I guess it is a good thing that my present biggest problem concerns replacing the doorbell. Things could be a lot worse.
Our chime doesn't work. When I manually force the contacts together, it rings, so I figure all I need is a new chime. I was about to buy a wired doorbell at Lowes, then realized that these are intended for 110 volt systems, and include a transformer that steps the voltage down to 18 to 22 volts. The Foretravel chime operates on (I assume) 12 volts. Is a new chime something I need to get at FOT?
Thanks,
Glen
Glen, I am trying out a battery operated door bell. I don't want to add any more parasitic loads.
Honeywell RCWL300A1006 Premium Portable Wireless Door Chime and Push Button... (http://amazon.com/Honeywell-RCWL300A1006-Premium-Portable-Wireless/dp/B001CMLAZ4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1444350415&sr=8-2&keywords=Battery+doorbell)
Sure it's not the doorbell button?
It does sound like the actual button switch is what is wrong if shorting the wires makes the chime ring.
With the possible fire hazard from the door bell, we simply took ours out and now people have to knock!
Glen, after many seasons of doorbell problems, most related to water getting into the system, I bought a wireless battery operated unit at Lowes. It works beautifully. There is a ringer in the cabinet over the passenger seat and a stick on activator button beside my entry handle with the useless built u in button.
I agree. If the outside button gets wet, it can hold the door bell in the "ring" position until it catches fire. No, other than the initial ding, it is silent. Have seen a number of melted door bell boxes.
Have not tried a battery powered one, but if I did want a door bell (I don't) I would certainly consider one.
I have been thinking of mounting a ooga horn under my fold out step and wire it in to the doorbell button. I think that would be a hoot!!lol
I have heard on the forum that these OEM door bells can be a fire hazard. I don't remember the exact mechanism on how it starts, but ....., I went out and disabled mine by removing the power. I think I would like others suggested, remove and replace with a battery edition (if I wanted a doorbell that much). I did not replace mine (FWIW). Best of Travels.
Charles,
The failure mechanism is that the outside button, when pushed (or when it fails) completes the ground circuit for the plunger which is basically an electric coil.
Water or other cause of connection across the terminals in the button cause the coil to be powered full time. It was never designed for this and will overheat. First symptom if hot plastic smell coming from the compartment with the door bell (location depends on front vs mid door). Continued operation can melt the housing and/or cause a fire.
If you decide to keep the OE door bell, I suggest removing the cover for it to verify that it has not already overheated. Then remove the positive wire and install an in-line fuse. I would read on the doorbell and get as close to its "normal draw" as possible. If no indication of amp draw, start with a one amp and work up until the fuse does not blow.
A thermal fuse may be a better solution. It could overheat without drawing much more power than normal, until it shorts out due to melty insulation which may already be too late. I'll see what I can find as a solution to this. I want to keep my doorbell, but the danger here is pretty clear and needs to be addressed!
I ordered these: 10 Pcs 250VAC 10A 100C Metal Temperature Thermal Fuses for Rice Cooker - -... (http://amzn.com/B00K81MJAA)
My plan would be to mount the fuse inline with the power source to the doorbell. Its rated to pop at boiling, 100c/212f, low enough to blow before any fire, high enough to never be affected by a really hot day stored in the sun with no ventilation. With it touching the coil, it should blow long before a fire can start.
This is the same style fuse mounted under your coffee maker, rice cooker, crock pot, george foreman grill, any basic appliance has one or more of these to protect you. Adding it to the doorbell should be simple. Mine still works and my friends love it, just for the novelty factor.
We removed ours, much to the consternation of the PO, who worked VERY hard getting it to operate. Sorry, John. Can't understand this desire for a irritating noise-making device...how hard is it for someone to knock on the door? Half the time, your outside door is open and they can simply yell through the screen door "Anybody home?" Plus, many of us carry a built-in burglar alarm (dog). Our little companion makes SURE we know there is a stranger lurking outside the coach! But, do what makes you happy!
Had a doorbell. Nobody used it. They knocked or called out. Battery went dead. Water got in the button. Doorbell gone.
NOW, have to knock or yell. ^.^d
No doorbell was one of the sacriifices that Foretravel made to differentiate their entry level U270 from the U295 in 99', and one which, unlike the bus style compartment doors, I don't miss at all. That is one "upgrade" that will never happen on our coach!
Don
Our original bell system works though most visitors knock. That's the price pay for having the bells and whistles (pun noted). Note to self: If I ever meet Stump, don't ring his bell!
We have a door bell. No one has ever used the thing 'cause they don't know it's there. They knock.
If a ships bell hung at the door people would still knock.
We have no door bell as of now. The only folks that ask where our door bell is are other FT owners who have door bells. Knocking works.
I know, I know. A doorbell on a motorhome may seem superfluous, but my wife is pretty adamant that she wants the doorbell. She likes all the "bells and whistles" and would have wanted a fully-farkled Prevost if I had the money. As it was, this thing came with a doorbell and by gosh, she wants it to work! I'll probably install the fuses that Car 54 mentions.
Thanks guys and gals,
Glen
its not even something I truly use.. but my girlfriend and others love to ring it, more as a joke, when entering. a $5 set of 10 fuses and a few minutes to install the fuse and shoot pics of it sounds like a fun project. And one that will actually work to save from a fire. It is unlikely that just installing a normal current limiting fuse would do anything, since it is the duty cycle of the coil that causes the failure, not any sort of dead short creating heat. The heat builds slowly, not a rapid overdraw of current.