Has anyone changed their AD4 or AD9 air dryer to the newer Spin Off models. If so what model and were there any problems? I was just quoted $379 for a new one, an AD-SP.
I have done it to a couple trucks. You can mount the governor to that dryer direct if its more accessable. If you are looking forward to using the air fittings in the base of the housing some of them might be ported. Operation wise they work just as your ad9. We don't have any more or less issues with them than the ad9
Yes, the AD-9 is a direct replacement for the AD-4. Only potential issue would be a different electrical connection for the 12 VDC heater. They do sell the new-style pig tail.
And, I have no problem with a re-man AD-9. That is a FACTORY (i.e. Bendix) reman.
The air system (brakes and suspension) is to critical to trust Chinese almost fit parts and Bubba doing the rebuilding-- just my opinion! And, yes there are a lot of "replaces ......" on the market out there, some with questionable quality.
Brett, I think the AD-9 is a bolt down cover just like the AD-4. The one that is being recommended to me is a Spin Off Desiccant cartridge just like an oil filter. That means it is something I can change easily without having to pay for pro labor. Where my Dryer is located it easier to remove the whole dryer to change the desiccant cartridge so if I could just spin off the cartridge, I could easily to the job myself.
The recommendation is coming for Cabin Diesel, a very large shop in NE Oklahoma.
Kent,
Yes, you are correct. No first hand experience with the AD-SP. But, from the Bendix website/on-line catalog or a call to them (800 247-2725) would tell you if they are direct bolt up replacements.
You guys know what's what (and are smarter) than this rookie. What does a dryer do and where is mine located, how do I know when replacement time is due? My files show "Replaced air dryer as PM new Bendix AD-IP, 4/10." :help:
Air comes out of the on-engine air compressor and goes directly to the dryer where moisture and oil are removed before it goes to the air tanks and then air brakes, suspension, etc.
At 5 years, I would replace the filter(s) with factory (Bendix in your case) parts.
Yours (U240) is located in the very back passenger's side of the engine room.
Just googled it (did not spend any time price shopping): Bendix 109493X Air Drier Cartridge : Bendix AD-IP Air Dryers (http://www.class8truckparts.com/Bendix-109493X-Air-Drier-Cartridge/dp/B002NET4TE?field_availability=-1&field_browse=7132921011&id=Bendix+109493X+Air+Drier+Cartridge&ie=UTF8&refinementHistory=brandtextbin%2Csubjectbin%2Cprice&searchNodeID=7132921011&searchPage=1&searchRank=salesrank&searchSize=12)
Thanks, Papa. ^.^d Is this something I can do with limited tools and a bad back?
Am I on the right track, are there two, port & starboard & is this reminder for the dryers?
Picture #1and #2 center on the hydraulic reservoirs (one for PS, one for cooling system fan). They both have filter(s) in them and use Delo 400 15-40 as hydraulic fluid.
Picture #3 is the air filter minder that shows air filter restriction. the air filter is on the driver's side opening side louver door.
In the background and just on the right side of the hydraulic reservoir in #1 is the air dryer!
We really need go over the coach together!
mike incorrect
on my 280 it is way over in the corner by the tail light
limited tools to change for the same can work with basic sockets and wrenches provided nothing is seized
ad sp will require bracket modifications not a direct fit for ad9
I'll pay your fuel and comp a spot next to us should you want a cruise.You could hit Quartsite in January, as well. Found the dryer, thanx to you & Toby. Looks like BIG FUN to service! :thumbsdown:
Sorry, headed east this year.
Presenting the in-depth Maintenance Seminars for the Diesel RV Club Feb 26,2016 in Columbus GA: Diesel RV Club - Rally in the Pines (http://www.dieselrvclub.org/event-2011388)
Then presenting a couple of seminars at the FMCA Convention March 17-20, 2016 in Perry GA: Perry, Georgia, 2016 Family Reunion (http://www.fmca.com/conventions-64/perry-2016.html)
Mike, it's really not that hard of a job.
Had mine changed out in Mecca, took two technicians.
Roland
Guess the older coaches are a bit harder.
Oh ya, this one looks like a piece of cake to remove for service. NOT! :D
Yep.... That's why I left mine to the experts in Mecca.
Roland
The Grand Villas are very tough to get to. I tried but I too have a bad back and cant get enough torque to loosen the air lines. I'll need a pro to do mine. That's why I have decided to replace the old one with the spin off AD-SP.
Even if I didn't have a bad back (which I do), I'd use that excuse to avoid going deep down/up into the dryer cave. I wonder, A) will the spin-off fit the older coaches and B) will one be able to get enough torque to remove/replace it in that crazed tight space? :-\
How about a strap wrench modified with a shortened handle with a good sized nut welded on? A short breaker bar or ratchet along with an 12" extension and socket from above should do the trick.
Pierce
If you decide to go back in business, I'd buy one (if tested) and I'd bet a lot of GV CAT owners would, as well ! ^.^d
IIRC the reason to go with the reman is to get a new purge valve which are notoriously difficult to remove? Even with a spin off the purge valve would still need service. Me thinks...
see ya
ken
The thick plottens. Can't wait for you and Dori to come down! Your offer of help is appreciated; I've ordered (as you specified) two cases of Jamesons, five cases of Pacifico and two small techs.
Dryer filters are speced for the dryer, not by model year/old vs newer coach. So, both dryer BRAND and MODEL are important.
Mike: My info shows this is your dryer: New Bendix AD-IP as PM 4/10. So, you will need filter(s) for it. The other reasonable option is to buy a Bendix factory reman dryer.
Thanks again and again, Papa. I hate to bore you guys so often, but have nowhere to turn, as the PO had less of a clue (if possible) than I do. Love the forum, you've saved my sorry ass many times! ^.^d
There are strap wrenches that are square drive on the metal piece to put either a 3/8 and 1/2 drive I use one at work all the time
Just did some checking.....a reman dryer is around $300.00.....a cartridge + purge valve is $260.00: makes it a wash (or more if you figure labor changing the parts out). There is a core charge for the reman, not sure if they pay the frieght. A fresh dryer is around $600.00 + core charge. Which ever way(s) I do it, it's kiss a coach buck goodbye.
Mike,
Should be around $300 for a Bendix reman plus freight (unless you can find one locally which you are likely to be able to do) plus perhaps $120 labor. Long way from a coach buck. AND, a lot cheaper than a contaminated air system from a dryer that has not been serviced!
So, you're figuring an hour & a half +/- to do the change-out? I'm thinking of buying a spare cartridge & purge valve, as well. (I keep the change from my coach bucks and buy good Mexican beer). ^.^d
Ya, an hour and a half should even allow a little "thank you beer drinking time".
In addition to the dryer, you will want some thread seal for the pipe threads. I like Rectorseal #5.
Brett may be able to R&R a dryer in 1.5 hours, but it took me the better part of a whole day. I posted some details on what was involved in replacing my dryer in a thread on making a "bypass kit". The first post in the thread is most relevant to your question, but the rest of the posts might be of interest.
Air Dryer Bypass Demo (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22007.msg165726#msg165726)
Thanks, Chuck, yours looks like easy money compared to mine, which is why I tried to get Brett to come out with the service coach and give me a hand. He gave me some song & dance about "previous commitments". ;D When I worked construction and ran into a head-scratcher, my boss would say, "think of it as a challenge". Well, those days are gone for good! I know it's important, but the chances of finding a good tech down here in the deep desert are zero & nil, so I'll do some checking in Phoenix. After KenHat reads this , he will prolly come up with some lame excuse (not enough Jamesons & beer) to avoid helping. :))
@Mike after I do mine I'll decide what the appropriate amount of Jamesons would have to be to motivate me. I'm pretty sure one day to pull. One day of
heavy medicinal drinking. One day for replacement. Several days of recovery drinking. :))
see ya
ken
I'm adding to my list a couple of memory pads just in case we "serious mechanics" find the doors locked, a plate of dogfood for dinner & have to sleep under our respective coaches. ^.^d
Mike,
From the picture, it sure looks like Chuck's dryer is in exactly the same location as yours. You can see the hydraulic reservoir to the left and side/backup light on the right. Only difference is that your tailpipe is on the other side so you have more clearance than does Chuck.
I can't make sense of his pics vs. mine. It looks like the same location, but maybe different dryer and I've got that fool reservoir in the way!
Mike,
His picture from below, yours from above. It is serviced from below, and there is plenty of room, even without a lift.
You're right, it still looks daunting,however. Thanks, Brett. (Opens the first beer of the day).
R&R'ing the dryer SHOULD be a pretty simple project. For me, the main problem was insufficient working room. As Brett says, (at that time) the monster stock muffler/exhaust pipe was in the way, along with the adjacent hydraulic tank and various frame members. You have to use a BIG open-end wrench (or other suitable tool) to remove the large air hoses. By the time you get the wrench, plus both your arms, crammed up in that small space, while sitting (or laying on your back) on the ground, you don't have any way to apply sufficient leverage to the tool. Plus, you can only swing the wrench a few degrees before it contacts something. I had to use every trick in the book to get those fittings broke loose, including using a variety of cheater pipes and crow bars. Eventually, I succeeded, and the dryer was finally free......to drop on my head because I didn't know how heavy it was. Only drew a little blood.
You will appreciate the weight of the thing AGAIN when you try to hold it in position with one hand, up over your head, with dirt falling in your eyes, while simultaneously trying to get the mounting bolts started in blind holes. I finally had to rig up a rope - tied it to the dryer, and ran it up and out the air cleaner access hatch, then back down to the ground where I was sitting. I was able to hoist the dryer up into position with the rope, tie it off, then use both hands to get the mounting bolts started.
I have since replaced the OEM muffler with a Magnaflow, so the next time I have to change out the dryer, it will be a little easier.
Or perhaps I will just sell the coach instead...
It can be funny now, but not during the operation, I'd imagine! What a stupid freaking way to install something that needs attention from time to time! Kenhat is going to try his, I'd bet I'll hear him cussing from California! This is one of those issues that makes me think I should have restored the Airstream!
Actually, it is in one of the MORE accessible locations. On Freightliner chassis DP's it is OVER the rear axle!
Like a lot of things in life, the designers never used the product OR thought about the next guy!
Mike, if they ever let you into Canada you can stop at our place and we can drink (hide ) the Beer etc in the pit while pretending to do the dryer (if you want?)
JohnH
Mike,
OK, I stand corrected. With both you and John "working" in his pit with a case of beer, it could take a couple of hours.
But, those are good hours.
Thanks John, The Airstream got me into trouble at the border and I'm sure our pretty FT will do the same. :'(
I did mine in about two hrs. Changed out the ad 4 with A.d 9.. it does help to have an extra set of hands.
Thanks Andy, I asked the DW to help, but got a serious "thumbs down". ::)