Appears that the diesel leak I had returned. I had Lone Star Truck (Tyler) install a new lift pump as the old one was leaking. (my mistake).
The leak got into the engine computer and wire harness shutting down the engine and the transmission. Duck's Garage in Benton found that a washer was not installed in a banjo fitting causing the leak and repaired the leak. They are now trying to dry out the engine computer and wiring harness. Sometimes we cause our own mess by using unqualified but big companies to make repairs. After this I will always try to use MOT for all service. Lone Star Trucking has many locations and should be capable of installing a lift pump on a cummings engine. I have called and filed my complaint with the service manager and he is to get back to me. DAN
After having made 3 trips to get my brakes fixed in Houston I ended up going to MOT to get them fixed. Next time if I can, I am going to go to MOT first `
Another update # 2: Got the call today from Duck's Garage in Benton and the coach is running normal. Don Godsey indicated that the diesel leak was the cause of the problem and fixed that with a washer left off by the liftpump installer. He cleaned the engine computer and let it dry over night. This morning he plugged it back in said it was working normal and everything look great. Not fried. Don indicated I could pick up anytime as he gave me his cell phone # and just call him and he will meet me at his shop. Great guy and again comes to the aid of broken down trucks and RVs on a weekly basis but does most of his work in his shop. He also does some type of radio show. I am pleased that the engine computer is Ok as that would have been expensive to replace.
Cummings in Little Rock told me they would not look at it when I called them as it sounded like a chasis problem. They could have made this repair but made no effort to assist.
Dan
Glad your coach is ok. This is exactly why we try to plan a visit through NAC on our travels to get the work done right. MOT always has helped us especially the times we limped in, afraid to turn it off because we didn't know if it would start again. They took us in, had Keith Risch look at it, found the problem and cured it. Got us on our way that same day.
For engine work, don't forget Bernd. His crew does a good job and Beau really knows his stuff. Nice to have choices in NAC.
Don't forget the Flying Fish in Little Rock if you want to "refuel" before heading home Dan.
Cya down the road
Ted
Talked to Don at Duck's Garage in Benton and all systems are back up except it apprears the Battery Isolator is out and the house batteries are not being charged by the alternator. He by passed it by moving a wire. Does anyone know if this is a part I can get and where? Being Friday he did not try to get the part. I am on my way to Benton in the morning to bring the coach back and Jill at MOT has worked me in on Thursday to ck things out and replace the Battery Isolator if need be. I learned that the HWH system and Generator starting works off the house batteries. I tried to go back and read prior post about this item but did not find the info needed. Tks DAN
Many RV stores stock battery isolators. Suspect yours is a DIODE-BASED battery isolator. You will need to verify that it is rated for the capacity of your alternator (i.e. 200 amps if you have a 200 amp alternator).
It can easily be bypassed until it is replaced. So you can easily drive to your location with the alternator charging both battery banks.
Mark each wire in its original location so it can be returned to that position.
Now, remove all the wires from the other lugs and add them to any one of the lugs. Said another way, all the wires are now on the same lug. Be sure to return the wires to their original position when you get where you are going, particularly if dry camping, as you could now run down all the batteries as they are combined.
Brett: Tks for the quick response. I will ck on my way back to see if I can locate one. So auto parts stores probably do not carry this item? My best bet to find one will be in Texarkana or Longview. DAN
Dan,
Assuming you are home ATM, not sure when you are picking up the coach but if not until next week call MOT parts if they are not too far out of your way. We have been very pleased in recent days with the depth of their parts inventory.
I would call MOT as Michelle said and if they do not have it then they will order it so you can have it installed when you get there. I will be at MOT on the 13th. I hope you are long gone by then but if you get the chance to stop by and say Hi. We would love it.
I ordered a Sterling zero voltage drop battery isolater from Bay Marine Supply in San Diego last week. It was dropped sipped the next day fron Sterling, got it in three days. Shipping was less than $9. You can get different amp capacities, one or two alternators, one, two or three battery banks (including the starter)
Sterling ProSplit-R – Zero Voltage Drop Battery Isolator (http://baymarinesupply.com/store/electrical/wiring/isolators/sterling-prosplit-isolator.html)
Install this week.
Roger
Roger,
That looks like a good option.
But, there is a real KISS way to do it. Just use a marine ON-OFF battery switch such as this one: PERKO Inc. - Catalog - Battery Switches - Heavy Duty Battery Disconnect... (http://www.perko.com/catalog/battery_switches/99/heavy_duty_battery_disconnect_switch/)
Rated at 450 amps continuous/1200 intermittent.
Merely put chassis battery, alternator output (from B+) and alternator sense wire to one lug.
Put house battery to the other lug.
With switch off, chassis battery is charged any time the engine/alternator is running. And no loss of voltage due to diodes.
House battery is charged ONLY when the switch is turned ON. If you are on shore power overnight and will be again tonight, why pay diesel to run the alternator at higher output to OVERcharge the house bank (putting 14+ VDC into a fully charged battery is overcharging it).
When storing, leaving the switch on allows your converter or inverter charger to charge both banks. And, it is a very high amp capacity battery combiner/boost option.
With most Foretravels, it is possible to use existing wiring and mount the switch at the foot of the bed where it is easy to access.
Just another option.
Just got home from Litttle Rock: Left at 5:30 this morning and got back with coach at about 4:10 pm. All ran great except I had to thow out everything of the fridge and understorage refrigerator. Could not take a chance as it appeared to have gotten hot at some point. They moved one wire on the long box under the bed (middle wire I think) towards the passenger side of the coach on the same box. Assume this is the battery Isolator but I agree with your advice, I am call MOT on Monday for parts and will take there to ck things out. I really appreciate everyone's help as this is my first to have the coach towed. How many amps should show on the screen. Gen off and motor running about 11.9// gen on 13.8 and engine running //plugged in 9.3 engine off. Thats what I have with the isolator by passed. DAN
With the isolator properly bypassed (see my post above) you should be seeing close to 14 VDC.
Important question-- are the readings you posted off the chassis or house bank? This is critical, as it will tell you how to safely drive (without risking either engine or Allison computer OR house systems. Said another way, do NOT operate anything on less than 12.2 VDC-- it would be an expensive experiment.
PM if you need help-- we will be on the road tomorrow, but will have phone service.
Brett tks this is the readin on the javelina screen 13.2 plugged in to 50 amp. DAN
I was going to turn the inverter off, but it appears to be charging at 13 VDC DAN
Dan:
Keith Risch at MOT is great with the electrical issues. I limped in last fall with having my generator running to get enough juice to run. He found bad connections in my battery terminals- replaced with military terminals. I asked him about keeping the house batteries charged and he recommended and Echo charger, which I had installed. Issues solved.
Harvey Nelson told me he had an Echo charger installed 7 years ago and is still using the same batteries, so it is working well for him.
Hope you can get to MOT ok, they will take care of you once you are there.
Actually, the Xantrex Echo charger is used to keep the CHASSIS battery charged. When on shore power, the converter or inverter/charger keeps the house battery charged. The Echo charger then charges the chassis battery when house batter voltage is at fully charged levels.
Thanks for the clarification Brett. Your explanation is what I was told at MOT.
Got the battery isolator installed and guest what :)) :)) Today I got a ck from "Good Sam's Emergency Road Service" for the full amount of the cost of my tow while in Little Rock. After being told no by the phone answering people twice// I got Customer Service and they sent me a claim form. Filled it out and now I got the full check back in the mail. They could have just done that in the first place but at least if you keep greasing the wheel it will finally turn. So the lesson here is keep asking until you get to talk to a decision maker. :dance:
Don't give up before the Miracle!