Hopefully. :D
I ordered a Safe-T-Plus, a Reelcraft spring loaded water reel and a powered 50amp power cord reel. The Safe-T-Plus and the power cord reel are coming from PPL. Shipping was $9.99. I got the Reelcraft water reel as it is a lower profile than the powered reels I found. I'm hoping to save some room.
I'm going to 'hardwire' both reels to simplify things. I have a bad back, actually waiting for a surgery date for fusion. Power cord management should be much easier for me this way. At some point I'll add a hardwired surge protector. I got a brand new stand alone surge protector with the coach so I can't justify the cost of a new one right now.
I'm headed back to TN RV in a couple of weeks for installation. Unfortunately for now, my back prevents me from doing the work myself.
Jeff,
When they install the reel, take along some 4X4" or even 6X6" aluminum plate with hole in the middle of each plate. Use them as large "washers" to spread the load of the reel. Remember, the basement floor (with the exception of the widely spaced beams) is very thin fiberglass above and below with a foam core center.
For those who already have reels, look under the coach to make sure that the small factory installed washers have not cracked through the bottom of the fiberglass allowing water to enter the core.
Brett,
Whoever installed the reels on our coach (a PO) sure didn't take any chances. Both reels are backed up with a 1/4" thick sheet of steel about 8" by 12" - big enough for all the bolt holes in one backing plate. I removed the one under the water hose reel when I replaced the hose. Those plates must weigh a couple pounds each! No worries about the bolts pulling out...
Yes, 1/4" steel is probably overkill (and a potential rust issue). But far better than a lot of installations I have seen where the bottom FG is cracked and water has migrated into the basement core.
Rust issue is right - the one I removed (temporarily) was REAL rusty. I cleaned it up and painted it with some Rust-Oleum. I have some nice rigid 3/16" aluminum sheet from a prior project. Soon as I get around to it I'll cut some new plates to replace the old steel pieces.
Need to get another ROUND TUIT from Bill Chaplin first... :))
: More coach bucks. That should be it for a while.
This afternoon, when I'm out working on my coach, I will remember your post title. It will give me a chuckle!
Its like paying taxes Jeff. lol
As always, great advice Brett.
Jeff
Are you at Lakewood already..??
Hans
Brett, any advice on where to source the plates? How thick? Is this something TN RV should have?
Would this work?
1 8" Aluminum Diamond Plate 3003 Mirror Finish 36" x 36" | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-Aluminum-Diamond-Plate-3003-Mirror-Finish-36-x-36-/281472448760?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418910b8f8)
Jeff,
No need to go with something that expensive and the raised areas would be a negative.
Most box stores will have 1/8" aluminum plate. Just use a hack saw to cut it into pieces (neatness does not count unless you are trying to impress rodents under your coach (or really picky people). Drill a hole in the center the size that will accommodate the mounting bolts.
Doubt an RV dealership would have it.
Another alternative would be to check with a local machine shop that works with aluminum. Labor to make them should be under 15 minutes for 4 if they have the right equipment.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1246&step=4&showunits=inches&id=76&top_cat=60
smaller pieces available there
Thought the aluminum plate suggestion was a good idea. Went and got two 6 inch by 12 inch pieces, bored the holes in it, put them in place. When I pulled the nuts off the bottom, there were no cracks, but the flat washers had been pulled up so tight that they made indentions in the fiberglass. It would probably crack sooner or later. Good idea to take a look.
Thanks Brett, I'll be looking for materials.
Dick
Thanks for that link. I've got some on the way. I placed the order last night for 6x6 pieces and it was shipped already via USPS.
Brett, thanks as always.
Jeff