A couple days ago I started the motor home engine. About 5 minutes into the run the dash instruments suddenly died. The engine continued to run. I then turned off the ignition and tried to restart. There was no response. No clicking, nothing. I haven't taken the time yet to do any diagnostics. Just wondering if anyone has a clue as to what happened. My unit is at 1998 U270 with C8.3 engine. Any help will be appreciated.
A failed IGNITION SOLENOID will sure cause those symptoms.
Turn the ignition key on. Turn on dash HVAC fan. If it runs the solenoid is good. If it does not, Allison shift pad does not illuminate, etc, that is your likely suspect.
As a test, open the dash and give it a light, sharp rap with the handle of a screwdriver. If that frees it up, replace at your first opportunity.
It is also possible that you have an ignition switch issue or wiring issue between switch and solenoid. To test, take a small jumper wire from the "always hot" side of the ignition solenoid to the POSITIVE signal terminal of the solenoid. It carries very little current, so even a small gauge wire is fine. It that makes the solenoid click and everything operate, you issue is with the switch or wiring.
I have already checked the HAVC fan switch. It does not work. Haven't checked the shift pad. Don't want to appear overly ignorant but how do I recognize the solenoid...........and can you tell me exactly where it is located.
Grover,
It should be behind the removable kick panel in front of the passengers seat. It will be located mounted near the floor almost in the center of the electrical panel that you will uncover when you remove the kick panel. Now how to remove the kick panel: take your hands and grab the lip under the bottom of the panel and give it a tug. It will come loose from the bottom then you can let it down to get access to what is behind it.
It will look something like this http://www.lamustang.com/SQLCart/Images/Large/101247.jpg
Pamela & Mike
I think I know what you are describing. I've seen it before. From what Brett was saying I was wondering if it was under the dash cover. I guess it is located in different places on different models. I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks.
Don't be frugal.. buy a good one.. pc
I'm no hurry. Can you recommend a good one?
Blue Seas is the favorite. It must be rated at 200amp continuous.
Best info here with part number by Brett Wolfe
Lost power today (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23466.msg182284#msg182284)
Your solenoid will probably look something like this photo
Good luck,
Here is the good one (Blue Sea 9012). Photos of it installed under the dash cover in our GV. Your solenoid location may differ.
Blue Sea Systems 12 24 Volt L Series Solenoid Switch 9012 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-Systems-12-24-Volt-L-Series-Solenoid-Switch-9012-/371311046653?hash=item5673dceffd)
That's a good price on ebay. I think I'll get that one. First I need to confirm that that is the problem. I have a good idea it is.
When the ignition solenoid fails, it puts you on the side of the road. Even IF it is not the cause of your current problem, you should change it out. Once you install the Blue Sea, you will never again have to worry about THAT particular problem. The "peace of mind" alone is worth the price of admission. If the old solenoid is still functional, you can put it away as a spare, or (as I did) use it to replace one of the other 2 HD solenoids on your coach (the "Boost" solenoid and the "Aux Start"solenoid). On our coach, those are located in a hostile environment underneath the frame behind the rear wheels - tend to get very crusty and rusty over the years.
Here is the situation. I have power coming into the solenoid. When I turn the ignition switch on it send power to the solenoid switch but nothing comes out the other side. I tapped on the solenoid but nothing happened. Looks to me like a bad solenoid.
Yup. Like many of us have done, replace it with the BlueSea electronic switch. Take a look at the specs-- I have yet to hear of one failing.
L Solenoid - 12/24V DC 250A - Blue Sea Systems (http://www.bluesea.com/products/9012/L_Solenoid_-_12_24V_DC_250A)
Brett, that the one I ordered. Got it off Ebay for $150. Thanks to you and other for all the help. I'll update this thread after I get installed and going. Again, Thanks.
Grover,
If you need to move the coach before the new solenoid (actually electronic switch) comes in:
Label all the wires on one of the large lugs on the solenoid-- tape, bread tie, etc.
Remove all those wires from that lug and COMBINE THEM with the wires on the other side.
Electrically, you have doe the same thing as closing the solenoid.
Be sure to return wires to their original position to "turn off" those circuits powered by the solenoid.
Thanks Brett. I'm at home and am not planning on going anywhere within the next week. The part is coming from Michigan. I live in the southern tip of Illinois. I should have the part by Saturday or Monday. It looks like an easy swap out.
Yup, just disconnect the chassis battery before you start if there is any chance that you could touch the live wires or any metal tool you use on them to any piece of metal on the coach. Arc welding is scary.
Upon disconnecting the solenoid I discover what appears to be a resistor connected between the negative and positive post of the switch. It is inscribed with the letters and numbers NTE5800. What is this and does it need to be installed on the new Sealand solenoid?
Hi Grover,
It is a diode installed in reverse polarity on the relay's coil to prevent voltage spikes from going back down the line. They are typically described to stop "back EMF" - the higher voltage spikes every time a DC coil is energized or de-energized. Voltage sensitive devices on the 12 volt system could be damaged by these spikes were they not prevented from occurring at the source.
There also could be a diode across the relay's output terminals or on a switch to help to eliminate chatter and pitting of relay or switch contacts.
Jim
2002 U320
Jim, do you know if this protection could already be built in the Sealand solenoid? There is no mention in the instructions.
Hi Grover,
No, I don't know, but as good a device as they sell, I wouldn't be surprised.
My guess is, no it is not included.
Jim
2002 U320
How about some of you guys that have installed the Sealand solenoid..........is it necessary to install a diode to protect circuit? Or is it built into the solenoid? Can't seem to find any info regarding this question.
Grover,
I just installed the new solenoid, no diode.
Perhaps Jim or someone else more conversant in the electronics field can tell you if this would be needed/a good idea on an electronic switch vs solenoid.
I found this statement regarding the Sealand solenoid.........."Ignition protected - safe for installation aboard gasoline powered boats". Is that the answer I'm searching for?
Grover, whether the Sealand has a diode or not you can still install another external, one just reverse the polarity from the positive and negative of the circuit. Jim
Grover, if the switch carries high current then a diode probably is a good idea there, otherwise you put the diode on the source of EMF - the solenoid. Jim
Jim, You're right. If is doesn't hurt anything I just as well install it. An extra measure of safety. Thanks for your knowledge and help.
Well, I have the solenoid installed and to my surprise it works. I went ahead and reinstalled the diode for an extra measure of safety. I did have to do a little carpenter work but that worked out fine. A very neat install. By the way, for those who might read this in the future I want to correct something..........the solenoid is Blue Sea and not Sealand as I have been stating in my post. I must have had crap on my mind.
Thanks to all for the help you provided. Including the recommendations to replace with a Blue Sea solenoid.
Where is the ignition solenoid located on a 2004? I don't see it in the passenger side wiring. Thanks.
Larry, this thread seems to be dead. You might want to start a new thread for the answer to your question.