I moved my coach today to permanent, climate controlled storage. Electricity is limited. No 50amp, less 30amp, and plentiful 110v.
Is a 110 hookup enough to keep the batteries charged and the refrigerator running on electric vs. propane? Nothing else will be running.
The interior temperature doesn't go below 45 - 50 in the winter. Does temperature effect these connections? Would 110 be okay in the winter? Is this warm enough to avoid winterizing?
Thanks all.
Jeff
I store mine outdoors in florida under roof but open air. 110v works fine for battery charging and some times I leave frig. on. Never had to winterize. While we get frost its never been for a long period and I have never had anything freeze.
I store mine indoors and I use a adapter that has a 50amp female and then one 110amp leg and a 30 amp leg with a 110 adapter on that. It doesn't give 50 amps but does show two legs on wall screen each capable of running inverter charger and home refer. been using that for 5 years. really saves the batteries. If I want to charge starting batteries I put on boost for a day.
Jeff,
You will use the 30 male to 50 amp female adapter AND the 15 amp male to 30 amp female adapter. Then you plug that into any standard 15/20 amp "house type" outlet.
Just fine for battery charging and running the refrigerator on shore power.
Just set your inverter/charger to its lowest setting (power share or power save) or if a converter and batteries are deeply discharged, leave the refrigerator off until batteries are mostly charged (charge rate has decreased).
Just to clarify, RV 30 amp is a 110V connection. I'm guessing you mean there are 15 amp 110V outlets available.
Do you know if they are on separate circuits/breakers (i.e. if you have a circuit/breaker dedicated to your spot)? Several storage facilities ago, we ran into an issue where we thought we had a dedicated 15 amp circuit; turns out it was shared by 4 coaches :headwall: and one of them left his electric heat on in the winter, constantly tripping the breaker. Cost us house batteries >:(
I have built the same setup and if you are clever and have a multimeter it is possible to plug the 30/15 amp plugs into opposite 110V legs given the right extension cord. Wont run at 50 amps of course but will give you a true 30 amps with the neutral conductor carrying two out of phase 15amp returns...
(And I realize while typing this that if it does not make sense to you its probably best you don't rely on this method...)
Cheers
Chris
VERY unlikely that the two 15 amp plugs (one outlet) in any storage facility are on different sides of the supply A/C or even on separate breakers.
Your 30 to 50 adapter absolutely will connect the ONE hot on the 15 or 30 amp service to both hots on the RV 50 amp side.
Jeff: If you are going to leave the refrigerator on then I would install fans on the back refrigerator blades to keep the frost off. I put three on mine based on a suggestion on how to do it on the forum. Connected the fans to the permanent power at the light so they remain on all the time. Keeps the frost off and adds to the cooling. Fans are two to a section and you can get them on Ebay for less than $20 each.
Thanks all.
Michelle, yes, I meant 15 amp 110 outlets. I will ask if they are dedicated, good call. I'd be willing to pay an electrician to put one in for me, cheaper than new batteries.
Chris, wut? :D
Dan, thanks for the suggestion. I'll do a forum search to see what I find.
Our storage facility has 15 A 120V outlets but each circuit serves 6-8 RVs so low amperage battery maintainers are all anyone can use without danger of tripping a breaker. The stated limit is 2 Amps. Fortunately, a BatteryMINDer and a Trik-L-Start were enough to keep all 6 batteries (including the 3 8Ds) charged.