Since purchasing my coach I have a a problem with engine spinning slow if the coach set for 2wks or more. Approx. 8 weeks ago I ordered a Voltage Sensing relay and cables from FOT. I thought it would be a good alternative to a trickle charger. The relay was an excellent addition. The coach now turns over as it should. I leave my coach plugged in and the relay now takes care of the batteries.
I installed this one, has ability for manual control as well Combiner 160 Sheet (http://yandina.com/c160Info.htm)
Removed isolator.
Krush,
Yours closes at a lower voltage. I did leave the isolator. I haven't seen an issue. Why did you remove the isolator?
I removed it for a couple reasons: the isolator isn't needed with the combiner; I'm not sure if the isolator even worked; the isolator, by it's design, sucks energy (reason for cooling fins); I used the space and the wires going (EDIT) to ISOLATOR to wire up the COMBINER; combiner has lifetime warranty.
The combiner works both ways: it charges engine batteries when from house charger, and it charges house batteries when engine is running. I hooked up a 3 position switch which allows OFF/Auto/On. The on function really isn't needed because we have a boost solenoid--but if that fails, it's another option (combiner won't pass the amount of amps a boost solenoid will, though).
To be clear did you mean" I used the space and the wires going to isolator to wire up the combiner "
The Combiner claims to have no voltage drop. The Isolator has a voltage drop of a diode (approx 0.7 volts). To me this implies that converting from the Isolator to the Combiner would require adjusting the max voltage of the alternator.
You are correct....dyslexia! I fixed the order.
Harvey,
If I understand your question correctly no you don't need to change the set point on your alternator voltage regulator. The regulator will see that there is less residence in the line and will adjust the voltage to the set point. You can look at it like this also, if you change the length of wire from the alternator to the battery from 10' to 100' the regulator sensing would change the output to maintain the set point. If you change your battery type, that requires a different charge voltage set point, then yes (there are other variables too, this is just one) you would need to make a change.
Pamela & Mike
I noticed the following in the 160 combiner manual:
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Do I read this correctly that it prohibits connecting the heavy gauge battery cables directly to the combiner?
You read correctly. The combiner is not meant to be a heavy boost solenoid. It is made for 160amps.
The manual states the reason for the 6 feet of 6gauge wire is to provide enough resistance to prevent inrush current from burning up the relay. This could occur if one battery bank is dead and the other battery bank is fully charged. The 6gauge wire "dampens" the rush of current as the relay closes.
Would appear a heavier contactor might be in order. Would think these fragile items seem to have a reliability issue over time ?
IF I had in mind to play this game, would be thinking about an oil pressure switch to pull up a proper contactor, when engine is running, it conducts, when stopped, it opens contact.
Considering they offer a LIFETIME warranty with the only stipulation being that the proper sized wire be used, I'd say the designers probably have it figured out.
While I installed the VSR I did not remove the Isolator. I do not expect an issue, but if it did fail, worse case scenario turn boost solenoid on start coach replace VSR at earliest opportunity.
I'll add another reason I removed the isolator. I have no way easily monitor if it is isolating properly. I don't want to end up with a surprise and have dead engine batteries.