Has anyone here had their "garage door" engine access changed to the "swinging door" type ? The mod is shown on the Xtreme web site and was wondering if it's wothe doing. I have trouble lifting my engine access.
I think Dave M did.
Trent
A couple have had it done and Dave M is one of them. Do the air springs need replacing or is it a mobility problem?
JohnH
The change I had made was not to the dual gate type shown in the Xtreme ad, but a hinged up that is very simple, easy to use, no dangerous operation, Barry & Cindy have the exact same as mine, the dual gate type has little desire for me. When I get to other computer I will be able to show the pix of mine. Everyone that has seen it, thinks it is the best choice, talk to Rance at Xtreme, he seems to prefer the one I have over the dual gate type. Guess it is just an opinon.
Found it doing search.
http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13966.0;attach=5772;image
John, Dave, thanks for the information.
The lift problem is probably a combination of the two, old shoulders/hands & tired air springs.
How do I know if my air springs need replacing. ?
Yes,
I wish that I had the same modification on our "new" coach and that particular modification will be one of our first "whenever we can get to it" -- that and the Peninsular/Motion Windows.
My (initial) motivation, on the U270, was twofold:
1. I wanted to get rid of the "Strut Creep" problem in the fiberglass in the engine bay door:
- One can see the the frame induced bulges in the attached photo.
- The struts are so strong in the "door closed position" that they caused the fiberglass to deform (creep) on the exterior of the door. As far as I know, only a few of the 1998's had this problem, so it more than likely had to do with precisely how the panels were "hand laid up", how well they were sealed against water intrusion on the inside of the door (where the door structure/frame pads are glassed into the interior surface) and whether or not a coach was exposed to salt/chloride conditions (rust bulging/jacking).
- James said that he could remove the offending causes and reinforce the exterior, but once there, it would likely reappear. So I wanted to do away with the frame.
2. I also wanted to remove the ladder:
- After rebuilding my roof access ladder, I was alarmed at how many damaged and marginal pieces I found, and therefore, how unsafe the ladder had become. At my weight of 200 lbs., it was always "creaky", but I just didn't realize how unsafe it had become, until I rebuilt it. I have always found the "Little Giant", that we carry, more reassuring and safe to use.
- With the trailer, I wanted the additional clearance and less worry when backing to the "ladder side." The 12" extension (10K solid bar) hitch receiver insert, still doesn't give much turning "forgiveness."
- I wanted to have the much cleaner appearance that removing the ladder affords.
I have posted several times regarding the engine bay door modification. Here is just one that also has a link to a file of PICASA pictures:
What you can learn in meeting other Foretravel owners (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=14129.0)
There are also several pictures on the Extreme Paint and Graphics web site:
Xtreme Paint & Graphics Home (http://www.xtremegraphics.net/ourwork/paintedgraphics/?action=view&PID=128)
When I was deciding whether to have two vertically hinged access doors or a single horizontally hinged door with struts, it became an easy choice once I saw James' (now Keith and Joyce's) coach. I am prone to finding (with the top of my bald head) anything sharp that is less than six feet off the ground. I have the scars to prove it. The overhead, horizontally hinged, door has sharp stuff, starting at about the 5'6" to 5'8" off the ground. Unlike the original bay door with a smooth, safe, lower edge, the horizontally hinged door has sharpies. For me, that's the perfect height to forget about it until I find it inadvertently (over and over again). I also didn't want to lay a trap for others six feet or more tall, similarly afflicted with my malady, whether for resale or for just good service personnel relations reasons.
In the spirit of full disclosure though, while the two door arrangement is seldom a concern regarding "door(s) being in the way", the two doors have the distinctly annoying habit of brushing their "now unhidden" "diesel dirt" off on clean clothing. The doors may be within my line of sight, unlike the overhead sharpies, but I still get into trouble with the DW over carelessness and failure to wear my "coach-work" coveralls.
There is also a great deal more craftsmanship and labor in building the two doors, as opposed to building the single one. Because Xtreme had not built their first horizontally hinged door yet, and the price was the same, it made the "Prevost Style Doors" choice more clear for me. For me, both options are vast improvements over the original. Doesn't have to be for everyone, though.
Neal
Here is some earlier Forum discussions on rear engine door, including our modification.
Pix of New Rear Cover Change 01 320 (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13966.msg79475#msg79475)
Interesting that Xtreme does not show the Dual Gate type engine door in their ad, however now show the vertical hinged model like Rance did for Barry & Cindy and my coach.
Wonder why the change.
Xtreme Paint & Graphics Home (http://www.xtremegraphics.net/ourwork/backdoorconversions/)
I do all my own wrenching and used to be a mechanic. I think the original rear door provides the best access. I'm a function over form guy, though.
Heavy rear original doors have been known to fall hitting the person hanging into the engine compartment right in the middle of the back. Safety clips around the side posts are recommended to prevent accidental closing.
How do the doors fail? Is it structurally?
When the original design door is in the fill open position, the hinge goes over-center and locks. It must be lifted to be closed.
I can see, in my case, not being able to reach high enough with the load to get it fully in locked position.
Edit....wonder about replacing one of the air cyl with a linear actuator ?
Amazon.com: 8 Inch 8" Stroke Linear Actuator 12 Volt 12V 225 Pounds lbs... (http://www.amazon.com/Stroke-Linear-Actuator-Pounds-Maximum/dp/B00OGLLTE0/ref=pd_sim_hi_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MYPNH5TRMEN7MXTW2RB)
Some coaches have their rear door go over center a lot and some have them go over center very little.
Could a strong wind cause the door to be pushed back?
Some Forum members have had their rear door fall on them, so it does happen
Many have fashioned something to keep door 'locked' open. For many years we had a carabineer that hooked around the flat steel and the round post it was supposed to be pressed against when door is in up position. But we now have a much improved fool proof method to prevent the heavy door from accidently closing, so we had a retirement party for our carabineers.
I have James' old coach. It has all Xtreme's conversions on it. Here is a pic of the door conversion.
Keith
I like that conversion , very nice