Anyone ever replace a 6 gallon propane only water heater with a dual propane / electric unit? Wondering how difficult it is.
Assume you have a TWO WAY (propane and motor-aid). Either make sure of what you have or plan on modifying the engine/heater hose.
Should be no issue to replace it.
What is wrong with it???
I have no idea how familiar you are with electricity, Dwayne, but the setup for electric on my FT water heater is as simple as wiring up a switch and fishing a wire over to the water heater.
You'd be adding a circuit breaker to your existing electrical panel, cutting in a switch somewhere (or even possibly using the circuit breaker as the switch, preferable to get one rated SWD/switch rated) and running romex over to the location and making connections. My FT has a somewhat hidden chase from the base of the bed, where the electrical panel is located, to an area underneath the shower which can be accessed by removing the furnace duct in the bedroom. Don't know if yours is setup this way but from there I can fish the wire to under the bathroom sink where all the downstairs electrical wiring drops down.
It would take a good bit of a day if you've never removed any of this stuff before because FT didn't seem to have future access to some of this stuff as a high priority and you'll have to figure out how to take it apart. Your setup may be completely different though.
Robert is exactly correct. You will be fishing a wire from under the front of the bed (main 120 VAC breaker box) to the water heater location under the galley. New breaker and you are good to go.
But, I would need to do quite a bit of camping with free shore power to justify the change!
Amazon.com: Camco 11673 Hot Water Hybrid Heat Kit - 6 Gallon: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-11673-Water-Hybrid-Heat/dp/B0024ECCJW?th=0)
I have a propane only hot water heater I've been thinking about adding one of these.
Anyone have experience with this add-on?
Doug- if your water heater is still the original, I'd probably just wait until it dies and replace the whole thing with an electric/propane/motor-aid unit. I would guess that you are closing in on the end of the life cycle of the original at near 20 years old. My tank started leaking last year.
But to answer your question, I've never used one of the add-on electric heating elements before. That unit that you linked seems far less powerful than the factory heating elements which IIRC are over 1000 watts.
This sounds just like (a copy of?) the "Original" Hott Rod (sic), which has been around for years. Google, or search Forum, for Hott Rod to see comments pro and con. Should be OK as a auxiliary or "maintainer" heat source, but will be slower heating water (from cold) than the gas burner. Most appropriate application would be in Attwood water heaters, which (I am told) do not require a anode rod.
Ours came with the auxiliary 110V rod style heater element. We have a switch inside to turn it on/off. It works well and simple to install. Several different brands are available from 600 to 1500 watts. See page on ebay: Hot Shot Lightning Rod RV water heater kit 110 volt | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Hot+Shot+Lightning+Rod+RV+water+heater+kit+110+volt&_itemId=280981575413&_trksid=p2047675.m4099)
Good way to make your 2 way hot water heater into a 3 way and save on propane if at a RV park.
Pierce
3way is the best! I hardly use propane if I am plugged in. Only use propane when boondocking. Also, I've never run out of hot water while showering.
I installed a Hot Rod on my 93 U225. It was an easy install, and I got the 120 volt power off the duplex plug under the driver side refer cabinet that the OEM vacuum used. A bit of fishing the cord from in front of the sink water heater under the sink base shelf, below the stove/oven cabinet to under the refer. Your floor plan may be different. I installed the Off/On switch inside the right hand under sink cabinet door.
From that day on, we never needed to use the propane option again.
Previous owner, who lost my RV to repo, let the water system freeze which crushed the propane and engine heat exchanger ducts thru the tank. Literally crushed shut, no engine coolant flows, the propane burner blows back out the inlet. I'm going to install a whole new unit early next year. Till then, I'm running it off 110v. Usually just turn it on for five minutes prior to a shower and have plenty of hot water.
Thanks for all the replies regarding the add-on 110 volt H2O heating element.
I did just order one online since it's Cyber Monday!
Hasn't been my style to be plugged in but it'll be nice to have the option. Doug
I put a small 400W element in the Lazy Daze, I could use the 500w solar to heat water when the batteries got full.
Brett, as you are most familiar with my layout...could you elaborate on the wire run? I looked it over and am not sure I can there from here (breaker box to WH).