Foretravel Owners' Forum

I searched and read a number of previous posts about the ATS(s).  It is unclear to me if I am having trouble with only ATS #2 or also the inverter/converter.
A day or two before leaving to spend DEC in FL,  I realized that the MW and some other circuits were dead.  The illuminated switches for block heater and WH lit when turned on.  I was confused (did not know then I had TWO ATS boxes) and called FT.  Gentleman in Service Dept asked several questions and then informed me I had a bad ATS #2.  A while after I got off the phone, disconnected and reconnect shore power, flipped all breakers, all the interior circuits came back on. I have since learned that there is an inexpensive thermal delay component inside the ATX box.

During my month-long FL stay, all AC interior circuits worked.  I don't remember seeing a flashing FAULT LED on the monitor panel.
After returning to home, I might have waiting a couple weeks before connecting shore power.  I might have also forgotten to open the house battery switch in the stairwell.  I don't remember if it was then, or after I plugged in shore power, that I discovered I did not have enough 12V power to illuminate my new LED wall or under-cabinet down lights  :thumbsdown: Non-selfcontained sensors shut down for lack of power.

After charging the three HUGE (M8 or something like that) AGM house batteries for DAYS, a break, and DAYS again, the AC circuits fed by ATS #2 mysteriously became live again.  I was using a large older charger in the 40A position. Then for a day or so, I'd set it down to 2A.  Even after days @ the 40A setting, the dial still showed the batteries drawing about 12A. looks as though they would continue to draw 12A indefinitely.  God forbid they are all ruined.

Even now that the monitor panel shows house batteries 12.4V, the panel continues to flash a FAULT.  Pressing the RESET on the film panel does nothing.  From what I read in previous related posts, perhaps I should disconnect house battery terminal(s) and shore power a while to accomplish a "hard reset" of the inverter/converter.  I cannot find a physical reset button or any such thing on the inverter cabinet in the curbside storage bay. Is there one somewhere?  have tried flipping every breaker (in the steel foot-of-the-bed boxes) countless times.

Before the AC from ATS #2 eventually came back on, I found a great eBay price on an ATS 503 and now have one in the box. FT put one ATS100 almost on top of the other.  Sadly, #2 is the lower of the two, practically concealed by #1. The configuration of the ATS503 differs from the old ATS100.  So, I am not confident about performing the replacement.  Never the less, glad I got it rather than try to rebuilt the 15yo ATS100 with new contacts and thermal delay component.
 

batteries left discharged below 50% for more than a very short time are probably toast

My lower ATS failed, was daily simply to replace - new one had delay, old one didn't. Should have attempted to repair old ATS first instead of automatically going for remove and replace.

Sorry, not the news you probably wanted to hear....

I have replaced a couple of them and the new version is a bit different then the old. If you discharged your batteries twice that way, I fear you have damaged them.

I can't help with the ATS question (above my pay grade), but if I was looking at the battery problem I'd try the fairly simple steps below before I went shopping for new ones.  First, disconnect all the battery cables so the batteries are completely separated (electrically).  Try charging each battery individually, with a known good charger.  Battery chargers can go bad.  After charging check the individual battery voltage with a good battery load tester.  I use the (cheaper) one from Harbor Freight, link below.  If none of the batteries will take a good charge, then you have your answer - replace all 3.  Or perhaps you will find only one battery is bad.  In that case popular wisdom says replace all 3 anyway, but that is up to you.  Or the batteries might all check out good.  In that case, clean the battery posts and cable ends thoroughly, and reconnect the cables.  Then try to figure out why the batteries are not charging.

6 Volt/12 Volt Battery Load Tester (http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-6-volt12-volt-battery-load-tester-69888-9193.html)

500 Amp Carbon Pile Load Tester (http://www.harborfreight.com/500-amp-carbon-pile-load-tester-91129.html)

Thanks for that advice, Chuck.
just went out to check on something else (Delta faucet model, to find parts) and tried working with the Pro Sine control panel again.
The POWER LINE MONITOR, below it, shows 121V Line 1 and 120V Line 2.  However, the upper Pro Sine control panel does not have an LED lighted for utility/shorepower (incoming).  I was mistaken if I had said the FAULT lamp was flashing.  It is actually on steady.  The WARNING lamp above it is the one flashing.  Pressing and holding either the RESET pad, or the charger ON/OFF pad is futile. tried flipping the main box breaker for power to the inverter a couple times.  It does make ATS #2 clunk closed, which would not happen until a few days ago (when the MW and a night light in the galley lit up).
 Part of the problem could be that the shore power cable is reduced at the garage inside wall and plugged into a 20A outlet. 

I agree.

Regardless of what else is going on, it is always best to have these coaches plugged into a 50A outlet.  30A also works, but at reduced capacity.  Anything less than that and you are asking for diverse operational problems.  JMHO

Not sure which Prosine you have, but here in the info from the 2.5/3.0kW manual (which is in the forum Files section )

Prosine 2.5/3.0 Installation & Operation Guide
Section 2: Controls and Indicators

Faults Indicators & Reset Button
Warning LED This LED flashes on-and-off for the duration of any error condition, accompanied by an audible alarm if the alarm is enabled.

Fault LED This LED flashes on-and-off during an error condition from which the unit will automatically recover and restart when the condition is remedied. The FAULT LED will be lighted steadily when any error occurs from which the inverter/charger cannot automatically recover. It is usually necessary to disconnect the AC or DC supply to recover from this type of error. An error condition is accompanied by an audible alarm if the alarm is enabled.

Error Code Display

When an error occurs, either the Warning, the Fault, or the Temp LED will be lighted, as well as one of the Battery Voltage LEDs, and one of the Battery Current LEDs. These three LEDs indicate an error code that you can look up on the Error Code table in "Appendix C: Troubleshooting" to assist in determining the nature of the error

Besides Warning flashing and Fault on steady, what battery voltage LED and battery current LED are lit?

Could low ambient temperature be the problem? I noticed that home may be Jackson, MI. Was the coach heated or in a heated garage? As ;you know, until the past few days, temperatures in this area have struggled to get into the 20s. If I read the Prosine spec correctly, the low end of the operating temperature range for the unit is 32F.

My coach is located in Pinckney, MI not far east of Jackson in unheated storage not connected to power. I went out a week ago to connect temporary power and charge the batteries. It was 15 degrees. The prosine display had all three lights (Warning, Fault, and Temp) flashing. I went back a few days later when the temperature was in the 20s and everything worked normally.

and that was the problem with mine while we were in Europe in November as temps dropped to very cold unexpectedly. Once I got the heat on in coach is corrected lights and has been fine.
JohnH

Michelle, Bob and John -- THANK YOU!  b^.^d
Indeed, except for a day or two, it has been severely cold here.  The coach is in my driveway.  So, like many of us humans, my Unihome has SEASONAL AFFECTIVE DISORDER  :o
Sooner or later, I am going to need that new ATS503 anyway.

It might be good to add a small Electric heater or light bulb to the equipment bay, plugged in through a temp switch that closes at or below 35 degrees and opens at or above 45 degrees.