Trying to avoid, shade solutions that involve wedges and/or the flap at the bottom to accommodate the DS dash hump. Considering instead of a one piece motorized windshield duo shade; would install 2 motorized sets; 1 set for each windshield half that would parallel and hug the windshield resulting in providing uniform coverage at both side curvatures of the windshield. Would see wiring the switches where I can control either side from the drivers seat; and another switch where the passenger can control their side individually as well. Also visualizing placing an upholstered vertical channel down the middle of the windshield held in place with Velcro to provide a clean look covering the space between the left and right shade drops.
Comments?
Sounds like the split power MCD shades I had installed at MOT 4-5 years ago. The switches are located on the side by my retarder, so I can use them from the drivers seat. This was one of the best upgrades we have - it is easy to use, no problems, helps keep heat out, etc.
I say go for it, you will like the results.
Hi Fiddler,
I had concerns about MCD full front shades and the hump when I had mine done a year ago. Surprisingly they have a good solution which is to place the shade weight up about 10 inches up on the shades. This allows the bottom section to fold forward to miss the bottom.of the hump. I was surprised how well it does work and have gotten used to it. Though clearly it would have been cleaner if the hump were not there.
I really like the MCD shades and have no qualms about the company nor product.
Ours is like Jims. Our kids coach is the split. I think I like ours better because of not having the wide piece in the center to bridge the gap between the two shades. Both a far better than the pull across version.
This what ours looks like. Works well with vents too.
If you have a long flap (8-10" is suggested for the hump issue) then those 8-10" hang down from the bottom of the rollers, about 7-9" from the bottom of the valence. They will not roll up any further.
We did not want a big flap. We wanted the defrost vents open to the coach for use with the Aqua Hot. We did not want the 3 or 4 inch wide vertical divider in the middle of the window.
Using two shades mounted so that the center edge of one is inside of the other and they overlap by 4" or so seemed like the only way to go. There is a 2" or so gap between the shades in the center so there can be some light leakage at night. This doubles the cost as well.
The wedges at each side are very simple, easy to store, easy to set up (no fasteners needed) and you can get a shade with no flap and it lets you use one set of shades instead of two and one set of switches or controls instead of two. Much cheaper. Something to consider. Sometimes simple is better. I think I posted pictures of ours but send me a regualr email and I will send photos. I can send patterns as well.
As in everything, especially for your coach, do as Dave M. suggests, whatever makes you happy.👍
Roger
I just received a new duel roller Manual front shade. I too did not like the 8-10" flap, I'm going to try to mount mine where it just hits the back of the instrument hump. I don't think I will worry too much about the slight gap at the edges of the windshield. If so I'll build me some wedges like Roger did.
Bruce, here are some pictures that may help. I made some blocks to space the shade down about 1" to clear the speakers (CB and radio) in the flat panel forward of the vertical valence and above the dash. I mounted the shade so that the night shade was close to the existing trim on either side after the original mounts for the horizontal shdes were removed.
I have a couple adjustments to make at some point. Be sure to measure the vertical distance from the dash to the shade mounting point. Adjust your spacers to fit. I was surprised after all was installed to find the bottom of the shade on the driver's side is about 3/16" higher than the passenger's side. This is an easy fix but would have been easier before installing. This is probably because the upper horizontal shelf is not parallel to the dash. It is possible that the shade is not quite square. Susan says it is fine the way it is.
The horiontal part where the speakers are is 3/4" plywood in my coach, plenty to mount the shades to.
Roger
Finally got around to installing the new front windshield shade. Install was straight forward not a problem about an hour. No speakers so I did not need to use spacer blocks, just removed the CB radio speaker and covered the hole.
Do the shades overlap in the middle or did you opt for a center valance? I just mailed my order today to MCD for all the windows and dual manual in front that do not overlap. If the gap is a problem I will make a center valance, maybe one that can be easily removed for travel. I cut a piece of wood to simulate the bottom of the shade on the driver side. There might be a slight gap at the lower back part of the windshield on the driver side.
Jerry ours is one piece 97" OAL, we mounted it some what forward to avoid the instrument hump. By doing that it creats about a 4" gap were the W/S curves around. It it becomes an issue I will use Rogers solution.
The electric roll up front one piece blind is liked, so had one installed over the steps so it can be adjusted while driving like the front blind for sun control.
Good job, Bruce. You will like them, I am sure.
Roger
I have the original split electric shades Foretravel put in when I bought the coach. They used some spacers on the mounting screws to get the speaker clearance. Just another way of doing it. I want to replace them because I dont have the second set of sunshades just the blackout shades. 8)
Barry,
Does your coach have a valence down the center strip?
Don
Yes, the shade rolls down behind it. Keeps all the light out. I like being able to operate them separately while driving.
I also have the dual shade set up and love it. I can use it as a sun visor on either side that way too. I have extended valances on the sides and a valance in the middle.
Thanks Roger, like em so far.