We have done some more small renovations....the toilet wasn't working properly so we upgraded to a porcelain oblong one. We changed out the faucet to a chrome upright one which lead to a new sink. We changed the toilet roll holder to a chrome one as well as changing the shower knobs to chrome. I have a new kitchen faucet that will get install soon. I also changed out the cabinet knobs to new ones....Mike is a VERY handy man. He is also upholstering the front dashboard. Will post pictures of that once he installs it back again. Attached is before and after pictures.
IMG_0023 - are the old ones
IMG_0031 - are the replacement
Sorry forgot to mention that the picture DSC-0219 is the old bathroom.
Joanne :-[
Nice upgrades. I like the faucet. Look forward to pics of the dash when your finished.
Mike,
Nice work, Buddy. Hope my DW doesn't see this post. You are the kind of guy who makes the rest of us look lazy...thanks a lot! ;)
What model and brand of toilet did you use?
Craig
Trent/Craig - It is a Dometic model 320 ceramic bowl gravity flush... The model is also called "Revolution" I think...
Chuck - If it makes it any better, it took me weeks and weeks to do the whole project - most of the time was spent on finding the toilet we wanted, and second to that on the recovering of the dash board. By the way, I think I lightened the weight of the coach by several pounds - there were many, many staples holding the vinyl in place.
Mike
Craig - I just remembered that the new toilet is an inch or so taller than the old one, and in our U225 that causes a conflict with the hamper door above and behind the toilet. My interim solution was to remove the door. I plan to cut the door along the bottom to clear the new toilet, but I need to think about how to cover the gap that will leave. For now, just leaving the door off.
Thanks, Mike. I don't think I want to do away with the hamper door, either. But we would really, really like a ceramic toilet. The OEM potty doesn't do too badly but it needs to be rebuilt beacause it no longer holds water... so we have to do the 1970s trick of lining the bowl with TP before.... well..... you know...
Maybe fabricate a piece of walnut to go along that bottom edge... router in a miter to let you lay it over the bottom edge and then router in an area for the bottom of the door to meet.
Craig
Craig, on your toilet problem "not holding water" try pouring a cup of CLR in it and hopefully before it all runs out some may remove any patches ofcalcium etc that may be on seal. Those toilets are easy to take apart and clean seals, but if you are wanting a new one anyway then cleaning is a mute point.
JohnH
Craig...my suggestion to Mike was to cut off the bottom of the door and then glue that portion to the bottom of the door frame. You really won't see the seam because it will be behind the toilet. Not sure if that is what Mike wants to do but that is the way I'm pushing him. haha
Thanks and hopefully that will help.
Joanne
JohnH: Our holding tanks last about a week before we have to empty them and this has prompted me to consider a composting toilet which would probably give us two to three weeks but make disposal somewhat simpler (maybe). Since our plans revolve around mostly boondocking backed up by a few days in an SKP park somewhere we might be able to just get away with the RV toilet instead.
One of the drawbacks to the composting toilet is that our bathroom has a platform on which the existing toilet sits (so we have to have a shorter toilet than if it were sitting flat on the floor). Composting toilets are normally installed flat on the floor so we would probably have to have a foot stool to sit on one comfortable. On the other hand the height would reduce poor aim (ahem!). :P
But that CLR idea is a good one. Gonna do that tomorrow. :)
Craig
Let that CLR stand in the toilet as long as you can. I usually put mine in before I go to bed, I put it in a "dry" toilet at full strength. Works great.
Roland
Mike,
I am in the process of installing the Dometic 320 (gorgeous toilet; almost a work of art!) and discovered the same problem.
Craig,
Have you pursued a final solution?
Joanne,
Have you and Mike (or Craig) come up with a final solution yet?
Since the hinges are on the bottom, it looks like if you added enough wood to the bottom of the opening (less than an inch), you could reinstall it so the top of the door comes up just below the counter top. I *think* that would let it miss the top of the porcelain "handle," which is only useful for transporting the Dometic 320 prior to installation. You would have to relocate the striker down the equivalent amount to hit the existing latch. Since the routed finger pulls are at the top corners, you would still be able to access them.
The best solution might be to get my Dremel out and remove the "pre-installation handle." Unfortunately, Jean might not agree with the customized look.
We can't have been the only people who have faced this problem. What have the rest of you done to allow access to the "laundry chute" after installing a new toilet?
Thanks for any assistance or ideas anyone might be able to contribute.
Trent
Sorry Trent just saw your question.
As of right now we haven't messed with the cabinet doors. Mike is putting in new flooring for me. We have it half way done and will post some pictures soon. Since we haven't gone anywhere it's not an issue just yet. Once the flooring is done then I will go back to the cabinet. The other option I thought about is just cut out the section that is above the door and glue that portion down permanently and you only have a notch out instead of the entire bottom section. Since the toilet seat covers that section up no one will notice. haha Mike has also said that he thought he would just cut off the section of the hinge that is in the way.
Let us know if you come up with another solution.
Thanks Joanne
Would one of you please post a picture of the problem as I would like to think on it too.
JohnH
Sorry just found the pics at top of topic. Looks kinda very simple to change the hieght of bottom of opening to me and if you make the "new" piece about 1/16" wider than the width of cabinet now and have this extra bit sitting out toward the toilet it will not look "wrong" or added on!. Of course you do have to use Walnut or? and finish it off properly.
JohnH