More just to vent than to hope that someone can find it by remote control, but we've picked up a pretty good sized leak somewhere around the bottom of the radiator. Most of it seems to be coming out somewhere behind the fan shroud. I am pretty sure it isn't the lower hose, because the whole bottom 4' or so of the radiator appears to be wet and not just that corner. If anyone with a late 80's unihome knows of a weak spot in this radiator, by all means tell me where to look, as this rig is supposed to go camping next weekend.
A lot of work to pull the rear radiator. Rather use stop leak, first try a couple tablespoons of cayenne pepper in the radiator fill tank.
If it's not the hose, have a radiator shop look at it. Side radiators are easier to find the leak.
Pierce
Not sure about 89 but if it's similar to later model radiators, there are a series of bolts and nuts that run up both sides of the radiator. When they are a bit loose the radiator leaks and it looks like the leak is at the bottom. If you review the posts on this subject you'll get lots of advice on how to attack the job which is usually a combination of bolt tightening and Barr's Leak or similar additive. Good luck.
jor
If the worst happens, a couple with a '84 has a rear radiator they were trying to sell me for our '89.
They pulled the stock radiator because they put a much bigger engine in along with a side radiator.
Can't remember their names but someone else did a few months back. I believe the couple lived along the interstate in either S. D. or Kansas.
OK, so I'm going to pull the fan and the fanshroud and tighten as many bolts as I can, and if that doesn't do it then I'll add stopleak. I don't like using that stuff but I guess the passages in this block are big enough that they won't get clogged. How many cans do you put in a system this big?
Jay, I am working on the same issue. I was reading the bottle yesterday and it looks like it will take 4 bottles for me. My rig calls for 16 gallons of radiator fluid.
Larry
You are (most likely) living a dream if you are under the impression "Stop Leak" will fix a radiator.
Find a commercial (ie: truck/industrial) radiator repair facility before you burn-up an engine or transmission.
After a radiator has 15 (or so) years of service, most of the time it's needing to be serviced unless it has been (very) well maintained.
You are living on borrowed time.. pc
For fifty years I have resisted using stop leak. I feel victim to a weakness in my resistance and used it to stop a small leak in our Jeep Liberty.......big mistake.... BIG mistake. Plugged up the heater core. :headwall: Back to abstention from using stop leak anything...... Fix the problem.
Yeah... looks like our camping trip is forfeit. The core is leaking. Corrosion along the fins, i don't see stopleak doing anything but adding to the trouble list. Oooh, this is gonna be ugly.
Yes, best no stop leak. I have removed fins next to a tubing leak, relieved pressure on the fill tank and then used JB Weld to fix several after using a Q tip with muriatic acid to clean up the area. Might have to drain to keep from seeping while repairing. Never leaked out of the repaired area and can be good until the off season to do the permanent fix. Also gives you time to look around for your options. Prices for R&R plus new core vary hugely. Radiator shop might be able to fix it without a new core. Other option would be having it replaced in Mexico for much less if you don't live too far away.
Pierce
Had my radiator replaced 6 mo. ago, was not leaking, it had lost about 80% of the fins on the fan side, outside looked fine. Bought a new radiator assembly from FOT, while the radiator was out, had both fan motors rebuilt/resealed, some new hoses, mostly hydraulic, job turned out very fine. 6 months later, zero leaks anywhere.
Highly recommend to solve the entire issue. Cost, do not recall exact $$$.
selective memory, don't recall because it was a lot of $$$$$$
:-)
Tim,
Could be, some things are not worth enough to worry about, but since about Dec, I have spent a bunch of coach busks, but not counting, I sleep better that way. :facepalm:
me too! 38 coach bucks to be exact, and still have air bags, and fuel lines to do along with the valve adjustment. Most, except tires discretionary
Like someone says.... "do what makes you feel good" !!
:-)
FOT used Barr's Leak on my coach 6 years ago to address a small leak. No leaks over the 100K miles since then. Your experience may differ.
I have found Bar's leak to be effective for certain situations... and not for some others. Certainly a case where more is not necessarily better! But I have never found it to have caused overheating or clogging of small passages when used properly. No doubt, a new or rebuilt radiator and all associated cooling system peripherals like new hoses etc. is a superior solution, but not always possible in some circumstances. We had some dribbling along the aforementioned bolts a year and a half ago in Texas and tightening all the bolts along the seam that I could reach helped a great deal but didn't make it go away completely. A can of Bar's leak stopped it completely, and our coach's coolant temp rarely approaches 200ยบ even on the hottest days under the heaviest loads. Did nothing for the heater core though!
Don
I have been looking at the options on the stop leak. From the search, it was recommended for Barrs C-16. None of the bottles I have looked at yet have that code that I can find. There are about a dozen types of Barr's according to their front label. What's the difference/proper recommendation? Have had a granddaughter visiting this week, haven't been able to crawl under to work on tightening the bolts yet. Maybe by the end of the week. (She's worth it ^.^d ).
Larry
Larry,
They have replaced C-16. Here's what I got from the Bars guy.
jor
Thanks Jor. I appreciate the correct info. I need all the help I can get.
Larry
Update, just to keep the weekend trip alive, I put a couple cans (couldn't have been more than a couple ounces each) of some manner of stop leak the parts store recommended. The container looks like a miniature blue plastic coolant jug.. 28 bucks for two, they're pretty proud of the stuff. After doing a temporary heater core bypass, I drove into town and topped off propane, made a few other stops to heatsoak, got on the freeway for a bit, drove some good grades, brought it back home and found that it had the leak has come to a full stop. I'll probably test it again before Friday, then buy another bottle of the stuff as a just-in-case, but am thinking maybe we can use it this weekend after all and then deal with the repair later.... maybe. I may still chicken out and keep her parked 'til the problem is really fixed.
In about 1996 I had a company van start tossing coolant out of the radiator core right before a job, and I put Barr's in there hoping to not have to shut down for the day. It worked. I... never... really got round to replacing that radiator. That van got retired from company service looong ago, but I still have it for hauling firewood and doing dump runs and such. Its' cooling system is *still* held together with stopleak.
Larry, if you add Barr's I beleave they recommend closing the valve to the water filter (if equipped) for a bit to allow the product to do its work. I had leaking headers on mine added 2 bottles of C16 no leaks in 5 years, and no run hot.
If the fan blade is made of fiberglass be sure to replace it with a nylon fan blade. The fiberglass fan blade will explode and destroy your radiator. Use the search and read my post about the fiberglass radiator fan explosion a couple of years ago. It'll tell you how to replace your radiator. I gave a lot of details but I've forgotten some of it now. You can call me if you need to: Scott (615) 482-7650
^Heh... your post about your 'glass fan is why I installed the nylon replacement fan before we went to Yellowstone. Thanks for that!
@bbeane, not sure about a water filter. What am I looking for?
Scott, thanks for the reminder. I will be sure to check. I remember the ordeal you went through. I would like to avoid that.
Thanks, Larry
Larry,
On my 99 the coolant filter is on the drivers side of the engine about mid ways of the engine. There is a shutoff on both sides of the filter. Probably something you should put on your service list if your coach is equipped with one.
Jerry
Just an update,
I got the Barr's Stop Leak HDC, as Jor talked about. I predissolved the tablets, put into the radiator reservoir, filled with distilled water. Drove to new camp 60 miles, It appears that I lost zero coolant. I had filled it to just over the cold level on the overflow tank, it is still there. When I get more miles behind me (several thousand miles) I will be more confident. But for now, the radiator gods are smiling on me.
Thanks' again,
Larry
For the next time (hopefully never) why don't you just take it to a truck repair place and have it pressure tested. A leak will SHOOT fluid out.
Twig, will try that before this winter. I want to make sure it is stopped leaking, then get it flushed so I know what I have to work with.
Larry