One of my projects involves making a new stove cover and pull out shelf out of a counter top scrap that is an exact match for our coach that I bought from David F. at FOT. I have done some web searches and got varying results about the proper blade to use. I am tempted to try it with a high tooth count carbide blade, but I note that the manuafacture's recommend a particular angle of blade set. I can't afford to waste material experimenting and so would appreciate a recommendation from someone who as actually done Corian fabrication, or at least modification, on a specify blade that would cut it cleanly. I figure that cutting it from the back side to minimize possible chipping is a given, but I would appreciated tips and possibly a link to a saw blade that doesn't cost an arm and leg for this one job I will have for it.
Thanks, Don
Don,
I think many places rough cut and then finish with a high speed router.
Rich
As a retired builder, I'd find a cabinet shop with Corian experience and have them custom cut it. Why drag around anymore crap than we all do?
Rich has a very good approach. Very good cut comes from a sharp carbide router bit.
Don, pretty much any carbide blade with a low hook angle will work well, a triple chip style blade is great. Any carbide router bit also, the stuff cuts like butter. Face side up when using table saw, blue painters tape on both faces in cut area will prevent microchipping if your saw is not well set up. (Fence exactly parallel to blade.)
Was a corian cert dealer years ago, the ease of fabrication always impressed me. One thing you can probably do is purchase a triple chip style 7.25 skilsaw blade and run on table saw. Will save some bux. I haven't ever cut using a handheld saw. Easy stuff to work.
Hi Don,
Here is one on Amazon. These all look like a triple chip grind. That means that looking at the face of the teeth one tooth is sloped to the right, the next is flat, then a left slope tooth.
Amazon.com: Freud LU95R012 12-Inch Diameter by 84T TCG Solid Surface... (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU95R012-12-Inch-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B001305J20/ref=sr_1_7/181-7767460-2643511?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1443563324&sr=1-7&keywords=solid+surface+saw+blades)
I don't know what you have for tools but a good sturdy table saw is nice for this work. I have done some work in Corian but not a lot. A template made from 3/8" or (more common) 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood and a pattern following bit is going to give you the best finish to start the final finish and polishing work. Cut the blank about 1/8" oversize. I like pattern bits with the bearing on the bottom, less chance for operator error. Use lots of 1-1/2" or 2" thin double stick carpet tape to attach the template to the bottom. If you have an oversized bearing make your first pass with that and then the final pass with the full sized bearing. Big router with 1/2" shank cutters will do a better job.
I was just experimenting with a piece of scrap corian that came along with my 270, very easy to work with. Cut the corner off using my skillsaw with a old carbide blade, nice clean cut no chipping. Rounded the corner off with a jigsaw also a nice clean cut and very easy to sand.
Don,
When I did my bus, I used a narrow kerf high tooth count carbide blade in a table saw. Easy to glue together with matching glue available for the double width you need for the edges on typical counter tops. Use a router with round over bits 1/8" or 1/4" to match your taste or the OEM and available at Home Depot or HF. They are the ones with the little bearing at the end. You can sand and then use a buffer to get a satin, semi gloss or high gloss finish.
Pierce
Thanks Don for the incentive...so now I have a matching cutting board. Just used hand tools and no special blades. Now what to do with the remaining piece of scrap!
Thanks for the all ideas... I want to do this with my circular saw in combination with a straight edge guide. Since I like to soften edges to be more finger friendly, I gather that any micro chipping won't really be a deal killer, as I would probably just use some sandpaper to blunt the edge anyway. The counter top already has the edge profile that matches the one in our coach, so that simplifies my process a great deal. I just need to cut the appropriate size insert, and then cut that across at the hinge point. That brings to mind another question, how well does Corian take to screws? Obviously would require a pre-drilling, but what type of thread? This project is still a ways away, and I won't even have time to start for a few weeks, so just gathering information at this point.
Don
I've drilled and tapped Corian for machine screw thread - works well. I've done #4 to #10 sizes - fine thread. I don't remember if I used any lubricant - probably just light oil.
This stuff is super easy to work with and tapping/drilling is not a problem. Just don't leave the oven on with the cover on the burners. :)
Pierce
We wanted to cut our stove top cover in half so we could use the front burners without uncovering the rear ones. Studied and talked to everyone we could about special tools for Corian, even found an expensive shop that could cut it, but they were too busy and had a minimum job cost.
Well, walking into a nice cabinet shop, the owner went over to an ordinary table saw and made a perfect cut. No chips, no special saw blade, no lubrication and not much money to cut it. Seems to be even easier than wood to work with.
Drilling and tapping seems to be working for others, and I'd not be overly concerned about static loads, but I would be concerned about long term use especially with the stress created by the leverage of a hinged top.
If I were to give advice on drill and tap, I'd say select the largest coarse threaded screw you can. My experience shows they hold better than fine threads in soft material. Drill as deep as possible. Countersinking a bit wider than the tap will make the edge of the hole less likely to pop. Use some type of lube while tapping. Put a little epoxy on the screws before use to strengthen bond. Snug but do not overtighten as Corian is not that strong. If using a piano hinge on the edge, you might want to put some epoxy between the hinge and the Corian to reduce stress on the fasteners.
That being said, the Corian fabrication manual instructs to never install mechanical fasteners into Corian. Brass inserts are the only approved fastener. We use epoxy to make sure the brass insert stays put and have not had a failure in 25 or 30 years. Knock on wood...
Someone suggested making a cutting board out of Corian. If you ever had to pay our sharpening bills for our blades and router bits, you would not use Corain for a cutting board. There are so many other softer and better surfaces to cut on that will not dull or ruin your fine knife blades.
Everything else posted is spot on for working on Corain.