I used this on the yoke nuts (made for wheel lugs, and works great on them): Welcome To Our Home Page! (http://lugwrench.biz/) The reaction arm touches perfectly on the open and closed yoke. I had to buy a 1inch drive 35mm socket though (I love amazon.com). The 3/4 drive 35mm with an adapter was too long and cocking the entire tool to the side.
(Edited to delete oversize image - Michelle)
Krush,
Did you buy the heavy duty or standard duty tool. It looks interesting.
Larry
I have the 58:1 Multiplier Lug Wrench Tool Item# MIC58. $99 including shipping. It's chinese but has been holding up fine.
$78 delivered at: Truck R V Bus Lug Nut Budster Tire Wheel Removal Tool Wrench Torque Multiplie... (http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUCK-R-V-BUS-LUG-NUT-BUDSTER-TIRE-WHEEL-REMOVAL-TOOL-WRENCH-TORQUE-MULTIPLIER-/251348316675?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368)
Loosen then use an inexpensive battery gun to cut the time for complete removal.
This beats using a HD 1/2" air impact or buying a very expensive battery impact to remove the nuts.
Krush has me thinking about another "needed" tool for toolbox.
Pierce
Actually, the ingersoll rand cordless impact combo set (3/8 and 3/4) is what you really need. http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=IRAIQV20-201
I have the air 3/8 impact RATCHET, but I think I may get the cordless one too http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=IRAW5330-K1. The 3/4 cordless will take off my wheel lugs--all but the over torqued ones.
Get this....and my cordless IR 1/2 gun takes off clean/lubed lugnuts no problem.
(https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Flugwrench.biz%2FImages%2Fopening.jpg&hash=8cbf7050c6b414c4ca1ee3a5efa8a23e" rel="cached" data-hash="8cbf7050c6b414c4ca1ee3a5efa8a23e" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://lugwrench.biz/Images/opening.jpg)
Air powered jack, I think under $100 on sale at harbor freight. Mine works great.
Couldn't live without my Harbor Freight air/hydro 20 ton jack and the HF 3/4" air impact has no trouble with the lugs for wheel removal. Just have to have enough air pressure to drive the impact along with 1/2"airlines and fittings. There new 1/2" impact would probably work too.
I have a 1/2 impact gun. I should give it a try on the lugs. I think I will get the air operated bottle jack. I'm trying to think about how I would solve the nightmare scenario - a front blowout takes out the airbags as well. What do you do with the coach in that condition.
I have a 1/2 impact wrench, and I don't think it has enough to remove the lugs. I think you would have to go to 1 inch to get it done. Just my thought.
Best of travels,
My 1/2 cordless will take them off IF they are clean and not overtorqued. That multiplier will take them off regardless.
HF air/hydraulic jack works great and is often discounted. If you use a little anti-seize on the first few threads or so (but not on the area that contacts the wheel), you can reduce the required torque by 15-20% and eliminate the corrosion problem. With the reduced torque required, any good HF or other 1/2" air impact will easily pull the nuts. This method also extends the stud life.
Buy and use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs and never (unless you feel they are really savvy and use a torque wrench) let a shop or tow truck driver do it. The "no customers beyond this point" makes it difficult to monitor the wheel mounting. They almost always over tighten the lugs unless carefully watched and can damage the wheels, studs and make it hard to remove the wheel the next time.
If you ever drive on a salted road, pressure wash the underbelly including the brake area. In Germany, we had a yearly card and hit the car wash every evening after work in winter. They have sprayers that clean underneath as the car goes through. Think our northern states do also.
Pierce
I have one of these and it works great. 3/4" Torque Multipliers (http://www.x4tool.com/3-4-inch-torque-multipliers)
Mark
The torque multipliers are kind of expensive. I feel like a 3/4 HF impact gun would be the best purchase.
The one posted was 99 shipped. Somebody else posted bascially the same thing on ebay or somewhere for 80 or 90bux. includes socket.
A 3/4" gun will need a larger air hose and should have an air tank within a few feet of the gun or the friction loss through the hose will drop it's capacity way down. I welded a fitting on a stainless aircraft accumulator tank and carry it with us on longer trips. It allows the volume along with the pressure you need to remove more than one nut at a time. The gun, hose, fittings, etc will run more than $200 plus take up room. Add a bit more to include a tank.
At less than $100, Krush's torque multiplier is pretty foolproof and does not need any air. For less $$, a beefy extension bar, a piece of pipe and the flip socket will take almost anything off cheaply and with a bathroom scale plus some basic math, anyone can put it back on with an accurate torque setting.
Pierce
A good 1/2 IR titanium gun might take the nuts off too...with good air.
They really shouldn't be THAT tight. What's the spec, 400-500ft lb?
A 3/4" breaker bar, proper socket and 6' thick wall pipe that fits over the handle of the breaker bar is all you need for the front.
For the back also need an extension along with a jack stand, boards or blocks that act as the fulcrum.
Even a 98 pound weakling by just sitting on the end of the bar can generate: 98 X 6= 588 ft-lbs. Just think what a big strong guy can do.
And, to precisely torque lug nuts, etc, build one of these with the 6' bar (or have a good friend build a really nice one). With a standard 1/2" torque wrench you are good to go:
Torque Wrench extensions (http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/torque/torque.html)
Dave,
We should have a contest between you and Bill C for the nicest shop. Have not seen yours but Bill has cordless backup batteries in never ending quantities. Looks like the Energizer truck full of batteries that comes to tornado disaster hit towns.
Bet you don't have 185 psi going down the road :D
Krush,
Yes, some idiot will always find a way to take a 1" impact along with a 175 psi compressor and then fuse the nuts to the studs. I lube our threads and torque to about 325-350 ft lbs. Fortunately, our Alcoa wheels are forged not cast like most cars on the road.
From Alcoa page:" † Torque values given are for dry threads. Lubricated threads should be tightened 300 to 375 lbf·ft (405 to 510 N·m). Lubricate threads with a mixture of 25 per-cent colloidal graphite in cup grease or equivalent. Do not apply thread lubricant to ball seats of the nuts and wheels. Wipe it off if it is applied accidentally."
Non-lubricated studs and driving on a salted road are a sure way to damage the studs if not removed for an extended period.
Brett,
Good solution just welding a fitting for the torque wrench on the pipe. Anyone can divide the required torque by the number of feet and pull the handle down. Don't have to carry a bathroom scale ;) After loosening the nuts, one of the inexpensive 1/2 electric impacts will speed the process.
To make the R&R easy and not break your back, I jack the coach until the tire just barely clears the ground. That way, it's easy to pull the wheel, roll it to a location where it can remain vertical and then replace it with a gentle back and forth motion that does not require any lifting and only a little strain. Once it's lying flat, it's much harder to get upright again.
Pierce
Before my mechanic moved to Arkansas and started work in my shop he spent 40 years working on diesel rigs in Port Huron Michigan..Salt and corrosion on every nut and he used more torch gas than compressor air taking off nuts.. He puts anti seize on everything out of habit.. The stuff is a good idea regardless of what state's you run in.
I bought my torque multiplier used on ebay for around $100.
Mark
18-volt half inch fuel High Torque Impact Wrench w/ Friction Ring Kit |... (http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2763-22)
My brother picked one of these up and I borrowed it to take off my lug nuts. My Makita 18v impact wrench won't take off properly torqued lug nuts as its only rated up to 375 lbs-ft. but he Milwaukee takes them off with no issues. Well worth it.
My IR does it too...I think it's just ford vs chevy lol W7150 | 1/2" Cordless Impact Wrench | Ingersoll Rand (http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/am-en/products/tools/Iqv-cordless-tools/iqv20/w7150-1-2-20v-high-torque-impactool)