I purchased a couple of SeeLevel 709 systems to install on my Fortravel. The two black/gray tanks are very straight forward as their tank walls are vertical.
The fresh water tank is very different. It has a vertical section at the very top and the very bottom. Unfortunately, the bulk of the area that fronts on the utility bay slopes at about a 45 degree angle (+ or - 20 degrees). (This is where the power cord and power cord reels are normally located, if installed.) According to the Garnet Technologies Inc. Engineer, placing the sender strips on that slope will not give an accurate reading.
Where have the rest of you installed the fresh water tank sending strips?
Thanks for any guidance and advice y'all can provide,
Trent
Hi Trent,
I do not have that system, but my system has all mounted on the other side (passenger) as all the tank ends are vertical, no slope.
Raymond
Howdy Trent,
I installed two SeeLevel 709 gauges on our coach. I put all the sensor strips on the back side, that is: the curb side of the coach. I did have to trim the black and grey tanks sensors to compensate for the tank tilt. I placed one Display in Service Bay and the other Display inside near the Power Monitor . System works great.
Good Luck, Dave A
Trent, i put mine on the curb side as well. Many use two strips to do,the whole vertical end of the tank but if you only have one start it near the bottom and go up as far as it will go. It will read 100% until you get to about a half tank and then go down. Roger
We just installed 2 in our coach, curbside. Actually Tennessee RV installed them. They got to the flat side of the black water tank through an opening in a bulkhead. We installed one monitor in the wet bay, the other upstairs on the bathroom sink cabinet.
Thanks for the responses.
When I open the bay behind (opposite) the utility bay, I see the manibloc and the the water heater. Most of the bay is covered around the manibloc; does that cover some off?
Thanks,
Trent
Yes, the cover comes off easily. It is probably held in place by about four screws. The screws, like many on a FT, can be removed with a small square driver.
That has about 4 screws and the carpeted cover comes off. The outlet is still attached so it doesn't go very far. Two screws to remove the outlet. In mine there is a shelf above the water pump and a vertical panel above it. The vertical panel comes off with a few screws to reveal the fresh water tank. The shelf will come out too, more screws and that will give you more working room.
These will usually be square head drive screws. Save the screws, remember how it came apart. When it is all back together you shouldn't have any screws to add to your collection.
Roger
Roger,
Have you been talking to my wife? :-[
Trent
Trent,
Not sure of your floorplan, but on ours the fresh water tank is behind the water heater and the waste tanks are behind the manibloc. Here is a picture of the Seelevel sensors on our freshwater tank. It would be virtually impossible to install the sensor strips without removing the water heater. I had also removed the frame (not to mention the fresh water and waste tanks!), so the installation was pretty simple. Here is a picture of the sensor strips installed. The water heater frame was installed after the Seelevel.
Don
Ours is the same as Don & Tys' and I also had to pull the water heater. If I had it to do over, I would install the top strip (maybe both?) at an angle to better reflect the vertical change in tank volume (most of the tank slopes out on the other side, so the readings aren't linear when the sensor strip is vertical.)
All 3 tanks on my GV320 are the same irregular shape that has been described. The only difference is the width of each tank.
After installing the Seelevel system, I was wondering how accurate the % readout was. So I poured 10 gallons of water at a time into the grey tank - through the shower drain- and checked the readout after each 10 gallon pour.
Here's the result...
10 gal 0 %
20 gal 13 %
30 Gal 25%
40 Gal 40 %
50 Gal 48 %
60 Gal 54%
70 gal 67 %
80 gal 79 %
90 gal 92 %
100 gal 100 %
101.5 gal Full
The variable would be how close to the top and bottom of the tank the sensors reached.
Somehow, even with the irregular shape of the tanks, it all works out to be "close enough".
Ed,
Did you install the strips on the front, straight on the vertical parts and straight up the slanted parts?
Thanks,
Trent
Geeez Ed, all I wanted to know was am I running out of water or about to overflow my waste tanks.
The less than 50% reading on fresh water would be nice when you have a chance. I know when it reads 0% I still have at least 5 gallons. At 25% I know I have less than 25 gal. Probably good enough. Waste tanks read 100% about an inch and a half from the top. Never been there yet.
When I put ours in last summer LP was at 51%. It is now at 48%. Without an LP refrigerator I can use a smaller tank.
How ever you set yours up, this is a great upgrade. Somis a direct fresh water fill connection. Added 40 gallons this morning in less than 10 min.
Roger
Trent, your question reminded me that my black and gray tanks are straight up and down on the accessible side so no problem putting the sensors on those tanks.
The fresh water tank has a step in the front - sort of an L shape. I haven't put the sensor strips on that tank since I can't decide how I want to deal with it (almost a year later now). I can't access either side and the back has a metal brace across the tank - no space to slide the sensor between the tank and brace.
I'll probably set it up to read the way Roger commented - a sensor at the top and another to read the 7 inch high step at the bottom.
What has been working quite well is opening the bay door and looking at the tank. I can clearly see the water level. That method works every time!
Roger, I remember you showing me the direct fresh water fill when we were in Tucson. I agree it's a great upgrade.
But I have to say, I thought it then and I'll say it now - you are a braver guy than I am. The thought of how many ways I could mess up the job of cutting a hole in the water tank and glueing a fitting on gives me nightmares.
I have made a mess of much simpler projects.
I used one of these.
.Amazon.com: JR Products 160-85-A-26-A Polar White City Water Flange with... (http://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-160-85-A-26-A-Polar-Flange/dp/B000BGHSNK/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=096BMTH1X74R38751MDV)
Ed,
I used these
Ameri-Kart (53) 0.5" Female Pipe Fitting
Amazon.com: Ameri-Kart (53) 0.5" Female Pipe Fitting: Automotive (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFAW972?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
3M 4693H Clear Scotch-Weld High Performance Industrial Plastic Adhesive, 5 Ounce
3M 4693H Clear High Performance Industrial Plastic Adhesive, 5 Ounce:... (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XIMYX8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)
The fitting is a spinweld fitting but it can be glued. The water tank is a particularly difficult plastic to glue anything on. The 3M glue is designed for this type of plastic. It is like a contact adhesive but needs aditional time to set up once the parts are together. Hole size is not as critical as the rubber bulkhead fittings.
I used a hole saw with the pilot bit extended out as far as it would go to catch the cut out disk.
Fill time is less than 1/2 of what it was using the coach city water connection. Makes more noise at first since you are filling from the top.
A nice change. Roger
I used a brass blind bulkhead tank fitting from Unique RV Solutions in the top of the grey tank street side. This was to rectify a situation that developed after FOT replaced the fuel lines. Apparently, pulling the old ones out and the new lines in put pressure on the top of the grey and black tanks. The concavity produced on the top of the grey tank vent & waste pipe grommets on the driver's side got too close to the end of their respective pipes and created a leak when the tanks got to about 92%. So the low point of the concave top of the grey tank was below the top of the sleeves sensor strip 100% mark. I can't abide leaks of any kind for obvious reasons, so I hatched the idea of drilling a hole in the grey tank as close to the top as possible and inserting a lever through it to put a bit of a crown in it. Additionally, I put a couple of clamps around the vent and waste pipes to keep the dome in the top of the grey tank. I first tried a plastic blind fitting that I had on hand, but I couldn't stop the seeping when the grey water approached the top of the tank, so I found this brass fitting linked below and it does the trick. When I add a gravity fill to the fresh tank, I will use one of the brass ones. Expensive at $50, but worth it not to have a leak. I have tested it several times since then (both on purpose and inadvertently ??? ), and it will back up into the shower but still not leak from the grey tank. Some pictures below. I will eventually use the fitting in the grey tank to add a flush to it. I just couldn't bring myself to trust the adhesive route, but more power to those that do!
Don
Edit: The second picture is of the plastic blind tank fitting that I tried first. I had previously obtained it from a trailer supply place thinking I might use it to add a gravity fill. It might work if it was installed along with some sealant, but I prefer something that can get a good mechanical seal (to which might be added a bit of sealant if desired).
http://usi-rv.com/product.sc?productId=16
Don..
I have a question for you. I like the brass approach to the fresh fill issue, but is there an adapter available for the hose bib.
Probably a dumb question.?
Hans
Hans,
If I understand the question correctly, they have various sizes available. The one I used happens to have ½" mail pipe thread's on the outside of it. To that, you can attach the fitting of your choice. In my case I happen to have had with me a ½" female brass bushing to male ¾" garden hose adapter and a brass cap for male garden hose threads.
Don
Thx Don !
I did my fresh water direct fill also in brass. I decided to do like Barry & Cindy did and put in a ball valve ( mine is brass) on the fill- works great. Very easy to shut it off and not worry about water coming out.
I am finally getting around to installing my SeeLevel strips. Removing the Manibloc panel presents both the black and gray tanks with flat sides. (The fresh water tank is behind the water heater in the adjacent section.)
All three of my tanks appear to have two tinfoil type strips already installed on the ends. They have connections on the top and I assume they are part of the Audit system; is that correct? Does the Audit system require both strips to be installed to function?
I assume I cannot just put the SeeLevel strips on top of them; is that correct? If I remove them, then that part of the Audit system will no longer function properly. Presumably, the SeeLevel system is an upgrade, so I do not see that as a problem. How difficult is it to remove the existing strips? what should I do about the wiring at the top of the tanks? The SeeLevel strips will need their own wiring, but it is different, and goes to a different location.
I noticed a hose connection on the end of the black tank. I assume this is for purposes of cleaning it out. Would it just be an opening into the tank, or would there be some kind of more exotic sprayer installed?
I have two systems, so I plan to put one monitor in the water bay. The other one I will probably try to mount near my other electric monitors across from the refrigerator. Where have y'all mounted yours?
Thanks,
Trent
If you can peel off the foil tapes and then clean the surface well the new SeeLevel strips can go there otherwise just mount then next to the foil strips. Old wiring can be cut off, put a crimp on cap on them.
We put out readout inside on the bathroom wall above the CO monitor across from the shower. On outside in the water bay would be nice as well. Access to the inside location is good, wiring can come up from the Manibloc bay through the floor. This location seemed to be good for checking what we needed to see one or twice a day. Access sort of drove my choice more than anything else. I didn't want to add more things in the kitchen area.
Old Tape: Mine came off easily. Just cleaned up the residue and installed the SeeLevel strips in about the same location.
Old Wiring: I did as Roger suggests; just cut and capped them and ran new wire.
Hose Connection: I've never see that. Must be some kind of cleanout, I guess.
There are some great threads with photos on SeeLevel installations. Here's a few photos of the install on our present coach which is a 95. Like yours, it has a water heater. I didn't have to remove it, however, in that there is an access hole from the adjacent compartment. I installed the bottom strip by reaching under the heater and the top one by reaching through the access hole. You have to work more or less blind. A little unnerving as those SeeLevel strips really stick when they contact that tank.
As others have done, I mounted one monitor inside and one in the wet bay. I think you will really like your SeeLevel system.
jor
Jor,
Wow! So much information from all those pictures.
First, kudos for having such a clean basement. How did you get it so clean, let alone keep it clean?
How do you have such an impressive looking output device for your water heater? Mine has all kinds of rust on it, including many rust flakes on the floor under it. Is yours a replacement; where did you get it? Speaking of impressive looking, what the heck did you use on that faucet? I am sure mine did not look that good when it was new!
What are the two meters (?) to the left of your cable input? What are the two black hangers on the left wall? What is the blue material you have on the floor of the water bay?
I saw that access hole at the back of the fresh water tank, but i cannot imagine how to properly apply sticky tape in the right position from there; kudos again!
Keep up the good work!
Thanks,
Trent
Not sure what you mean. I replaced my water heater so it's nice and shiny. The old one was absolutely choked with calcium deposits. It's a direct replacement. Atwood GCH10A-4E 3 Way
Just the stock faucet.
Progressive Industries EMS. One is the selector for cabin monitor or wet bay monitor and the other is the actual monitor.
Just a couple of hooks for rags.
Some kind of rubber shelf liner material. I just cut it to fit and lay it in place (no adhesive)
You can do it! Beats taking out that darn water heater.
jor