The other day it seemed like we were out of water, so I filled the tank. The gauge showed 3/4 full, but lately I've decided that the gauge isn't worth the powder it would take to blow it up. Tonight I was going to fill the sink to do the dishes and I wasn't getting any water. I went out and checked. The fresh water tank is full. The valve handle under the bathroom sink is in the normal position.
Normally the pump makes a reasonable amount of noise when it is running, but now it is really quiet. By "reasonable" I mean that I can hear it running even if the television is on. Now, it is so quiet that we have to check the light to see if it is on. Outside, I can hear the pump running, but it sounds like water is just flowing around, not actually going anywhere. I don't see any leaks.
So, do I need a new pump? If so, should I try to get an exact replacement or look for something different? If something different, what?
Is it possible to leave the hose attached, outside faucet on, and valve turned to "fill" to have water inside, or must I fill water bottles until the pump is fixed? We aren't expecting freezing temperatures until Wednesday night, and I can easily disconnect Wednesday night.
Hook up your water hose, turn on the outside faucet, and leave the valve under the bathroom sink
closed (in the same position as when you are using your on-board pump). The outside water source supplies pressure - you're good to go. This is how lots of people operate all the time when they have full hook-ups - they never use their pump. Many pros and cons on this subject, but in your situation it will work fine, until you can figure out what the problem is or get a new pump installed.
Check the pump, and see if you have a filter in the line. Some pumps have a small clear filter that is a simple unscrew to access.
Thanks. There isn't much water pressure here, but some is better than none.
I'll poke at the pump tomorrow when I get home.
Are you sure the valve under the sink is turned to the correct position? I left mine partially open by accident and got the same symptoms that you have now. The pump was super quiet and had no pressure.
Pierce
Just checked it again. Handle is solidly across the body of the coach. Fill is handle fore and aft.
Well, the problem is solved - and I didn't do anything. I turned the water faucet off, then took the left pump fitting off. Nothing. Started taking the right one off, and got sprayed. Jo Ann turned on the water (no pump) until no water came out of the faucet. Started taking the right fitting off again, and got sprayed again. I then put everything back together, and just for grins I had Jo Ann turn the pump on. It acted normally, and water is running properly again.
Now, a question. When we fill the water tank we turn a valve under the bathroom sink 90 degrees, then turn it back when the tank is full (or I get impatient and quit before then). I followed Chuck's suggestion, and it worked fine. Our neighbor here says that our plumbing is set up with only one water inlet, which is why we have the valve. When we turn the valve water goes directly into the fresh water tank. When it is in the normal position, either the pump provides the pressure or city water pressure does. A check valve keeps the water coming in from going back into the pump. Is this correct?
Replacement water pump (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=17112.msg112917#msg112917)
Yes, thats correct! . Glad you got it corrected. The ball valve in use water position is 90 degrees to the pipe. Fill is when the handel goes the same direction as the pipe.
You have had your share of issues. Please don't get disscurraged. ^.^d
Here is the link I found of Flowjet vs Shureflo, hope it gives you some direction.
Couple questions..
Did you find your leak?
Did it get cold in your area that could have damaged the pump?
. mines got a leak behind the panel.. got too cold, and the pumpnis 20+ years old..
That old mysterious leak turned out to be the hot water heater plug. It finally got bad enough that I could see it. A couple of dollars for a new plug took care of the problem.
This last incident was quite a head scratcher, since it hasn't gotten very cold since we've been here. It was much colder a year ago, and all worked fine then. Our neighbor wondered if maybe the pump lot prime somehow. I wondered if it somehow got an air bubble in it.
I'm thinking that I'll check into a new pump and have it on hand for when this one dies. That ought to give it a good long life.
David, still not sure what your issue was but glad you got it fixed. I have made some changes to my pump bay like a new accumulation tank, flexible hose to reduce noise and repositioning the pump for easier access. Pumps seem to be a frequently changed item. I keep a spare on board. If you would like I'll take some photos as soon as I get over the flu. Let me know.
Well, I spoke (err, wrote) too soon. Maybe I should stop doing dishes. As soon as I started running the water (using the pump) I started getting air. It worked fine before supper. The hose is back on, but I'll disconnect it before we go to bed since the weather guessers think it will get down to freezing about daybreak.
If your pump is sucking air, that might indicate a break or leak somewhere in the supply line going from water tank to pump. If your coach is arranged like my mine, it may be difficult to check the whole length of that line. Not much room between the top of tank and "ceiling" of wet compartment. Once it warms up, you might try disconnecting the inlet line to water pump, and connecting a short hose running into a bucket of water. If the pump draws the water out of the bucket OK, then your problem has to be between the pump and the tank..
Check the back flow preventer on the fill line and make sure it is seating.
Stump, is that under the handle in the bathroom or at the fill point? If the former, how do I get to it?
I don't think the back flow preventer has anything to do with the current problem. When it leaks, all that happens is water dribbles out of your fill hose (or water fill connection point) when your pump is on. I know - mine has been leaking for some time. :-[
David, the back flow preventer is usually located in the wet bay, near the fill port. Sometimes it is immediately behind the connection where you attach your fill hose, or if you have a hose reel it will be in the gray water line somewhere near the reel.
I replaced that valve last year - easy job. I'm wondering if there is a problem with the valve under the sink. Could it be leaking back into the tank?
When my tank froze this winter the pump ran but wasn't getting any water, so I thought the tank was empty. I filled the tank and ran the rear furnace a long time until the tank thawed out and then everything worked normally... so how cold is it where you are?
Yes the valve under the sink can leak back into the tank but you will hear the pump running even when all spigots are closed. I had to replace my under-sink valve two years ago. A leaky valve should not cause air to be entering the system. I'm almost certain that you have a leak in the water line that comes from the tank to the pump or a leak in the pump itself.
Tonight will be the first night in quite a while that it will get below freezing. We've had daytime temperatures in the upper 70's.
Kent, looks like I'll try to get to that valve this weekend. If I forget and leave the pump on, it will kick on about every 30 minutes or so, even if no water is used. We've learned to keep the pump off unless we actually need water, and then turn it off.
I think that is at least one problem answered. That's what mine used to do. By it coming on so often it may have also worn out the pump mechanism. I don't think that is what was putting air into the system. Look for leaks in the tank to pump line.
You should be able to find a Sharkbite connector type valve that is a direct replacement.
Good Luck