My bathroom lights would not shut off and the controller under the fridge was warm so I swapped it around and now that is doing the same thing. My guess is I have a relay shorted somewhere, Does anybody know if there are parts available or replacement controllers? I will change the fluorescent lights to LEDs to solve the high amp draw but would like to replace the 2 controllers and also the wall switches the lights are burned out, Thank you Adam
I am having a few problems with the controllers and I am considering upgrading to the new Road Commander System from Intellitec.
Products - Multiplex Systems - Road Commander - Road Commander (http://www.intellitec.com/index.php/products/Multiplex_Systems/Road_Commander/Road_Commander)
http://www.intellitec.com/assets/pdf/2089_intellitec-usa_brochure-2015-v7.pdf
I know at one time there were some floating around on eBay. But I noticed in the literature they are programmable so i don't know if you can just swap them.
MNMaudio@roadrunner.com is who emailed me about the upgrade they might be able to help you with the controllers
Mine did/does the same stupid thing. I don't know why, I guess the bathroom lights have a higher current draw than the ohter circuits but the relay gets very hot. The old relay stuck off. I replaced it and the new relay stuck on once. It hasn't done it since but I've found not leaving the bathroom mirror lights on very long is a reasonable workaround. I need to investigate what is going on and check the current draw. Those controllers have a 15 amp fuse on each circuit and really should be just fine so it makes no sense to me. Clearly it's a design issue if someone else has the same issue I did.
Mark, that is what mine is doing also, where are the relays at? I was thinking the controller has a builtin relayof sorts and I would have to replace the controller, I am replacing all my fluorescents with LED, those are the only ones in coach that arent LED. Thanks
Adam. Mine is under the fridge on a pull out tray
Mine is in the same location, the question is are there other relays or is the relay built into the controller?
The relays are extremely uncommon and must be sourced from the UK. They are soldered to the board so you must have soldering skills. Please do not throw away your board, I would be willing to pay for shipping to have a spare if you otherwise wouldthrow it away. I have only 1 spare relay left so I won't part with that.
Thanks Mark, that is what i figured, I am working on sourcing some and will let you know.
I talked to a Itellitec tech support, M&M Rv Electronics in Ohio this morning and he is saying that our controllers are obsolete, He is saying that Itelitec has a upgrade system that can be installed for around 2200 for parts, They would need all the parts from the current system to preprogram , and it would essentially plug in, the pins from connectors would have to be put into upgraded plugs and the wall switch plates are a bigger size so the openings would have to be bigger, Sound like it would be a good system but a substantial cost, I have some feelers out seeing if I can find used replacements, I will change my fluorescents to LEDs for sure, That is the only lights on coach that aren't, exterior and interior, I also talked to FT parts, (Mike) he was very helpful but they dont have any parts available, I found out in the conversation that Jerry Springer bought my coach new,
Adam did he say which system?
Its a Intellitec system, its not sold as a complete system but he would put it together as individual pieces and program it to fit the coach. He did say he has installed it on quite a few coaches and installed it would be around 3000.
I didn't know if that was the road commander or just the standard multiplex system.
I am not sure as havent had time to research more but I am thinking it is the multiplex system,
I think they basically just custom make you a new system similar to the newer motorhomes. Probably the LED backlit switch panels. I am guessing here. Knowing the work involved here making labels, and coding the modules. Honestly $2200 isn't that bad. $3000 is where I would consider it to be getting spendy.
I'm too cheap though, I would always fix mine. I had a failed panel before we bought the coach and they were able to repair it for $50.
FT quoted me $3K to replace my system a couple years ago. I replaced all the lights in my Intellitec switches. It's a fussy soldering job, but very doable.
I was actually thinking about converting mine over to LED's. I'd try to make a nice dimly lit LED backlight that I could leave on all the time without worries to power consumption or heat. Those little bulbs in there consume quite a bit of power overall.
You can go on line to find grain of wheat sized bulbs to replace the burned out bulbs.
Jim
I don't leave the switch backlights on all the time. I turn them off each time after I find the right switch. Power consumption is nil.
I'd really like mine to be on at all times, even though I know what switch is what. That's why I'm after the LED's. The bulbs are too bright too. The LED's might be as well unless I source real small ones. Still haven't gotten around to those experiments yet.
I have a 2007 Nimbus and the light controller in the bedroom has one button that sticks preventing me from turning it on or off. Has anyone tried to repair one of the and how do you get it out of the wall?
Since someone revived this I will tell you I found the real issue with my kitchen light not working and bathroom light causing excessive heat. It was a cold solder joint on one of the legs of the relay. I actually think it was where the wire connector plugged in and not at the relay. Either way I soldered a wire in place of 2 traces and all is well. My understanding of the flow through those relays wasn't entirely correct and that steered me off course. Basically if you look down into the fuse holder on your box and you see any melted or discolored plastic or the box is quite hot when certain circuits are on you have this problem and it is a slight fire risk. In my case the cold solder joint and the heat generated from it is what fried my kitchen/bath relay (they are combo relays).