Next on my list AFTER I get the generator running!! I would like to do that and the wheels before I put tires on it
fixed oopsie in topic title - Michelle
Now generator cranks ...but will not start. New fuel filters...oil and filter.....fuel pump pumping. Book says check low oil pressure and high temp shut down switches. Can I just jump across them?
I think you could but, check to see if clear fuel is being delivered by the fuel pump. I would be very suspicious of fuel lines, a little crack in a brittle line is all it takes to let air in.
You did try push the preheat button? 20 seconds?
If it's been sitting a long time you might have to bleed the injectors to get it to go.
yes ...preheated and opened the bleeder to purge air froM the system...no fire
Good fuel and fuel pressure
Split this into its own topic
Michelle
make sure you have power to the glow plugs.
Open the little "T" handled valve in the return injection line. It's right above the generator mount toward the rear of the rig. Use the switch for the glow function and get rid of the air for about 30 seconds. You should hear the electric fuel pump clicking rapidly. Close the valve. Using a 17mm, crack one of the high pressure injection lines right at the injector. About a half/three quarter turn will do it. Start the engine. Tighten the fitting once the engine is running for 20 seconds or so.
Pierce
Test the glow plugs.
Best way to start it is to crack one of the fuel lines into an injector. While holding down the "preheat" (which also runs the pump), crank it over. You should get fuel out of the open injector and it will start on 3 cylinders. Once running, close the open injector. If it dies, you have an infusion of air somewhere. Mine was cracks in the fuel line. If no air, it should run. But even if you have air it should start, THEN die.
Thanks! I will give it a try this evening ...fingers crossed!
If the generator dies after running a short time, pull the return fuel line off, check the rubber line size and then buy 3 feet or so from your parts store. Push one end on and place the other end below the surface in a container partial filled with diesel (2 liter Coke bottle would be perfect). When you push the glow switch, the electric pump will run and if bubbles appear in the container, there is an air leak in the supply hose or fitting. You could also run the generator and look for bubbles. Naturally, some air bubbles will appear when the pump is run for the first time with the new hose fitted from the fuel return to the container.
If you suspect there is a leak in the old fuel supply line, you could buy enough new hose to reach from the generator to the fuel tank top fitting but cut the hose as it comes through the wall between the tank and generator. With a double male, connect the new fuel line into the existing line at the wall/bulkhead and see if the generator continues to run. Our supply line was damp under the wrap starting about two feet toward the tank. Thats where the air leak was.
Only buy diesel compatible fuel line. I used a fuel line with a special liner and have had no trouble.
Pierce
Ok... I cracked the fuel line above the injector pump and got no fuel....opened the bleeder and have a lot of fuel. I talked to Jeff@ PowerTech and he said that the injector pump is locked and to remove the pump and soak it in diesel. I removed the pump and it looked brand new. No locked parts. I then reinstalled the pump....with the fuel kill solenoid off I tried to start it...IT STARTED! So...I called Jeff back He said that the white wire was the pull back and the red was the hold open....should have 12V while cranking on the white then 12V while running on the red...And I do...VERDICT...BAD FUEL KILL SOLENOID....check that off of the list :)
I just slapped my forehead. Simple things we over look.
Well that saved two hours of diagnostic time by the trainee tech didn't it ? I would say that you are now many dollars ahead with the help you got here. Thats the beauty of this forum.
Gary B
I am in awe of you incredibly talented "Tinkers". You guys are always there for those of us in need.
Thank you for your ongoing support. You are truly the best!
Marilyn
That's an understatement! What a huge help this forum has been so far and I am just getting started! Thanks to everyone!! Now I have my work cut out getting the sound/heat barrier installed behind the generator. Hopefully I can do it w/o pulling the generator all of the way out. I have removed the deflector that directs the air after it crosses the radiator...plan to remove the screen behind the front wheel as well. I ordered and will be using B-Quiet Ultimate. http://b-quiet.com/products-3/b-quiet-ultimate/
Before you remove the screen you should figure out if you do what can get in there. Rodents love wiring and dark places to build nests. That screen is probably there for a reason.
Gary B
:) I know all about rodent nest....this thing has been stored since 2002...every place that they could get to...there is a nest. My plan was to remove the screen for access...get the B-quiet installed ...then put it back. After looking at it, it looks to be welded in place. I think that I can cut it out and screw/a new mesh from the outside....I just really don't want to pull the generator to accomplish this task. Not sure what others have done, bu I am sure that all of the older units have had this problem. All of mine is falling off...in the generator compartment and over and around the engine. B-Quiet seemed to be a good solution.
On a 3rd thought...It might be easier and better to just remove the generator. :headwall:
Karl,
I wouldn't think twice about setting the generator out. It makes the job of replacing the insulation/sound deadening so much easer.
Pamela & Mike
When you slide the generator out, check the flex pipe on the exhaust. Ours had been lying against the inside wall and had burned through the black foam insulation. Was causing vibration also.
Look at your generator mounts from underneath. The broken rubber does not show from the top of the mount. Two different companies make mounts that will fit the generator. Worn mounts will cause the generator to drop down a little and allow metal to metal contact that is noticeable inside the coach.
Good time to install a fuel pressure gauge and a coolant temp gauge on the generator as well as checking the belt tension. See my previous posts for photos and how to do it.
Pierce
Thanks! That is good advice. Fun weekend ahead.... :D