I may be getting it towed tomorrow... if things go right..
I bought a yellow paint marking pen
I'd like to mark the driveshaft in the event the operator wants to remove it..... So which end am I marking? The side that goes to the rearend? or to the trans? at both ends?
I don't have axle hub covers, and in case the wrecker guy doesn't either, I'm just covering my arse..
Thanks
Mark
Mark, to be safe, I'd mark both ends. Leaves no room for error.
Good luck!
Thanks, I guess I don't see the point.. I've never marked a driveshaft when removing them from my private cars or trucks... and to match the mark on both sides when reinstalling the shaft, won't the wrecker guy have to jack up the back of the coach to rotate the wheels till it lines up? if the driveshaft is the same a cars... the rear end side can only be one of two ways..
I just don't see him willing to do all that.. or am I just overthinking all of this ???
Mark
If it were me, I would have the operator mark it. That way the responsibility is his not yours.
If your drive shaft has closed yokes like mine, removing the axles is much better than removing the driveshaft. The cups of the ujoints have to be removed and it can be a bit of trouble to get them out. Then your ujoints are all exposed to dirt and grime.
It took me 30-60min to get my ujoints apart the first time.
Make yourself a set of axle covers out of plastic cutting board. Pulling axles is much quicker.
Also, those that say mark the driveshaft--there really isn't anything to mark unless sliding the shaft apart...which I coudn't get mine to slide apart anyway.
Thanks Krush,
I didn't make it there today.. Don't know how i'd go about making the covers.. wouldn't I have to pull
the axel to do that? I would need a pattern..
Does anyone know if an 1989 hub cover is the same as the 1990's Fortravels?
I have heard that others have used cardboard to make this on the spot as needed
Mark Take a piece of cardboard. Place it on the hub end after axle is pulled out. Use a hammer to dent the cardboard where the studs are. Push it over the stubs or cut X's to make it easier to push over studs. Put a couple nuts on the studs to hold it against axle end. I bet that TT Driver can show you and can probably do it in a few minutes. Heavy duty plastic axle end covers would be nice but not really necessary.
Gary B
This is how I marked my driveline. I marked a large D on the differential side and a large T for the transmission side. I then marked A to A with arrows pointing to each other across one yoke. And similarly B to B for the other yoke.
The purpose is to make sure it goes back together in exactly the same configuration which will maintain the original balancing. It makes sure each yoke doesn't get rotated 180 degrees upon reassembly as well as making sure the transmission and differential ends don't get switched. It not only helps the TT driver but it allows you to verify it went back just like it was before. When I had my coach towed the driver did the removal and re-installation - my recollection was he did it pretty fast which surprised me. He was working asphalt for both removal and re-installation. Upon re-installation the transmission output flange will rotate to match where ever the differential stops at when parked.
Dont forget if you have the full stainless axle hub covers they have to come off too.I think the lug nuts hold them on.
A piece of cardboard is also commonly used to close off axle opennings.
You can use an axle gasket to make a pattern, or just use the bolt pattern as it sits with the axle on. Depending on how far the tow is, cardboard needs to make a good seal. It is important that all the oil doesn't drain out and not lube the bearings!
Regarding driveshafts. I'm fairly certain the transmission and differential yokes are not balanced with the driveshaft. They are attached to their respective components.
Krush, Great idea on the axel gasket as a pattern... so your thinking the whole "mark your driveshaft" is a bunch of hooey?
Thanks everyone for all your advice.. I truly appreciate you....
Thanks John for the pics !
Mark
Do what makes you comfortable. Marking may be a good idea, because who knows what some of the tow truck guys will do! Unless the driveshaft is slid apart at the splines (which if possible, requires removing the seal or more....mine wouldn't slide apart when I tried it when swapping out my differential), it's not going to change orientation. I believe this would be the worry most people speak of. But, how many people have actually been under their coach, removed their u-joints, and even know what their driveshaft looks like?
I installed another differential and it had a brand new yoke. There were no marks on orientation...I just put it together.
All else said, I'd much rather have axles pulled. To pull the driveshaft the u-joints must be taken apart. And it's dirty under there and they likely will be contaminated with dirt and grit. Pulling the axles takes 2 minutes with a cordless impact---unless some clown sealed them with RTV in the past like they did on my rig!!!!!!!!! It took a while for me to get axle out and cleaned off....all because some idiot couldn't buy a $1 gasket or even make one out of paper.
Thanks Krush
You replaced your differential? The whole rear end ? yikes..!!
Mark
Here's what you'd be looking like if removed driveshaft OR axle.
Krush,
Good photos! Factory didn't do such a good job making the "cutting torch/sawzall" relief for the drive shaft. Would expect a curved flat bar to be made and welded in place. Not a real big deal but when you pay $$$...
Pierce
Krush,
Yes.. thank you for those pictures !!!
I noticed the frame cut out too..
Mark
Just a quick note,
You don't really have to have axle covers--- in a pinch you can stuff a rag in the hole where you pulled the axle to stop oil leakage and get going. You might have an oil swap, but you can wipe that up when you reinstall the axle---- just saying, done this more than once on my old F450.
That is oil seap, not swap, sorry about that.
A rag will work for a short tow. The bearings need oil, especially for a long tow. The axles are removed so the differential isn't spinning in the center and flinging oil all over inside the housing. If too much oil leaks out, none will make it's way to the wheel bearings. The bearings don't need much oil to be happy, but they can't run dry.