I went to close the engine compartment and the passenger side latch won't hold. I fiddled with it for 10 minutes and came here for HELP!
Can anyone provide either repair info or if I can't repair it, can you provide a location where I can buy another.
Thanks
Ed
Have you tried lubricating it & then manually manipulating the latch several times? In the pic the latch looks like it hasn't been lubricated very much.
I agree with you about lubrication but the latch moves freely, the locking mechanism is what is not working. It does not stay in the locked position.
Ed
I agree with the lubrication and once you have done that and moved it (mechanism) many times just check that the cable has a touch of slack in it because if it is too tight it may be holding the lock part 'open". I am sure that once you get it lubed' all will be fine.
johnH
OK, a little deeper into the problem. Does the visible latching part (the part that hooks onto the fixed mating part) have spring pressure on any part of its motion? When you manually move the latch to its normally locked position, does it stay there?
If It returns to the open position because of spring pressure, then the part you cannot see is stuck in the unlock position. Possibly the cable used to actuate the latch is holding the pawl back. Try to verify that the cable is free to move in both directions so the pawl can move to its required position.
Normal motion should be: pull back on the cable end, the latch snaps open. While the door is open, push down on the bottom leading edge of the latch until the latch locks in what would be the engaged position. If it doesn't lock, the pawl is not traversing over behind the latch. This can be caused by the pawl spring being broken, the pawl stopped due to corrosion, or the cable is stuck in the open position.
Thanks Nitehawk and John
Just got back from reinstalling the latch. It was the pawl stopped due to........was the winning answer. I thought it was going to be the spring but it was all the gunk inside around the pawl. Once it was cleaned up it would lock fine.
New 1/4" cable, some white lithium grease on both sides and she's fixed. I replaced the cable because I didn't see a second allen screw that was holding the cable. I mangled the cable when I pulled it with needle nose pliers.
Cheers
Ed
Glad you were able to fix it. I never thought about crud accumulation causing the problem, but it is in the dirty area. Saved enough for a few gallons of diesel, I hope.
Does anyone have part numbers (L/R) for the rotary latch pictured above?
Only a FT part number, no documentation of a vendor number. You'd have to call FOT parts
I had mine repaired and replaced at FOT in April when I was there. They had the parts. They were able to still use the locking mechanism.
John M.
John,
What was rebuilt?
Maybe a new spring?
T-Man,
They replaced both latches and cables. They kept the lock handle.
John M.
There are some very good dry lubricants out the that don't gunk up from dust/ dirt etc. My favourite is a Teflon based product called mclube used by sailboat enthusiasts, long lasting very super slick, just don't get it on anything that relies on friction. Some sailors even apply it to there sail fabric to prevent dirt from adherering. Lots of possible uses on a coach such as slides, rubber suspension components, brake caliper slide pins, etc.
The rotary latches are $57.40 each, plus freight from FOT, they have a limited supply and are no longer made.
Those compartment latches are in all FT's since 1990 (maybe not the real new ones) and seem to be pretty stout with their Achilles Heel being the small spring. I am planning to cut out the two tubular rivets on an old one I have with a broken spring, replace the spring and reassemble it using shoulder bolts/nuts.
I have located the correct size shoulder bolts at McMaster Carr for a couple of bucks apiece, and just need to find some springs now.
Has anyone else tried rebuilding the latches?
Just replaced mine this past summer. Would not unlock. Had to in through the brake lights and remove the latch to open the back. The latch was all gummed up. Tried cleaning but opted for new so another 15 years of life. I felt is was cheaper to buy new than rebuild. The spring is in a very narrow space and I don't think you could really get it clean.
I have drilled out the rivets and found that they are special pieces, being smaller at the ends than they are in the middle. I may have to use a 5/16" bolt with a bushing,
but once I locate the right parts the fix should be simple.
I will keep y'all updated.