We decided to make the trip from PA to Florida with a leaking front passenger inner seal. It got bad pretty quickly and I had to add oil once. I made LIBERAL use of the retarder on all stops and successfully avoided any kind of fire. But. Now I need it fixed. I emailed both Paul Yasbeck and Parliament Motorcoach with no response from either. Can anyone make any other recommendations for *competent* service in the area (south of Tampa, Bradenton, etc)? I'm really looking for someone who will follow the stemco protocol on setting preload. It's still driveable sort of.
I'd be willing to take it on myself if someone had the property and capabilities to raise the wheels and get the wheel off. I actually have the tools to raise the motorhome and remove the wheel but I'd love someone experienced to go through the ropes with me. I have a 12 ton jack, 2 6 ton jack stands, safety blocks, 4 foot cheater pipe, breaker bar and socket large enough to fit the wheel nuts. I'd be willing to pay whatever I would normally pay for labor on the job to whoever is helping because it would be well worth it for the experience.
All suggestions welcome.
Call Parliament, select option 3, leave message with Chris Avila and Dave in service will take care of you and your issued. They are busy. For good reason.
Best way to reach Paul is his direct cell line....813-382-0859, he doesn't always get his e mails right away. He's also extremely busy but very responsive....gives great attention to detail.
You will need a dial indicator to properly set end-play.
I normally wouldn't recommend precision tools from HF, but a harbor freight one will work for this task and is cheap. By the book requires a dial indicator.
I won't get into the long discussion about just doing it by feel to ensure a little preload for better steering, but this thread has more information and I think has the merritor instructions: front wheel bearing preload? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=21982.msg165441)
front wheel bearing preload? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=21982.msg165364#msg165364)
Rear axle bearing nut torque (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=21556.msg163929#msg163929)
You seem to be a younger guy with the tools to do the job, though I would go get an impact wrench that you can run off of your engines air compressor, so I would do a bit of research (dowload manuals, look at Youtube videos, internet search) and tackle it yourself. I did the rear seal on my FT and despite a bunch of fretting about everything, it was actually pretty simple and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again (which I will eventually be doing since it seems like every one of my brake rotors is warped at least a little).
Maybe take lots of photos and write up afterwards? ;)
Dick
If you know your stemco seal number order the correct installation tool for it they are available online 12 bucks or so. It will keep from damageing the seal putting it in. You will also need a hubcap gasket and hub oil.I like Lucas hub oil myself. Prefill hub before reinstalling and top off to correct level after hubcap is back on.
The correct seals ride on a separately installed metal ring on the spindle itself. Not on the spindle
wheel nut options with video's
second video shows the torqnut application along with synthetic grease
Pro-Torq® Axle Spindle | STEMCO (http://www.stemco.com/product/pro-torz-axle-spindle-nuts/)
Part 1
Stemco Double & Voyager Nut Torque Process w/Seal Installation - Part 1 - (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8-XL4E4m7o)
part 2
Stemco Double & Voyager Nut Torque Process w/Seal Installation - Part 2 - (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsxXhb_KDGU)
Thanks for sharing :) Rick
Here's the procedure mentioned in that video: http://www.triseal.com/old/techbullet/TMC_RP_618.pdf (http://www.triseal.com/old/techbullet/TMC_RP_618.pdf)
Why are you looking to use an RV dealer to work on a truck wheel seal? Truck repair shops often do better work.
Yeah I was actually considering sunstate international in sarasota. They knew exactly what I was talking about and told me "around $200"
That sounds fair. If you use stemco seals they retail for about 45.00 bucks, add hub oil and cleaner 200. is a fair price.
Switch to full synthetic while the assembly is drained
Their quote was actually $200 without parts since I asked them just for the labor costs. So maybe a little more expensive than fair ;) Do you guys think this is a 1 hour labor job?
1 to 1.5 hrs. per side. I do my own on my Peterbilt and not being in a hurry so it might take me 2 hrs per side on the front. Maby a little longer depending how much cleaning i have to do to the hub and brake drum installing new shoes etc,you have disc brakes so hopefully they are not oil soaked and don't need replacing also.Seals are around 45.00 per side and hub oil etc,most shops have some kind of BS enviromental fee and a added miscellanous shop supply fee on top of the labor charge. I was on the road once in La an dhad a front seal go out went to the peterbilt dealer new front shoes seals etc 650.00 and change out the door,I'm still walking bow legged from that one!
$200 plus parts is very fair if they do a good job and know their stuff.
I am leaning towards a truck place like that or cummins because I might be able to get one to cover some of the bill for fixing it. I know I'm making more of an issue of this than it really is but you have to understand that I only very rarely have to deal with any kind of "service professional" and I almost always get really bad results somehow.
How will you get one to cover some of the bill for a normal wear item.
I meant if it explodes on the next trip out.