Today I picked up Forrest from Cummins Bridgeway.
The following was performed:
All safety inspections
R&R hydraulic pump belt
Grease chassis ((yes they know not to grease the brakes)
Install front hub cap
Charge dash A/C with R134a
R&R all filters, oil (supplied by me)
R&R compressor air dryer canister
Remove tank and replace fuel lines to/from tank
Much more if you can read the attached pictures.
That is about what FOT charged me for my fuel lines but I had an extra one to the Aquahot and a slide on the 01 with that steel beam down the right side. You had a bit more labor on other things but I bet it equalled out in the end.
The invoice does not detail, but both fuel lines were replaced (to & from tank). Also John, there was a lot of other work done for the stated price. Only 25 feet of hose did both return & feed lines. Yours likely used a lot more hose and hours of labor than Forrest 34 foot coach.
Mine used more labor as it was a slide with the steel beam. I think we had about 6 hours more. I also had the AH too. The distance is not really an issue as the middle of the coach is all open and they could deal with that section pretty fast. In fact all the lines were thru there and laying on the bay floors in the first few hours. It was getting it back to the engine that was the issue. Only had one side to attack it from.
We've heard that before. Easy to check.
Good luck,
This is a photo showing the new fuel line with crimped fittings,
Peter,
Those look like reusable hose fittings not crimped.
Reusable;
reusable hose fittings - Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?q=reusable+hose+fittings&rlz=1C1CHWA_enUS615US615&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=623&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=nOZpVdC8KoiXgwT-p4GQCQ&sqi=2&ved=0CGgQsAQ&dpr=1)
Crimped;
crimped hydraulic hose fittings - Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?q=crimped+hydraulic+hose+fittings&rlz=1C1CHWA_enUS615US615&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=623&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=FudpVfi0LIWvggTS5IGADA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg#imgrc=BOYX5BLIaKBoaM%253A%3BTH8sr263z3nAHM%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Flestoilesroses.net%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2015%252F03%252Fhydraulic-hose-end-fittings-hydraulic-hose-everett-wa-hydraulic-hose-end-caps-hydraulic-hose-elbow-hydraulic-hose-expansion-hydraulic-hose-end-crimper.jpg%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Flestoilesroses.net%252Fpractical-tips-in-choosing-hydraulic-hose%252Fhydraulic-hose-assemblies-hydraulic-hose-clamps-hydraulic-hose-cutter-hydraulic-hose-crimping-tool-hydraulic-hose-reel-hydraulic-hose-and-fittings-hydraulic-hose-adapters-hydraulic-hose-austin%252F%3B745%3B554)
Thanks Rick. Shows ya how much I know...LOL
Crimped or not, one heck of a deal for that amount of work.
They even washed Forrest and steam cleaned the engine bay! It is a good deal. I would recommend this crew to do their work to anyone without hesitation.
considering using C.B. South Lyon, MI location to replace timing chain cover gasket (and stop oil from leaking there). Berndt is so far away. However, I had a bad experience w the South Lyon shop when I had a Barth serviced there.
Hey Peter, you must be relieved to have new fuel lines. I keep wondering about mine and when they might decide to start leaking.
Jerry,
I kept the intake fuel line with me. I need to clean it up a bit so it will show well in a picture. To me they looked fine with no evidence of leaking anywhere. This is the line from the tank to the intake of the primary fuel filter. The othe hoses from the out take to the primary all the way to the engine fuel pump were replaced 2 years ago and those were leaking at one of the fittings. Perhaps the lines to/from the tank are not as vital as those near all the heat from the engine.
Finally got around to posting a couple pictures of the original equipment intake fuel line.
Can you cut it where one of those cracks are and take a picture of the cross section?
I'm running around like a chicken w/o a head getting ready for golf and camping starting Sunday. I'll do my best to get that done.
(edit) The cracks seem to be where the push fittings reside. It would seem to me that those areas would not suck air. I likely could have run with these lines for quite some time. Your thoughts?
Mine has similar crack near the fittings. And a tiny crack on a tight bend where hose lies on top of the tank. I'm just curious to see what the inside looks like. No rush! If you really feel peachy, cut it in a few places down the length of the whole hose and inspect. Thanks in advance.
So I got a chance to perform surgery on the hose today. Some of the pictures didn't come out too clear. I'm no expert but I think this hose could have gone a lot longer. It was smooth all the way through all the incisions that I made.
That said the condition of the hoses near the engine after the primary filter needed to be changed.
Peter,
Heat will certainly speed the breakdown of rubber-based products. I now I have replaced engine room sections of heater hose, using metal barb to barb sittings and double hose clamps. Would want something better for splicing fuel hose, but that could be an option for others with degraded fuel hoses only in the engine room.
That doesn't look too bad to me either. But all it takes is one little spot to suck air in! Better safe than sorry.
It's much cheaper to repair something like that on your terms instead of being stranded and getting repairs on their terms.
The return line on my 96' U320 started leaking near the engine shortly after I bought it. I used the cut, hose barb and splice routine as a temporary fix on that hose until I could arrange new fuel lines and it worked fine. Didn't take long until the supply line between the water separator and engine started leaking also. Once the degradation starts, it is just a matter of time.
The new fuel lines improved engine starting and gave me a great deal of peace of mind. Had them done by Taylor Automotive in Dickenson Texas. $1100.00 with me furnishing the hose (Wilco Supply, Houston). Hose cost was $170.00 total. 10 hours labor.