After spending an awful lot of time cleaning and polishing my roof , I noticed some of the black end caps on the ladder are cracked , I remember Michele posted something about these a while back but I am unable to find it .
Is it a Foretravel part or has some one found another source .
Thanks Jim
- VLPRBS.2 Black Premier End Caps - Price: .50 - Factory RV Surplus - 1611... (http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=2014)
Bill B. sent me this link a month or two ago. ;D
I bought new ones from FOT. Don't remember the price but they were stocked and I needed them. David
It was Steve who posted Atwood Ladder End Caps (https://www.irvblog.com/foretravel%20projects/Ladder-End-Caps/) that's why search might not have found it.
Wow that's was fast , thank you , and sorry Michele
Here is a pictorial write-up on our ladder end replacement.
Ladder Repair - Plastic Ends (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=technical:exterior:ladders)
Funny this should come up as I have just 'repaired" all the caps on Geoffs GV as they too were cracked and one gave out on me.
I took them all off and poured the mix of Fibreglass resin and hardener in to the cavities and let them set over night. Put them back on and I have been up and down that ladder many times since and they are holding my weight with ease. Now to see how long they last, but think they are many times stronger than before.
JohnH
Three years ago while in Zapata, TX for the winter I noticed the anchor points on our ladder were loose. Further investigation up inside the rear cap disclosed that the only things holding the ladder in place were the bolts and flat washers.
I got longer bolts, some really hard, hard wood I found there at the CG and proceeded to put wood up inside the rear cap. The ladder is now real solid when I climb up with my 230# and doesn't move. (the ladder, I mean!) >:D
Don't know what kind of wood it is but it is really close grained and almost impossible to cut with my reciprocating saw unless I use a metal cutting blade.
Sounds like you found some Ironwood, which is many times used when making pallets etc. That stuff is tough.
JohnH
New end caps arrived but have raised tabs on leading edge not present on old caps . Should I use plastic mallet to wedge them into alloy tread or grind them down ?
When I look at your photo, the one on the left looks like it has a worn down raise line in the same place as the one on the right which has tall un-worn lines. Is that what you are referring to?
The raised interference "ribs" are to compensate for tolerance variations in the plastic mold and in the aluminum tube extrusion.
Small on the plastic and large on the tube would create a loose fit.
If the ends of the aluminum tubing have not been chamfered on the inside the sharp edge will possibly shear the plastic "ribs".
Designed this way can remove the necessity for an adhesive.
(Just a viewpoint from an old ingunear) >:D >:D
closer inspection of a number of old caps I don't believe they ever had the tabs and seem to be a snug fit .
The new ones would require quite a bit of "persuasion " to fit into the tread end .
I just did mine a couple of weeks ago and they went together fine. A couple required some light persuasion with a small plastic mallet.
Rich
Filed the tabs down and replaced the old caps .
Thanks to you guys I will keep a close eye on it
I also noticed my anchor points were held on with only bolts and flat washers. I can see the anchor points moving out when I climb up. I cannot reach up inside to reach where the anchors bolts come thru. I don't know how they secured them that far up. I need to figure a way because it is not safe.
I checked my end caps and almost all needed to be replaced. I put on my 3 spare sets I bought some time ago and ordered the rest and some spares.
Barry, for what it is worth, I had to weld "sacrificial handles" on the nuts that went inside the frame when I installed our baseplate on our Vue. Possibly, if you can see up inside enough to help guide you, you might be able to do something similar to what I did on the Vue.
All I did was tack weld some 1'8" steel rod onto the nuts and then bent the rod to help locate the individual nut over the frame hole. Lots of "shoptalk" came into play I must admit. But I got it done! After tightening the bolts I bent the rods until the metal suffered fatigue and came off the nut.
I would need eyes like the ones on your Avitar :o Besides my body will no longer bend like that anymore :( I save these jobs for Colton Truck & RV :D .
So here is my/our answer to fixing those ladder end caps. I drew up a sketch and sent it to Brother Geoff to cut and make some stainless pieces to finally fix this issue. They are visiting us this weekend and we put the bits together and drilled then installed with plated screws to fit snugly under the caps. The half pipe piece and the flat bar support the Aluminum step part so should give much more support than just the plastic cap.
JohnH
Nice!!! That should take some of the strain off the ends making it safer. 8)
How about putting a kit together for Fofums to purchase - recoup your design/manufacturing cost? Of course the whole importer/exporter thing might need to be "gotten around" for US purchasers.
From the pictures, that is a very nice fix!
One word of caution--- stainless steel and aluminum don't like each other at all when bolted together (experience from my past life in the marine industry). You will get corrosion at the joint big time. If you put a little Tefgel (Teflon based grease) on the joint, it will prevent the corrosion. Tefgel is available at West Marine and on line from several sources.
Why not just replace the end caps?
The new hand crafted metal supports look good, but since they are still held to the ladder with a screw and not a bolt/nut, it seems to me to be no more safer than the plastic ends which can only be attached with a screw. We just replaced the plastic ends and used new screws. I think the screw is the weak link.
Actually Barry as you are well aware, the screws are never the problem it is the breakdown of the plastic with UV so these are going to be very substantial due to the actual area of contact with the Alum' parts. Not the plastic.. Sorry did not mention the addition of the Teflon grease as it has been a busy day here. Relacing end caps is NOT the answer on their own(unless you plan to sell coach before they break again). The screws in all our ladders are perfectly fine.
Brett, the cost of these parts are negligible compared to the end caps
John
How about the oblong two hole foot pads for the stand offs? I can only find the round ones - LD4600 Die Cast Foot Pad - Price: .00 - Factory RV Surplus - 1611 W... (http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=2011) One of my roof ones is cracked in half (gulp)...
Dave , I have eight oblong foots for the ladder that came off my 280. Plus an assortment of SS Steel screws and 1/4 X20 bolts.
Yours if you want to pay the shipping. I can no longer use the stuff.
Give me a call or message.
Gary B
Subject of ladders has come up many times. I found marine stainless steel foots to work very well but are expensive. I also installed "backup" screws just under each step. Here's an old link with pictures: Check your ladder if you haven't already (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=12252.msg63634#msg63634)
If just adding those screws made a difference just imagine the effect of the SS pieces we put on which are supporting a lot more surface area of the metal part of step rung!!
JohnH
I have the same question. End caps go bad after 15-20 years, just replace. Quick and easy.
Hey guys, the reason for doing what we did was not to overide the ease of replacing them but to add strength and peace of mind to a bad design that you can safely climb up that ladder without having a fear of it collapsing under your weight. Just putting new ones on means sooner or later the sun affect will get these too!!
Kind of like all the other improvements we all do to our coach's instead of just leaving it the way it is ^.^d
JohnH
Just had to do this. Bought a full set of the plastic ones. One of mine was completely broken and almost left me on my butt with at least one broken bone. I noticed that all the ones on the engine door were cracked apart while all the ones on the cap were not. It made me wonder if oil or fuel vapors are a bigger issue than sun exposure.