For various reason, I have not yet added water to my RV after winterization last Fall (new toilet, third valve, etc.). Have been working on replacing the black and gray tank valves and adding a third valve. In the process, I have become much better acquainted with some of the inner workings than I had intended.
One of the things I discovered was a water line that went under the gray tank. Curious, I looked at the adjacent bay and saw this behind the reels:
See first photo.
I cannot get back to it, but my camera phone can get a closer look:
See second photo.
It appears that the "air gap" was originally completed with the gray fitting, attaching the line on the right, to the fittings on the left.
I assume this occurred by inadequate winterization procedures that left water in that location. When it froze, the gray fitting broke and allowed the pipe to become disconnected. I cannot tell from this image what fitting is missing. Somehow, I have to replace the broken gray fitting with a fitting that can affix to the brass part of the PEX line on the right. I suspect I will have to cut out the existing PEX fitting to install a new one. I had good luck (I hope) attaching the water pipe to the toilet line with a male plug that fit into the PEX line, fastened with a metal clamp.
To access the pipe that deep into the bay, I am going to have to remove at least one of the reels. The water reel is probably much lighter. It is self contained, so access to its pipe (that is now broken) would not be a problem with removal. Removal of the electric reel is a little more difficult because of its weight. While plugged in, most of the wire is off the reel, so weight should not be too bad. The problem is it will not move much without disconnecting the heavy wires that attach it to the RV.
My questions are:
Has anyone had to make such a repair?
Can I get a fitting to attach from the PEX line to the brass fittings bundle? What do I need?
Do I have to remove both reels to access the damaged fittings?
Is there a better way to fix my problem?
Thanks for any advice or recommendations from anyone,
Trent
The black line appears to be a zip tie holding the connections in place on the white bracket. I could gain some of the missing length by removing the zip tie and hanging the connections from the white bracket, instead of on it. The somewhat flexibility of the blue PEX line could probably make up the difference.
One part of the equation solved. How about the rest of the problems?
Thanks,
Trent
You've got blue line, brass 90, another brass fitting (which I believe is the back flow preventer), and then the broken connector.
Our back flow preventer never sealed properly, so I removed it and put a quarter turn SharkBite valve in its place. Works a lot better. I'm sure you can find a male pipe thread to female SharkBite adaptor to fit into the brass 90. Then short piece of 1/2" PEX, then the valve, which is female SharkBite on both ends. White line (cut off damaged connector) plugs into other end of the valve.
I'd remove the water reel to gain work access - lighter, simpler and as you say, already disconnected!
If you've never used SharkBite fittings before, you will be AMAZED at how simple they are! Cut the tubing, push the fitting on the tubing, DONE!
Push Fit Plumbing Fittings & Quick Connect Pipe Fittings - SharkBite (http://www.sharkbite.com/product-category/push-fit/)
Chuck,
Thank you for the detailed analysis and step-by-step directions. I have not used SharkBites before, although I almost did when installing my new toilet. Wound up cutting the PEX and inserting a male adapter, which I secured with a clamp. Obviously, I have not been able to check it out yet.
In fact, when I finally get water into my system, I will have several places to check for unwanted dripping (new bathroom faucet, new shower head, and new toilet, in addition to this repair), but I have high hopes!
Trent
Trent, I am a bit late answering this one but you can buy the same kind of connector at any plumbing or RV store then just cut the Pex line and put new one on. Use a pex ring and clamping tool (compression). reading your comment on another pex repair you say you put a clamp on it. Take that off and use the proper pex ring with the right tool or you will have big leaks at that joint. Pex fittings need the right rings and clampingt to "shrink" the ring.
johnH
John,
Thanks for the information.
When I was looking at PEX fittings a couple of weeks ago, it looked like they had two types of bands. The normal smooth band that you find throughout our Foretavels. There seemed to be another one, possibly designed to be used without a crimper. Do you know anything about the second type?
Thanks,
Trent
The second one is a stainless steel clamp that uses a special crimper. I have both kinds, and the second type is much easier to use, especially in tight spaces. Also, a little easier to remove (No, can't be reused).
Don
Okay, already! :-[
I have ordered a crimper and rings.
Thanks for the good advice,
Trent
Second on the Shark bites. Easy to use and available at HD and Lowes as well as Amazon. Slip fit fittings in 90'a, couplers and check valves. 1/2". No crimping, no tools. ;D
Pix fittings are ok if you have a good crimper and you can get to them easily. That being said shark bite fittings are very easy to install, have used in hard to replace areas with great results and no leak. Home Depot has them in stock.
Bill
I am late to the party on this one. I would use nothing but shark bite fittings. The only precision required is to make a square cut. If you err you can remove the fitting and reuse. I keep a bunch of spare fittings in my plumbing tool box. Can you tell I am partial to shark bite fittings.
Roland