I inherited my parents U280 Grand Villa after their death in 2004....so I am new here. I am in the process of getting it back up and running, it only has 25,000 miles on it. Since their death it has been stored inside a storage unit without humidity control. It has obviously had some condensation in it. I have changed the start and coach batteries. The alternator was locked and have had it rebuilt. Changed oil, filters, coolant, belts and tensioner.
The engine will start about 50% of the time and runs fine. The other 50% of the time it will not turn over. When this happens the shifter displays 2 small t's instead of N N. If the engine starts it displays NN then usually after a few seconds, or sometimes much longer, it returns to t t, If I kill the engine it will not restart. If I let it sit for a while it will start ....then do the same thing again. I have unplugged the ATEC , looked for loose wiring and changed the solenoid under the dash cover. I have read that the t t means that there is a communication issue. I have also noticed when it does this, the speedometer pegs out to 85 and the odometer is running. I let it run the other day for several hours and realize the odometer had moved over 100 miles and it never left the storage unit. I am sure that these problems are probably related. I would think that it might be a grounding issue, but everything else seems to be working.
I would love to get this thing up and running! First stop is for new tires...then to Nacogdoches to see about updating a few things...TV's, rear camera....maybe some new upholstery...
Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!! Here is a link to a video of the issues that I am having.
Dropbox - 1994 U280 (http://www.dropbox.com/sh/1tstj9oejlonwio/AAC61kUdV7_mhbotm34qWSfka?dl=0)
Sorry about the loud buzzing on the video...phone rang while filming...
Thanks!!!
Karl Shurtleff
Kingwood, TX
Emailed with James Triana @ Foretravel this morning. He thinks that critters might have gotten into the bays and chewed some wiring. He suggested having Allison look at the problem. Since the issue will not let the transmission go into gear it will have to be towed unless I can find a tech to come out....Any ideas on Allison service in the Houston area would be appreciated.
I'm thinking the tt on the Allison shift pad is also what is termed "snake eyes". You might try searching the forum for that term, especially for posts from Brett Wolfe (wolfe10 on the forum). Also, here's a link to the Allison diagnostic code retrieval/meaning from Barry's site Allison Transmission Codes Manual (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/allison_transmission_codes_manual.html) You might be able to pull some codes that way if there's more than a communications issue going on.
Thanks for the info I will try that. With the snake eyes up it will not pull codes though.
Karl,
I just noticed from your profile that you're in the north Houston area (Kingwood). Just letting the forum know in case a FoFum down there might be able to help in person.
Pop the top of the dash. On the left side are fuses-- two of them for the Allison.
Check with a voltmeter between the "out" side of each fuse and the ground gang connector at the front left corner.
If you do not have 12+ VDC with the ignition key on, the Allison WILL be stupid. Also, unplug and replug the gang connectors on the Allison ECU a couple of times to make sure they are well seated. Same for back of shift pad if there is a plug there.
And, before having it towed to Steward and Stevenson (Stewart & Stevenson | Home (http://www.stewartandstevenson.com/)), be sure you have voltage at those two fuses and also that the ignition solenoid is hot on both sides with the ignition on (it is under the dash just behind the fuses).
S & S is at I10 and the east loop in Houston and they are very good.
There is a guy near Ft. Worth that repairs those ECU's. I sent mine to him with keypad and he goes thru them both.
Transmission Instruments (http://transmissioninstruments.com/)
A viable option AFTER you verify power and connections to the shift pad and ECU.
A bad rectifier in the alternator can cause these types of problems. I would.try disconnecting the alternator and run on battery power to see if the problem persists.
Good luck. Hope you find an easy fix.
Jason
Jason,
Could you explain that? With engine off and ignition on, how would a bad alternator cause the "snake eyes" on this Allison shift pad.
Brett:
I suggested the alternator possibility because of Karl's statement:
"I have also noticed when it does this, the speedometer pegs out to 85 and the odometer is running"
I had this occur to a previous motor home and it was all because of the alternator. Alternator feeding bad current through the system.
Jason
Jason,
Understand and agree, noise from an alternator can cause all kinds of issues, but not if not running.
I have changed the solenoid under the dash and have good voltage there. I have not located the fuses and will look for them today. Are they mounted or loose...I do recall seeing a loose, black fuse case left of the solenoid...don't recall seeing two...I will look again. I was able to find the 30A connection in the bay that feeds to the ATEC and I have 12.8 VDC there. I did get the NN to stay on long enough to pull a 69 32 Code SPI COMMUNICATIONS LINK FAULT IN ECU ...Does that mean it is an ECU problem? I have unplugged the ECU and the keypad several times. I have not unplugged the plug on the transmission.. does it just pull off? I did not try too hard...did not see a squeeze clip on it.
Thanks for the info! Looking more and more like an ECU problem.
Just found this on his website....Looks like I found my problem!! I have Code 69-32
Instructions for WTECII system [ two digits on Your shift selector ]
For 1992;1993;1994 and early 1995 models and experience erratic or no display, especially when is cold weather or seen some codes, please log to RV Shifters (http://www.rvshifters.com) for more information. Have You seen code 69-32 already? Stop troubleshooting = 100% defective ECU!!!
I know it sounds silly BUT, when mine acted up I was told by the repair shop referenced here to use a hair dryer to thoroughly warm the ECU. I did , it worked and I was on the road. Happened after a long spell in storage.
Gary B
Karl,
If you do pull it off and send it to John that you mentioned and others have too, he won't give you the run around. He will check it and if nothing is wrong won't sell you something you don't need. If it is bad he has the knowledge to fix it and get it back pretty quick. He also fixes the shift pads to work like new. He's not cheep but lot cheaper than buying new.
Pamela & Mike
Thanks Gary... I will give it a shot. Did you have ever have to replace it or did that fix it for good?
I am going to give the hair dryer thing that a try that Gary mentioned...if not...I am going to pull the ECU and the shifter and send them both in.. You are correct, much cheaper than new!
That fixed it at that time, Much later , like 2 years, I had to send the ECU in for repair.
Gary B
Gary
Tried the hairdryer trick and it started right up! That confirmed that my problem was with the ECU...After about 30 min it started flashing again...heated it up and returned it to the storage garage....Sending it in..Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the information. I spoke to John this morning and he said definitely it is the ECU causing the problem. Then I heated it with a hair dryer and it started working....That convinced me! Packed up the ECU and remote and sent it FedEx to Transmission Instruments. He will have it Tues and said he would have it out this week. Thanks to everyone for all the help!...I will probably need more before I get this thing going.
Karl