Hello,
As we travel we find more and more items my wonderful RV mechanic "fixed" One of the initial items was the refrigerator that kept alarming - No Flame. I thought it was the dead battery, turned out that he just turned off the LP. Turning the LP back on and recycling the fridge several times solved that issue.
Now I am finding that non of my water heaters work. The electric one shows the red light but the water do not heat up. The LP heater shows the green light but have no flame.
I looked at the LP heater it had a lever-switch that was extended stright out. I folded it back in - no difference. The water is cold.
Is there any thing I should do to prime - start these heaters?
Thanks so much!!!!
Ted
Has the water heater been working OK up to now, and just stopped working? Or, is this the first time you have tried to use it, and just found out it doesn't work. The answer might help members who will have trouble-shooting suggestions.
I'm not clear what you mean by "lever-switch". Can you clarify, or take and post a photo (even better)?
If it's because you just turned the LP back on again, sometimes you have to switch the heater on/off a buncha times. Seems it takes a lil longer to get the gas.
As for 110, there is a circuit breaker reset at the back of heater when you reach your hand through that hole in the bay compartment. Also there is another on/off switch which may be in the wrong position if you've been sticking you hands in there. At least, on mine there is.
Do you have a Atwood water heater? If so, try this trouble shooting video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYzqP2BFrMk
Check to see if it has a by pass. Valves when I first got ours the valves were closed and hard to see and I only saw one and all I got was cold water.when I found the other all was good. Just a thought.
Dearest Foretravelers,
Truly appreciate your help!
We camped in our foretravel last year in a campsite the whole summer. Everything was working fine [accept for the house battery that the shore power cocked]
During the winter I gave it to a "Maven" to go over all the systems and make sure it is all working well. Well he did [at least he charged me for it] Since then I have one issue after another that provides me with a learning opportunities ;)
As for the water heater that worked well before. Now it provides me now with cold showers. The water heater as I am learning is a Atwood GH6-7E. I also have a switch for electric heater that use to work, it is showing a red light when on but I do not get hot water.
When I turn on the LP heater I see a green light It blinks for a second with the red light. I am not sure if that means that it tries to ignite the burner and stop. When I "wiggled the wires" outside on the water heater I got the burner on for a few seconds then it stopped. I made a video of my settings here My Atwood GH6-7E (https://youtu.be/TuTR24cneUs)
(https://youtu.be/TuTR24cneUs)
My thinking now is that there maybe a shutoff valve of the hot water tank for the winterizing. If that tank is empty the water heater do not heat it. Or that one of the components - main board is malfunctioning.
Any thought are very much appreciated by the 3 ladies I am traveling with!
If your water heater compartment is set up like ours, the water pump and perhaps a small plastic expansion tank should be mounted in the compartment below the heater. I would think any shutoff valves (winterizing valves) for the water heater would be located in this same area.
You could pull the drain plug on the water heater and see if it is full of water, or empty. Turn off the water pump and/or shutoff shore water pressure before you pull the plug. Expect to get wet (if the tank is full).
If you suspect the circuit board, it should be available at any good RV supply store, and they are easy to swap out.
Underneath that black piece of foam rubber are 2 sensors that tell the circuit board when the water is hot and in turn it shuts off the gas until the sensor tells it to turn on again. To eliminate a sensor problem, pull the wires off of their connectors. Start with the 2 wires on the right first. Take a paper clip and connect those 2 wires together, thus bypassing the sensor and see if it stays lit. If not, put the wires back on and try the 2 on the left. Whether there is water in the tank or not, the gas should stay on.
If that doesn't help.......then nevermind.
For the gas try a little corrosion x or dielectric grease on the flat connector of the control board and connector.
Bill
The 2 disc on the back are the thermostats. Mine didn't work when I bought it. I found them to be bad. Also, if it is like a residential, if the electric is turned on with no water in the tank it could fry the heating element. From the video it looked like the relief valve was open. It should not be in that position.
Good eyes, Jerry, catching the fact that the pressure relief valve open!
In his original post, the OP mentioned a "
lever-switch" (see quote above). I asked him what he was referring to, but got no response. I think you have answered that question! I'm starting to think the water heater tank is probably empty, and now as you have pointed out, the electric element is probably fried. But the gas mode should still function...
Looks like it has a hot rod electric element that screws into the drain plug, not the best thing, but should work if there is water in the tank, but like others mentioned, probably no water in the tank
Hard to say but that thermal fuse looks maybe blown. But if it is I don't think the gas would light at all. Not sure. So.........another thing to try is to remove that fuse and plug the wire straight into the sensor and see if it stays lit.
I saw a yellow flame for a few seconds. Is this correct? Do you hear the sparker click when you flip the switch (the video is too noisy).
It's a very simple device. Red light comes on if it doesn't sense flame. Thermostats cut off power to control board.
Looks like the "Help" placed the hot water tank on Bypass so my tank is empty. Where is this tank and how do I turn the bypass off?
Did I burn the electric heater by turning it on with an empty tank?
The pressure relief valve was flipped up initially. I pushed it down when I tried to trouble shoot the lack of hot water. I did not know what it was and how to call it. When is it being used and how?
I am not sure where the actual 110 heater is. So I could turn it on if it is off, in addition to opening the Bypass [I do see a Red Light when the switch is on]
Sorry for my ignorance, I am experiencing a steep learning curve in my first winter in New England.
BTW,
I did look under the water heater as I was looking for the Hot Water Tank. I have an empty storage compartment there. I am not sure where this hot water tank is. As there is a good chance that I burnt the electric heater is there a part I could order?
Again sorry for my ignorance, there is hope now though - my wife has started reading these notes...
The hot water tank is located directly behind the area shown in your video, and is covered by some kind of insulating material. You usually can't see the tank unless you completely remove the whole water heater assembly.
ATWOOD MOBILE PRODUCTS PILOT 6 GALLON USER MANUAL Pdf Download. (http://www.manualslib.com/manual/840393/Atwood-Mobile-Products-Pilot-6-Gallon.html#manual)
Thanks Chuck,
Your prompt help is so appreciated!
I am trying to find the Bypass Valve. Couldn't find it yet. I will continue working on it tomorrow as it is past midnight here.
Ted
What I would do first is take off the burner tube ( remove small screw and note the position for air feed. Then check that there is not a build up of something in the pipe the flame goes into. If it has a blockage the flame pops back and goes out. While doing that clean the thermocouple with sand paper and the ignitor next to it without moving either of them. Put the tube back and try again. If it still cuts out slacken slightly the scrww agian next to tube with slots in it. This is to control flame type and you need blue colour with tiny bit of yellow tip. Slide the tube slightly to left and try to light. If flame lasts longer move it a bit more. The flame in video sure looks bad so methinks the air is not adjusted right.
johnH
Thanks John,
I will work on the burner, do you remember where the bypass is? That is my main issue now as the tank is empty.
Ted
Ted,
Unfortunately, Foretravel did not provide a factory installed water heater bypass system on any of the early model coaches. IF your coach has the bypass valves, they were either added by a prior owner, or by some service technician. When installing these winterizing systems, some people use one of the pre-assembled kits you find in RV supply stores, and some just do a "custom" install using whatever parts are handy. This is why it is hard for anyone on the Forum to tell you exactly where to find the valves. If their location is not immediately obvious (and apparently that is the case), then you will have to do some sleuthing. There has to be a "cold" water line feeding into the water heater, and a "hot" water line exiting the heater. The winterizing bypass will consist of some way to physically connect these two lines, so the cold water is diverted before it flows into the water heater. Keep investigating, and you should be able to figure out how this is done. Good luck!
The bypass valves will probably be behind the water heater. The electric element is screwed into the drain plug the way it looks as can see the power cord going out through the left side of the water heater this is an add on if it is no good you can get another one at a rv parts store
Thanks guys,
I understand the issue much better now. I kept wondering why I do not get a simple instructions that even I could follow i.e.
" Turn the red valve behind the faucet " or something like that.
BTW I find cold shower to be refreshing :)
Ted
[still in PEI]
Finally,
After reading all the above I took the drawer out and discover the Bypass. I did not have valves jus straight bypass. For the future generations I have videoed the setting. I took off the bypass and connected the tubes straight in. There is a facet handle - valve to the left of the water heater back. I think it is to drain all the water from the lowest point in the motorhome.
As I burned the electric heater I replaced it now. It is an aftermarket called "Hotrod". It is plugged at the water heater drain plug.
(https://youtu.be/SVaJuLbwa84)
My wife canceled her reservation at the Hilton
Thanks for all your help!
Congratulations on solving your puzzle - your perseverance was justly rewarded!