Anyone have a part number or advice on the fresh water fill valve? We have the electrical valve. Have 2 of them because we have 2 fresh water tanks. The front tank is super slow while the rear is very very fast and will kill all other water pressure in the coach while it fills. I know the source lines to the front tank are clear because if I open the drain lines up there the water flies out. So I assume the valve needs either cleaned, unstuck or replaced. Any guidance would be most appreciated before I tear it all apart.
Don't know if this will work for you, but in my case when my electric fill valve went bad I simply put in a manual one. cost less than $10.00 bucks and it really is not a big deal.
If it isn't like the one Steve posted prior to those FT used brass Parker Hannifin valves. Now with the age and various owners all bets are off as to what is there now. If you pull the coil off there should be a foil ID tag. If it is gone your valve should have been a 12F24C2148A3F which are still in production. If you add a " R " to the end of those numbers you will get the rebuild kit for it. Here is where I get mine from http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/manufacturer_detail.cfm?manu_id=93&mq=12F24C2148A3F&search=Go
Hope this is some help. Have also had reports that rebuild kits are on eBay on occasions. Your problem could be a stopped up orifice which can be cleaned out with a 1/16" drill bit or a torch tip cleaner.
Pamela & Mike
I just replaced the one in my Wanderlodge. I bought one off Ebay. It works fine. You can design what ever you need. Mine was $34.
Here's the link:
2 Way Brass Solenoid Valve NBR Seals DIN Gas Air Water Oil Electric Pneumatic... (http://www.ebay.com/itm/351051293567?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=620392978852&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
TOM
While I hear a relay click type noise I don't hear the louder thunking I hear in the rear. I believe whatever valves are there are original equipment. Thanks for the advice. I'll probably buy whatever replacement valve I can find and make it happen. Pricing out a seelevel system right now as I don't have any type of monitoring for the front tank level right now.
Had trouble with ours not filling. Took it apart three times before discovering a tiny flap of thread tape that was covering the small hole in the diaphragm that releases pressure so the valve opens.
After clearing that away it has worked fine since.
If the solenoid works and the diaphragm is good there isn't much else to go wrong.
On ours the orifice was clogged in the big housing. A 1/16" drill bit shoved through it cleared the calcium deposit as was suggested. Thank you all! These are very very simple. Not much to go wrong.