (about 16.5') for a reason. Voltage drops along the length of the strip. Hooking two together would cause too big of a voltage drop to properly operate the lights at the far end. The solution is easy. For your 19' application use two 9 1/2' strips connected in parallel, each connected to your +12v and ground wires. If you want a dimmer it can go before the strip lights.
There are different kinds of strip lights. Many use the 5050 elements, good for higher output. You can also find the 3528 elements. They are smaller and put out less light but campn be packed cleser together on the strip. So for accent lighting you may be want to look for 3528 (3.5mm x 2.8mm) that are spaced further apart. Look for the lumens/length spec. If you want that warmer comforting glow use warm white color. The cool white will look more blue, even toward purple.
You can get four color strips and with a color controller you can get any color you want. There are simple, inexpensive controllers at will make the single or multi color strips dance in an infinite number of pattern. I have dimmers for single colors that have a key fob like controller. These are about $6.
You can get any of this stuff on Amazon.
Light 'er up!
Roger
Thanks Roger. That is so obvious to those who have been there and done that or who have some electrical knowledge. All I've done so far is rewire the basement fluorescent fixtures to LED. I had to start somewhere...
Thanks Steve for the technical bits. I probably would just add three more feet but it may be just as easy to use two pieces of equal length. I have seen some instances where the resistors get hot enough to discolor whatever they are mounted in. I've replaced all of those. The inexpensive strips I have been getting recently seem to be OK except for the self stick tape.
I build a lot of cabinetry with LED lighting inside. I use much more expensive strip lighting and the manufacturer's power supplies and length recommendations. I have also seen automotive application constant 12v power supplies from what ever input voltage it has. These might be nice if the strips you have are very sensitive to voltage.
Roger
OK, so after Steve's post I feel especially stupid. Maybe I'll just use a flashlight propped up in a corner for mood lighting. :(
Or candles. If I spend too much time thinking about this stuff it never gets done. I appreciate Steve's detail and it is good stuff. I have abetter understanding of why some cheap stuff fails. I just hook em up, make sure they work and am happy with the results.
Roger
Adding a couple of shots from my LED upgrade progress. Right now, every upper cabinet had the lights installed. It will be so nice not to have to turn on lights just to go in a cabinet and retrieve items.
I used the LED tubes for all of the fluorescent replacements, and used the strips and the Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=71702&cat=1,43349 corner-mount channel and diffusers for the insides of each cabinet. Probably the most time consuming part (aside from soldering and wiring strip lights, of course) was disassembling and reassembling the cabinet floors and walls in order to get to the power, and nicely hide the wiring. Had to notch out some sub framing under the floors of the cabinets and notch the corners of certain floor boards. Probably the most difficult replacement was the porch light. Due to all the weatherproofing it was difficult to work on. So that was the last light to be changed. The basements and engine compartment were done using the angle aluminum method as described above. The engine compartment is now on a timer at night in order to keep critters away.
Lee Valley Channel Cabinet Installations.
I can see I've got some evening reading queued up. :-) Thanks for bumping this to the top. Now that all the puck lights are switched to LED, the rope lights are next on my list... Love Lee Valley, we used to get all sorts of fabulous woodworking and gardening products and supplies. :-)
James
For our "mobile" applications, I would highly recommend LED lights with a built in constant current power supply. It is the only way to insure long life of the devices with variable voltage input, which we have with our battery chargers and alternators. Most 12 volt LEDs have an absolute max voltage rating of 15VDC. LED Wholesalers have a unique strip light that operates from 10-30VDC, comes with it's own mounting clips, is very attractive, extremely bright, and can be plugged together to form a single long fixture. Take a look at their 1988WH, 24" 8 watt. I installed some of these in my 1990 U280 and they have been extremely good and cost effective. They will provide constant light from 10-30 volt.
For our "mobile" applications, I would highly recommend LED lights with a built in constant current power supply. It is the only way to insure long life of the devices with variable voltage input, which we have with our battery chargers and alternators. Most 12 volt LEDs have an absolute max voltage rating of 15VDC. LED Wholesalers have a unique strip light that operates from 10-30VDC, comes with it's own mounting clips, is very attractive, extremely bright, and can be plugged together to form a single long fixture. Take a look at their 1988WH, 24" 8 watt. I installed some of these in my 1990 U280 and they have been extremely good and cost effective. They will provide constant light from 10-30 volt.
Or if the strip has "constant" current resistors in place, you can then use a step/up step/down buck constant voltage supply as long as its capable of providing the required total current at 12V. If those strips are provided a constant 12V, the existing resistors will drive the appropriate current in the loops providing the constant light output across the range of voltages and the expected LED life. Can also get away with a basic step down so the strips never see >12V but may see less.
Ohhh must go look, thanks for the info!
The strip lights from LED Wholesales is equipped with not just resistors, but with a true solid state constant current power supply utilizing sub miniature integrated circuits and transistors. It provides the proper voltage and current to the LED array regardless of input voltage as long as it stays between 10 and 30VDC. Pretty cool for $24 per 24"!
I did a search on "1988WH" and variations on LEDwholesalers.com]LED Wholesalers (http://shop.ledwholesalers.com/index.php?route=common/home), but got no results. Could you provide a link?
Thanks, Don
Too bad not something like that for longer lighting needs like around the ceiling rings...
Their search engine isn't very good. Look under "Rigid and Under Cabinet" and you will find them.
Don, was able to locate them. Interesting, might use them for the bay's, or the ones that Home2 from Hastings posted.
I have had some strip lights (on a spool) be more sensitive to higher voltages than others. The ones I have been getting from Amazon seem pretty durable other than the rather dodgy so-called 3M adhesive backing (likely fake). I haven't had any get over headed and the resistor parts discolor. I did get some LEDs that came in plastic strips of three elements with wires to the next three and so on. Every one of these is getting dark resistors and the plastice parts are distorting and cracking. I am replacing them all with strips. I have also started soldering connections wherever I need to. The crimp on commectors work most of the time but they seem to be a one shot deal. I think it is the little pads on the strips not the connectors. Soldered connections have never failed.
In any case, it is probably a good idea to check your strips from time to time to make sure they are OK. These rolls are getting so cheap that replacing a section is no big deal.
A built in power supply in a prepackaged strip probably adds a lot to the cost. You can probably find a ~12v to 12v constant voltage power supply pretty cheap if you look. I have a small 110v to 12v power supply from something that I use for wiring and testing as I go before hooking into the coach power.
Better quality strip lights are generally better able to handle the wider range of voltages in an automotive application.
Roger
Linkable Low Profile Aluminum LED Rigid Strip for Display Case and Under... (http://shop.ledwholesalers.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=394&search=1988)
Available in 12", 20" and 24"
Steve,
Those are the ones I used. I have some applications that are linked (plugged together to form one fixture) to form a 6' light---- been working great for a year with no issues. Very bright!