Just closed the rear slide. Everything cycled normally. Started coach and pushed travel. Coach went to travel height, but the travel light did not come on and the Level System light stayed on. Went back and opened slide again and it went too far open. Stopped slide. Closed slide and now it's too far closed. What now? I am assuming it is not hitting position switches. It will not open now. What is the best plan of action?
Slide moving. With help of dear wife I was able to position slide correctly. System now ready to travel. Don't know what broke, but I can now get home.
Keep us posted when you find out what the problem is.
Glide block stop is broken. Limit switch is bent out of the way. Here are some pictures. Will look in more detail tomorrow.
Great job Steve. Now that you know what broke, I am guessing that you can fix it. ;D
Fixing it isn't the problem. Why did the bolts break? What does the switch control?
I would give HWH a call. Randy in Tech Support is great and he can answer those questions. 800-321-3494. It sometimes takes them a while to get back to you - days anyway but if you can wait they are worth the time. They will also provide replacement parts with instructions on how to install them. We have called HWH a number of times and the results have always been positive.
I had a similar switch on our large slide that worked with the HWH system that signaled when the slide was in or out. When the wires were inadvertently cut it blew a small fuse in the "brain" and the slide would not move. HWH helped me trouble shoot this issue, found the small fuse that was blown and advised how to replace the switch. We purchased the switch from HWH and in 3 days we were back to normal. Randy talked me through the whole thing. I like HWH - good people, good company. Their biggest problem is telephone response time. If you are stranded by the side of the road they do respond faster.
You could also try FOT if you are a Premium Motorcade Member or MOT. I must admit that the advise I got from FOT the few times I have called them was wrong and if I had done what they suggested the problem would not have been solved which would have cost more time and $$$$. Just my experience. I have not called MOT for technical support but I understand that they are also responsive and good.
Good luck - I think that in finding the problem you can also find the solution and fix it. ;D
From a James Triana email this morning, "The stop bolt broke over time they fail due to the force that is applied against it. The switch is the in and out limit switch."
I am assuming the switch bracket failed due to the residual pressure after the switch stopped pump. That means the outer limit switch will be broken also. Since it looks like a Grade 5 bolt, I may replace with a Grade 8 bolt. I haven't looked to see if I have room to use a larger bolt.
Has anyone else had a sheared slide block bolt? This coach only has 35,000 miles. I know there are coaches out there with slides that have three times that many miles.
Just a thought, if the grade 5 broke, and you replace it with a gr8.... What will break, if the bolt doesn't ?
I asked James the same thing. I am curious why such a low mileage coach would break a bolt.
Both bolts are sheared in the threads. This is a HWH part. Why they designed the part so there was no shoulder to impart shear on the shank instead of the threads, I have no idea.
Steve,
I sent you a PM.
Larry
The Foretravel Service Manager emailed me this afternoon and indicated I should definitely use Grade 8 bolts. Those of you that have slides may want to raise your bed and see if you have Grade 5 or Grade 8bolts. It's much easier to change them before they break.
Steve - so this was a slide with the bed in it? Ours is a wardrobe slide (well, actually a desk) and has not had a problem. I wonder if it's unique to the bed slides?
I don't know, but I will be at FOT June 22. I intend for them to check rigging of the rear slide and the bolts on the front slide.
HWH is supposed to get back with me by Friday. I will ask. If I am coherent after dental surgery Friday morning, I will forward their comments.
Not that the switches are the issue, but I personally dislike them a lot. I have those switches on my bin doors and they are very prone to corrosion and other issues.
Resurrected this thread because slide stop bolts broke again. Grade 8 bolts. Since last time I learned the switch only works the bedroom ceiling lights that are covered by a closed slide. The in and out limit switches are Hall effect sensors mounted to the rear of the bed frame. This time the bolts failed when the slide was opening. I stopped as soon as I heard wood cracking. I know you have to stop the slide so the inner switch is triggered or the travel light won't illuminate. What does the outer sensor do?
It's been 3 years since the previous failure. That means about 45,000 miles and more than 100 cycles of the slide. I am considering using a pin centered between the attach bolts to take the shear stress off of the stop mount bolts. Since the manual says to continue pressing the slide switch until the red light goes out, you would assume nothing else would be damaged by strengthening the stop plate mounting.
I'm resurrecting this old thread because I have the exact issue except for the broken bolt.
The bed slide doesn't stop where it should going in or out. I will attach photos of the two switches and the magnet that triggers them. Does anyone know what the spacing should be? I can't imagine two bad hall effect switches.
I think about 1/4-3/8 of an inch.
I will check that. I sure like all that being right there under the bed. I'm the meantime I can raise the bed and see where to stop it which is good.