Today i took the old LP.. sucking furnace out along with all the old nasty duck work ..... and OMG the smell is ungodly! Now on to the sofa but then i see all the wires and this nice size box . looks to have something to do with the bed room AC unit... but god only knows what els . There's a note on the Aluminum box that reads this side up.. hmm. Now folks my plan is to do away with the slobber soaked sofa that the Po's Two Bull Mastiffs dogs!! Why not own a nice Smith &W 357 mag ;D I hope this box has nothing to do with the auto level . Oh well time to get back to getting the sofa out . at the end of the day the only thing i hope to have protruding from the floor is a the LP gas line that will be needed for the vent free heater . All help greatly appreciated... One thing more, I will-not be reinstalling the old sofa bed, But rather a nice leather reclining loveseat .That i can spin around to face the front of the coach . Hopefully i can extend the wires and some how the gas line so this all works out . HELP!!!!!!!!!!
(revised title to be more descriptive - Michelle)
This might be helpful: Grand Villa Wiring (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23481.msg182463#msg182463)
I don't want to de-rail your thread, but could you tell me more about this reclining love seat?
Thanks
I got the sofa out, And need to move the alu box and a 4" round thing that has to do with the leveling system... also the gas line . I'm thinking under sink in galley . All help appreciated :)
I would not move the sensor for the leveling system. It is probably where it is for a reason. Near center of coach, if you move it you may have to figure out how to set it up to level the coach.
Gary B
Agree with Gary that the level sensor needs to be near the center of the coach. But, it can be moved to any central location.
Yes, I suspect you will need to re-calibrate it using a large level, but no big deal.
The leveling thing under the couch? Just ask Kent Speers about that. He said something about a nightmare and being almost impossible to reset.
Yes, would like more details. Have moved and re-calibrated several. They ARE sensitive.
If you are up to it, HWH has a new electronic level sensor that replaces the metal mercury filled sensor. While your mercury level needs to be mounted on the top of an inside floor, the electronic level mounts under the bay ceiling. The electronic unit completely replaces the mercury unit so it can be removed.
We have had the electronic sensor for several years and it works just fine. Here is a pictorial description of our installation:
Replacing the HWH Mercury Level Sensor with an Electronic Sensor (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=technical:hwh:level-replacement)
But you certainly can relocate the mercury sensor to a place under any kitchen bottom drawer. Some floor locations may be more optimal, but any floor location should give you satisfactory results as long as the unit is adjusted when the coach is parked in a fully level position.
I have been intending to do this for some time... It looks like the cable kit is way longer than needed for mounting in the center bay her the HWH control box. Did you shorten the harness, or just coil it up? It seems that 6' would enough as it would be mounted in our coach.
Don
Don, We did not shorten cable.
We did mount the new sensor in the measured center of the coach from side to side in our large bay. To adjust and tweak we had to slide out our Joey Bed and crawl in to turn the screws. With joey bed out and my body inside the coach goes out of level.
So I relocated the electronic sensor still pretty much centered front to rear but just a few inches in from the street side. After HWH levels and we find that our 4-legged RV-Level placed on our inside floor shows that HWH needs tweaking, I now just lift the bay door and crank one of the spring loaded screws to adjust the HWH sensor. It has taken a few tweaks to get job done.
BTW, I don't feel that the electronic sensor is doing a better job than our original mercury level that was under our cabinet. Both work quite well.
I seem to recall a couple years back, that someone posted that Foretravel coaches were set level by putting a regular level on the kitchen counter and then the HWH level was set to that point.
That is how I check/calibrate mine, except I use the coach floor, not counter.
Hello every one started taking up the " very cheep " look like wood flooring... You wouldn't be leave the amount of dog drool and dog hair that was under the flooring what a smell :o . Also there is a leak coming from somewhere, I think its leaking where the noise clip meets the coach body . I can clearly see where the caulking has come apart & not sealing, I tried to tighten the screws but some where stripped out . So I,m thinking to drill thru the wall and use a small nut & bolt to pull the strip tight and re-caulk . Using stainless steel bolts with brass washers & nuts . As for the love seat there are lots of options I'm thinking power recline . One thing for sure had i not started this project i wouldn't have found the leaks in the same area on both sides of the coach...I.m also removing all the decals as they don't match the awnings . This is one of the silver Anniversary coaches the awnings our black & silver striped, In like new condition . So I'm thinking a very nice clean all white coach with limo tented windows should look sweet ^.^d Thanks for all your help folks!
Barry i typed in the part number thats on the elect sensor in your photo, with the 21' harness for under 70 dollars on ebay but it looks diff from yours
I would hesitate to drill thru the body in an attempt to tighten trim strip and stop leak. Drilling will only make more places for water to enter.
Where screws have stripped out fill will epoxy or similar substance and then use new screws to tighten strip and at the same time caulk the joint between the front cap and side walls/roof. Probably best would be to CAREFULLY remove trim strip, clean out all old caulk, fill screw holes and re caulk then replace trim strip. While you are at this nasty job do the rear trim strip too.
Gary B
I second what Gary just posted, except I would use stainless steel screws and one size larger. Caulk the holes the screws go in just before you put the screws in.
Lovetogo,
I Googled and also went to ebay.com, but did not get any Ebay hits on "RAP-91031", so I am not sure what you are seeing.
Thanks Michelle for revising my title . Please feel free to revise any of my post ^.^d
this is the number thats on the wiring harness in the bottom photo in the post with the new elc level ( AP28573 )
That is what I am in the process of doing on the driver's side of our coach. Stuff was really messed up on that side. My solution (2nd go at it) was to remove the trim, remove the doors, drill 3/8 holes everywhere I wanted to put in screws, insert an adhesive coated dowel, let set and put everything back together. I used silicone on the door hinges and on the stainless steel screws when I put everything back together. No place for water intrusion now.
Roland
I fully understand the " Emphasis " on pet free and never lived in :-X . I now need the 21' thin wide harness that runs from the box to the HWH control at the drivers seat .
lovetogo,
The Ebay photo looks like the rear side of our HWH electronic level that faces up. I am not sure it is the correct part number for your coach but it does look like ours. And the $50 price is right.