I blew a wheel seal and I am getting together the tools and parts I need to replace the seals. Does anyone know the axle nut size so I can make sure I have the right socket before I begin. I think I have everything else I need. Hopefully someone has done theirs and knows. Thanks for the help.
Mark
Front or Rear? The front is smaller. When I get down to my RV I'll look at the size of the socket I bought for the rear...I want to say it was around 3.25" or so. Just buy the sheet metal axle socket from NAPA---I think it was $10?!? The front is much smaller.
Most say get the correct seal driver, but I just put it in with a block of wood.
Krush,
I am replacing the front seals. I am using a Stemco Voyager seal so I am going to order the seal tool since they are shaped a little different. The tool is cheap too. I guess most people on here don't do this themselves. If I knew the axle designation I may be able to look up the nut size. Thanks for the info.
Mark
The hub nut socket for my rear axle was a 4", not sure about the front as I've not had to do anything with it yet (I'm sure it will happen sooner or later :'( ).
I linked the Meritor Expressway website parts lookup by axle code in an earlier post but the link doesn't appear to work anymore and I can't figure out how to link the relevant information on their new website.
Meritor Rear Rotor Part Numbers (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=21175.msg157128#msg157128)
If you are able to crawl underneath your FT and get the axle code, I'd email one of the customer service people and see if they can send you the information or give you a link to your axle parts breakdown.
Customer Service (http://www.meritorpartsonline.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CustomerServiceView?catalogId=10051&langId=-1&storeId=10154)
Also, when you go to tighten up the bearings....well just read this: front wheel bearing preload? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=21982.msg165447#msg165447)
Two kinds of seals. One rides directly on the arm. The other green loktites a wear ring on the arm first.
I changed the first that I had installed for the second type.
Don't forget to put a little grease on the seal lip.
Using the stemco voyager you do not have to worry about a wear ring. The seal Itself has that made into it. Very good choice for a seal.
does not show the inner metal wear ring. the oem installation has the wear ring on the arm.
You can also use a socket as a seal installer if you have a set of 3/4" or 1" sockets. I've installed a lot of wheel seals, both grease and oil. It's not real hard, just heavy work and tiresome. Make sure to keep everything clean. A tiny bit of dirt will destroy the seal & the bearings. Observe all safety precautions. A mistake on blocking up the coach may be the last one you will ever make. Make sure the bearing pre-load is correct. Take your time & do it right the first time.
TOM
Thanks everyone for your responses. Regarding the seal installation. The manufacturer says it must be installed dry with no lube. I will make sure to block the coach for safety. Mike Grimes in parts suggested that the Stemco seals were good ones also. The online training video's are very good. I ordered all the seal tools and the hubcap gaskets today. Just need to nail down the socket size I need for the hub nut and make sure I have a torque wrench that goes high enough. My brother is a good mechanic and will be helping me along with my son. My other concern is how hard it is to remove the caliper for hub removal.
Mark
Maz, go to Barry Beams site, he has the Meritor m4 manual listed.
Each front caliper is held on entirely by the two slide pins, IIRC The rears also have a bolted assembly for the spring brake that has to be removed.
The calipers come off fairly easily but do not underestimate the weight of them once that last slide pin has been removed, they are heavy. If you haven't put on a spring kit for your brakes, now would be an excellent time to do it. You'll also find out if you need to replace some of the slide pins and liners.
I didn't see the Stemco Adventurer amongst the wheel seals on the Stemco site, did you perhaps get the Voyager model which was listed for coaches and regional trucks?
Wheel Seals | STEMCO (http://www.stemco.com/products/wheel-end-products/wheel-seals/)
Also, did you look into using the Pro-Torq spindle nuts rather than the old style double nut like we have? In the Voyager seal assembly video, the instructor mentions that our double nut system is obsolete.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8-XL4E4m7o
Robert,
Thanks for the info. You are right I put down Adverturer seal instead of the Voyager. I already corrected it above. I liked the new type nut in the video as well but I didn't know if it would be compatible with my axle. Plus I don't even know the correct size until I get it off. I may try to climb under the coach and see if I can find any axle info on the beam.
Mark
Some info for anyone interested.
Stock seal on my model coach is Meritor A1205N1912
Stemco 383-0136
Seal Tool 551-5346
Hubcap Stemco 4024
You can pull one pin and swing the caliper down, rest it on a jack, then pull the other. I think this is how I did it.
interesting video. the DOT standards that are backable in court if sued was an interesting comment. my memory says my long term rv mechanic preloads the bearing slightly versus the .001-.005 play that the dial indicator method showed.
one is legally certifiable in court the other may well take the steering wander out of the coach.
I think the guy wanted to say tighter myself but any preload would be a long term feel thing. hard to quantify. probably why they use a dial indicator setup.
mine do not run hot at all. not recommending not to adjust these the legal in court way but if my coach after that adjustment wandered I would be tempted to go a bit tighter.
like I said too much of a feel thing I bet. mine steers so well I would be upset if the by the book adjustment caused a dead spot in the steering again and the coach wandered.
maybe why a lot of rv owners talk about constant steering inputs. interesting. all taught to do the defensible adjustment.
the manufacturer cannot be wrong with the demonstrated method. if the coach or truck wanders a bit that is not a addressed issue in the adjustment.
be interesting to do one by the book then take all the play out of it and drive it again.
maybe the lighter front axle weight on the coach makes the wander issue different versus the heavier truck front axle loading?
so many have complained over the years about wander and truck sway issues that it may be the verifiable setting issue.
versus the experience to be able to adjust the bearing for a better wander and truck and wind sway control without damaging the assembly or overheating it?
He mentioned the std several times being back up able in court. does that mean it steers the best in a flat sided rv that the wind pushes around? not necessarily.
for sure my x foretravel mechanic mentioned he preloads the bearing or the coaches wandered too much. I asked him repeatedly to verify that was how he adjusted mine.
I had heard of the .001-.005 long ago by my guy said they wandered if you used that. hundreds of coaches later he does preload them slightly still. no issues. no color change. no wear.
maybe a drive then re adjust thing.
I check mine with an IR gauge and see no heating issues so far and both hubs are the same temp.
cover your self legally was interesting thought. too many lawyers it seems. maybe.
Here is some more info if it may be helpful to anyone.
I did some research on my front axle. It is a Rockwell FG941. It is a 14600 pound axle. According to Stemco's cross reference chart it uses a Pro-Torq 448-4836 axle nut. Pro-Torq nut uses a 2 and a half inch six point socket.
Mark
Mark,
Where on your front axle did you find that info?
Thanks, Don
Don,
The axle model and serial number should be on the front middle of axle-- on a small plate.
Don,
What Brett said Ditto..You beat me to it Brett.
Mark
After crawling under the coach yesterday to get the axle number I noticed the rotor had gear oil all over it. Thus the brake pads have oil all over them too I assume. Anyone know the part number for front pads on a 99 U270?
Mark
Mark, Pads may not have oil on them. Disc brakes are not like drums where oil will be retained in the drum. I would take them apart and look at the pads before I went to the expense of buying new pads.
Gary B
Thanks Gary. I don't know how the pads could be dry with oil on the rotor. I will have to take a closer look.
I noticed these pads on ebay. New Meritor Kit adb Lining KIT15615PM | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/161297835181?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
I wonder if this could be my pads. Need to do some more searching I guess.
Mark
The pads I would think should be solvent cleanable. Metallic compound?
Mark, Check with your local FLEETPRIDE Parts house, their prices are usually pretty good, if not stocked they can get them the next day.
fleetpride truck parts, fl - Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?q=fleetpride+truck+parts%2C+fl&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS599US599&oq=fleetpride+truck+parts%2C+fl&aqs=chrome..69i57.7895j0j8&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8)
They do have JAX location
Jacksonville
150 Ellis Road North
Jacksonville, FL 32254
Mon-Fri: 7:30am - 5:30pm
Toll Free: 800.948.0140
Phone: 904.786.4424
Fax: 904.786.4469
Gary B
See this: Brake pads for 2002 (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22656.msg174211#msg174211) which links to here that has all the part numbers of pads and stuff. RV Service Center in Atlanta?? - iRV2 Forums (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/rv-service-center-in-atlanta-129688.html)
Thanks Brett (and Mark),
It is always nice to have a more clearly defined target when shimmying around under the coach... ^.^d
Don
Just finished installing the first (leaker) seal today. I have learned a ton in my research and it all went pretty smoothly. The next one will be either tomorrow or during the week. I will take some pictures of the other side while being done. Would there be any interest in my making a repairing a leaking wheel seal post with pictures and info? I used Stemco Voyager seals and a Stemco Pro-Torq axle nut. Got the adjustment down to 3 thousands. Installed helper springs and cleaned the oily pad. It was not too bad at all. I wanted to say thanks for all the input especially Stump.
Mark
Mark, speaking for myself I would appreciate the post. While I have done plenty of axle seals, not with air disc. Nice to know what to expect when the time comes.
Jerry
I think the pad/rotor friction will virtually vaporize some petroleum that got on the brake
Mark,
Most of us who have written these kind of follow-up's know it is time consuming. I think most of the members appreciate them, I know I certainly do.
Post away when you get the time.
Thanks
Rick
my personal x foretravel dealer chassis mechanic for many years preloads the front wheel bearings.
my old Honda dirt bikes steering head roller bearings had a 22 foot pounds torque spec on preload in the manual.
if the .003 adjustment results in any steering wander or "dead" spot in the driving I would hope you would post your results here.
I will post any problems with steering wander if noted,Bob. Jerry and Rick, I will do a write up with some pictures in a week or so. I have to do the other side. That is when I will take more detailed pictures.
Mark
Just received some slide pins I ordered today. I got them off of ebay for a pretty good price if anyone is looking for some. They are part number KIT15016. He still has 5 left.
Meritor 15016 Brake Kit | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/161439343531?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Mark
I guess that was a good deal. I posted the pins here a few hours ago and they are all gone now. Cool..
Mark
Thanks for posting :)
I would very much so appreciate posting a DIY on how to do this. I'll stop by your house to do mine on my way north in May :-P 8) Just kidding I'm probably going to go to the local International dealer to have it done.