I'm doing this in several posts in order to get the photos in.
I've wanted a new rear camera system since we got the coach. The OEM one was almost worthless in many driving conditions. I wanted a clean install that would not preclude me from finding a place for a VMSpc install in the future. After a lot of cyphering, I decided on a TadiBrothers 7" monitor, CCD (Hi-Def) camera and a wireless setup with the monitor installed in the same location as the existing Audit monitor. I also decided that as along as I was mucking around with the intake grill, I'd add an air deflector while I had it off. Here's what I did and what I learned as I did the project.
I started in the rear cabinet above the bed and removed the access panels--first the bottom center hump. This covers the wiring that is in the bottom of the overhead cabinet. This wiring (clock, genny remote start, etc.) is not used on a U270.
And then the cherry panel on the inside back of the cabinet. See photo #1.
Then I removed a piece of 1 1/2" blue foam and a piece of fiberglass with D-channel weather stripping on the back.. This is where I got my first surprise. The panel was designed to seal the engine air intake plenum from the inside of the coach. But the opening in the wall of the air intake plenum had been enlarged (to make it easier to install the air intake grill) and they had not made the cover bigger. So, the inside of the coach was really dirty from the air and moisture getting around the edges of the too small cover. See photo #2.
Next I disconnected the 8-pin DIN connector from the camera and started to remove the air intake grill. The grill was held on with one nut/washer and 5 wing nuts. I could not get my big hands in to reach the wing nuts on the left so I ended up cutting the opening even bigger. I figured "Why not?", I had to make a new cover anyway. I used my multi-tool and it made short work of the fiberglass on the wall. See Photo #3. I used some 1/4" plywood to make the new cover, painted it on the plenum side and got some D-channel weatherstripping from Lowes to close the plenum.
Once the grill was off, it was easy to remove the old camera. See Photo #1. I then stripped the old flaking paint from the air intake grill.
I really liked John Haygarth's air deflector but did not like the idea of putting holes in the fiberglass cap to mount it. So (with the help of a friend who is rebuilding a T-28 airplane), I built a deflector that is mounted on the top of the air intake with screws and nut plates. See photo #2-3.
Camera Install: Having a U270, I was able to use the clock wire to power the camera. It runs from the bottom of the rear cabinet to the front CB panel in front of the co-pilot seat. I disconnected it from the CB and ran a jumper over to the new power switch I installed in the dash. I then spliced into the bedroom light ground wire in the bottom of the rear cabinet and I was ready to go. Just needed to plug in the wireless transmitter and mount it and the camera. The camera is on a temp bracket. TadiBrothers has been having problems getting me the correct bracket for the camera. See Photos #4.
Monitor install: I opened up the front dash and found the Panasonic Camera Modulator (PCM). It is about 2" square and 1" thick. See Photo #1. I unplugged the 8-Pin DIN connector (from the old camera) and the yellow RCA connector (to the old monitor). I secured and left the now unused DIN cable in place and completely removed the RCA cable.
Next I identified all the wires at the monitor. See Photo #2. There are 2 switches. The top one selects the video input signal. Top wire is Audit monitor signal, center wire goes to the LCD monitor and the bottom wire is the rear view camera signal. The bottom switch is the ON/OFF. Top wire is power in and bottom wires go to the monitor, the PCM and the Audit electronics.
Then I unbolted and removed the monitor and switches. See Photo #3. BE CAREFUL WORKING AROUND YOUR GENERATOR CONTROLS. I shorted out one of the wires on the back of the small generator control panel. I replaced the 10A fuse but it appears I now need to find and replace the Run/Stop relay. That's a project for another day. In the meantime, I can run the generator from the external control panel.
I decided to put the new ON/OFF switch next to the boost switch. I ordered a switch from FOT to match the rest of the switches. Photo #1.
I basically built some 2' jumper wires to extend all the power leads from their original position to where the new switch is located. I also extended the old clock wire to the new switch.
After I removed the old LCD monitor, I expected to have a large hole in the dash. But there is an anti-glare screen that is built into the dash and stays there when you remove the old monitor. See Photo #4. So I just added some industrial strength velcro and attached a piece of 1/4" plywood (painted black) in the old monitor opening. Then I velcro'd the new monitor to it. See Photo #2.
Hooking up the new camera was easy. The old monitor power wire goes to the wireless receiver and that plugs into the new monitor. I mounted the receiver on top of the heater box plenum just to the left of the center console drawer using 3M double-sided tape. See Photo #3. It is in the right corner of the photo.
Rich, good write up and will help many with this change over.
re- Deflector. I can understand your not wanting to drill holes in end cap but do you realise that the 5 upper clearance lights all have 2 holes each going thru cap and I have found that no one checks those for leaks. I have found in all the FTs I have had ! and a couple others I have worked on that thiese screws are terrible for water leaks. Take out some screws and I am sure you will find them rusted.
The "D" can also be D-sided taped on.
JohnH
Next, I found the Audit electronics box. It is located on the floor, behind the bottom and back panels of the center console storage compartment. See Photo #1. It is the silver box in the back, bottom of the photo.
On the front corner is a BCN connector. See Photo #2. I removed the BCN cable. You will need a BCN to RCA adaptor to connect the video signal from the Audit box to the Video 2 connector on the new monitor. You will also need a cable with male RCA connectors on each end. I got a 30' one included with my order from TadiBrothers. I'll replace it with a 2' one when I get home. It will help decrease the wire clutter in the dash. I had to cut a lot of zip ties to remove the old wiring and to gain access to install the new wiring. I went back when I was done and retied all the wire bundles.
After studying the wiring diagram for the Audit system, I drew up a new wiring diagram before I started to guide me through the process and to have record for future work. See Photo #3.
Here's the final setup. See Photo #4. You can see the lighted power switch near the ignition key.
Hope this is helpful. I have more pictures if anyone has any questions,
Rich
John,
I was more worried about having to patch them in the future if I decided to remove the deflector. This way, I can just put some screws in the holes and no one will be the wiser.
Rich
Thanks Rich, a new camera is on my endless list. Seing how others get it done helps a lot. There is a place just above the right heat outlet for a USB outlet. Pretty handy if you have devices.
Roger
Rich -
Great write up. Thanks it's on our list too. Will be interested to hear how the wireless camera works in real time. I have heard that there is a time delay that I am somewhat concerned about.
I think your Velcro solution is a good one but would still rather have it fin in the instrument panel as opposed on on the panel. I do not know if putting it in the panel is doable as I have not done the research.
The deflector looks like it will work great.
Great job. ;D
Rich: Excellent writeup on a great project. I like the way you integrated the new video system with the existing Audit functions.
Carol & Scott: I have been using the Tadi wireless setup for almost a year now. I have never noticed any time delay problem.
And to add to that comment my Viewsonic 7" monitor is velcroed on top of existing area and has never moved at all. Ours is hard wired (by last owner)
JohnH
Nice write up Rich.
Thanks for taking the time to document your work.
How does the top of the dash come off???
I replaced my in-dash AM/FM radio and did all the work from underneath and it nearly killed my back.
From your photo's I could have save myself a lot of work..
Thanks--Jim
Rich,
WOW!!!
We really appreciate it when you (and others) take the time to document their projects for us mere mortals.
I know it is not easy, either taking all those pictures, or getting "Roundtuit" and actually *doing* the documentation.
I recommend you for this week's Roundtuit award.
Job well done!
Thank you very much,
Trent
(Representing some of the silent majority)
Funny you should mention USB outlets. I just replaced my CO monitor with a surface mount from Walmart for about $18. So now I need to figure out what to do with the hole left by the flush mount monitor. I think I will turn it into a UsB charging nook. I'll post that project when it's done.
The back of my dash just pops off with a plastic pry tool. The flat areas are velcro'd down. I did a write up over a year ago on how to access the dash. Barry posted it on Beam Alarm.
Rich
The back of my dash just pops off with a plastic pry tool. The flat areas are velcro'd down. I did a write up over a year ago on how to access the dash. Barry posted it on Beam Alarm.
Rich
[/quote]
Thanks Rich--found it
Day One on the Road--Update: The picture is much better than the original system. I can now see that the blur in the bottom corner of the picture (that I kept trying to clean off the lens) is the ladder. I can also see the clouds reflecting off the hood of the Jeep. But the picture stability does not meet my expectations. I think when I get home, I will try to use the old camera cable (by removing the DIN connectors and splicing on RCA connectors) to hardwire the camera to the monitor. More updates to follow.
Rich
Day Two Update--Heavy rain going through Topeka this morning. Air deflector did not keep the camera dry. Will probably mount it behind the grill like the OEM camera. Also, picture stability much worse in cities. Will definitely try the hardwire on the camera.
Rich
Rich,
Wondering if the position of your receiver is optimum. We have the same Tadi wireless setup. We have a 40' coach - yours is 36'. My transmitter is in the same place as yours. My receiver, however, is centrally mounted out in the open on the overhead panel. (see photo below) In that spot, it has a direct line of sight down the hall to the transmitter, and is further away from the electronics under the dash.
In the year we've used the wireless system, I have seen "drop outs" (picture instability) only two times - once going through the Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex, and once going through a very congested area in the Los Angeles area. I attributed the drop outs to increased congestion on the wireless frequency. Other than that, our connection has been rock stable.
Just thinking it might be worthwhile to try a different location for the receiver, before you go to "wired". Up to you, of course.
Rich,
Do you know what function the PCM provides related to it being wired to the clearance lights?
Michelle,
I've been out of the country for 3 weeks. When I get home this weekend, I'll take a look at the diagram and see if I can find an answer for you.
Rich
Michelle,
The short answer is no but I can tell you what I did and also speculate as to the purpose.
In the original configuration, the PCM sends 7.3V power to the camera and accepts a signal in return. The cable to the camera has 8 conductors including two wires plus the case that were grounded. I wasn't able to identify which of the remaining conductors carried the signal from the camera. I assume that when you turn on the monitor, the PCM also puts 12V on the the orange/C30 clearance light line but did not measure that.
I left the PCM in place (and powered) because of not knowing what the clearance light function performed. If you look at DRW A-6277, you will see wire 30C which I'm guessing maybe the same as wire C30 on DRW A-2701.10. DRW A-6277 shows Park/Clearnace lights and also shows a Dimmer for Dash Lights. So maybe it powers the the dash lighting for the monitor when you turn it on. I've removed all the old monitor pieces so can't go back and confirm.
Sorry I can't help more than this,
Rich
An additional update on camera/monitor performance.
I hardwired the camera using the existing cable to carry the signal. I also moved the camera back behind the grill like the original camera was mounted. On my trip to Florida in Dec, I had no signal problems and moving the camera seems to have cured the problem with rain on the lens. The picture is solid with no flicker or dropout.
I'm a happy camper with the installation.
Rich
Thanks for all the info. Sounds like you solved all the problems.
Michelle,
What did you guys wind up using and how is it connected at each end?
If it is documented anywhere, would you please send me a link and any other information that would let me follow in my mentor's footsteps?
Thanks,
Trent
P.S. The quote button did not seem to work in your last message in this thread. I quoted your previous message in this thread, deleted the contents, and copied and pasted the above quote from your last message . . . ????
It's still a work in progress, but I'll PM you the link where it will be documented ;)
Has anyone done the research, or better yet has anyone installed a monitor in the opening? The reason I'm asking is
because even though I know the size of the opening in the dash (7.5" X 4.25"), I can't seem to get the dimensions of a
monitor that might fit, anywhere. The dimensions they give online seem difficult to use.
I think your options are a surface mount like mine or go with a smaller screen and make a filler face plate for the opening.
Rich
This was done by a PO of my coach it is not flush mount but covers the old hole
Great tech article Rich. Your surface mount looks fine..
What are the model numbers for the Tadi Brothers 7" monitor and the camera?
Thanks.
That looks good also. What monitor is that?
Line your monitor hole with Velcro then surface mount the largest monitor that won't interfere with the nearby switches.
The top one is for cameras (Total Vision) and the lower one is Valor for the system monitor
I do not know about the rest of your dashes, but on mine, the switch that is most likely to interfere is the Auto/Manual switch for the generator. I do not use that switch (it is always in the manual mode), so I thought of just removing that switch. However, my coach came with the two-position camera upgrade, so there is a (now unused) switch below the monitor switch. I simply moved the connectors from the Auto/Manual switch to the unmarked two-position switch.
Hope this helps,
Trent
Traveling Man,
I just bought the 7" kit and upgraded to the HD monitor. Don't have the info with me.
Rich