We just returned from Ft. Leavenworth, Kansas after attending our son's promotion ceremony to Major, (so proud!) I am having constant issues keeping the batteries from draining. It also draws down house batteries. I have to disconnect the negative lead on the chassis batteries every night or it will draw them down to nothing. Even with generator running, It will fault halfway thru the night. Any suggestions besides installing a battery disconnect switch? I plan to do that regardless. When the coach is running, voltage levels are 13 volts. Chassis Batteries are new and have been checked/load tested. Following Added: I have now discovered that this problem has taken out my Prosine Inverter/Charger so I am in the process of ordering new Magna 3000 Hybrid. A mere $2100.00 what fun! (Talked to previous owner. House batteries were 13 years old. Changed them out with new batteries and ordered new inverter/charger. Should solve my problem. Thanks for your replies.
Boost or other solenoid stuck on? Start hand testing for heat/warmth.
Pierce
Don't know where boost solenoid is located, but it does not light when depressed.
Especially if the boost solenoid was stuck "closed", there would have to be a substantial load connected to drain the batteries overnight.
HMMmmmmmm...(thinking really hard).
A short circuit would either trip a protection device (fuse, circuit breaker), or start a fire (heaven forbid), so not too likely...
(still thinking...)
Does this happen when plugged into shore power, or unplugged and running on inverter, or both?
Obvious that your isolation device is somehow bridged. Have another person stand in the bedroom while you activate/deactivate the boost switch. They should hear it click. On my older FT, the solenoid is near the batteries, under the entry steps, but over time, the location has migrated. Someone here should know where yours is.
As for the drain, check in closed compartments. I have a friend who had this exact issue, and spent a bunch of time and money trying to resolve it. Finally, he opened a bay door, and found a light bulb glowing. Spent several hundred dollars because of a $2 light left on.
But he got a lot of new equipment.
A disconnect switch is a good idea. I'm a tad confused (not enough coffee yet) about the "it will fault halfway thru the night" comment. You mean the gen set faults or your batteries drain? Good point about a simple light in the bay being left on.
Mike,
Chuck is probably correct. While the boost solenoid may get too hot to touch after an hour, it may not drain fast enough to flatten your batteries overnight. HMMmmmm, also still thinking.
You say the batteries are new. Possible installation problem/mistake? Did it also happen before the new batteries were fitted?
Boost solenoid switch on the dash may have a burned out bulb. OK, your solenoid is probably on your coach 12V bus panel along with the isolator, water pump relay, remote start solenoid, etc. You could carefully remove the positive cable from the isolator and then check overnight.
How about checking the current draw at the batteries? You could also drive it to a mom and pop electrical shop and for not much $$, they can figure out where the problem lies.
Solve the problem before putting in a disconnect switch. You NEED to know what is causing this.
Pierce
A '02 U320 (according to Beamalarm.com) has 3 gel 8D house batteries, and 3 D31 engine start batteries. If both those banks are (somehow) tied together, that is a lot of AMP-HOUR potential. I'm trying to figure what could drain that much power, and yet not be immediately obvious to the casual observer. Very puzzling...
Just a thought was each battery load tested individually?
I thought ALL FTs had a battery go/no go switch. Still in the dark (pun intended) about the OP's problem. I'm starting to lean towards a battery problem, rather than a short or something left on, tho that do happen!
Your boost solenoid is probably under the foot of the bed, on the engine side.
Here are a couple of picture of mine, before and after replacement.
Hope this helps,
Trent
The "Salesman Switch" is a convenience device used to turn off lights and electrical outlets inside the coach. What the OP is talking about is a "Master Disconnect" switch that would be located immediately adjacent to the batteries. Used to cut ALL power coming out of batteries.
Photo of the switch on our coach. The big red one...
Just a thought,on my 96 the charging voltage should be set at 13.7/13.8,could it not be charging all the way.
Is that an aftermarket battery disconnect switch?
My thought, as well, sure looks nice & clean in there! ^.^d Will poke in ours under the cover on the right.
Could be, ours, plugged in, with fresh batteries, shows 13.5 VDC. Our True Charge 40 shows nothing causing both banks to be charging, as it should, except for the usual coach draw & make-up, which is minor.
Yes, they are sold by Blue Sea. Like all their products, it is top-of-the-line marine grade weather proof...a good one!
m-Series - Blue Sea Systems (http://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/37/Manual_Battery_Switches/m-Series)
Susan and I are interested in this thread because we watch our various battery system monitors and end up mystified. For example:
- When connected to shore power we'll see 13.7 to 13.9 for what we believe to be HOUSE batteries — seen on the battery/voltage monitor plugged into top 12V outlet on the dash. We have 3 new 8Ds, if that affects voltage we're seeing?
- We saw 14.0 last week while on the generator.
- As soon as we go OFF shore power, 13.7 to 13.9 drops to 12.8, yet the inverter/charger was not showing that the batteries were charging at that time. So, shouldn't the voltage reading have been constant?
- Complicating our understanding of things, we have the old ProSine panel, not the ACS (2.5 or 3.0), which we would love to have, if anyone has one kicking around their garage.
- Finally, our SeeLevel system monitor is in the bath, because we use it mostly for tank levels. However, the way it was installed, it is supposed to show ENGINE batteries' voltage. The SeeLevel seldom shows more than 12.8, although given its location, we don't look at it as often as the dash monitor for the house (we think) batteries. Maybe it shows 13's at times while charging?
Clearly I need a class in coach battery power management, so, sorry for dumb questions. But our previous batteries tested as shot, by two different techs, working at two different locations — so we think they were genuinely bad. After the bucks required for 3 new 8Ds, and 3 new red tops for the M11, we'd really like to understand what's going on and what we can do to prolong battery life. We know tutorials are beyond the scope of the Forum, but any pointers to resources (online class?) welcomed! And as always, thanks! ForeForum's members are amazing.
Three references from my collection of "handy links". They helped me understand how this stuff works...mostly.
Electrical Tutorial - Chapter 7 - Batteries and Chargers (http://www.rvtechmag.com/electrical/chapter7.php)
Battery Basics: A Layman's Guide to Batte | BatteryStuff Articles (http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html)
The RV BATTERY CHARGING PUZZLE « HandyBob's Blog (http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/)
Chuck & Jeannie,
Many thanks! Will check the out now. Sitting in customer lounge waiting for other (routine) coach maintenance, so this will be good study time. :-)
Don't be sorry, we've all been down that road. There seem to be so many different charging systems on these coaches (some after market), that only a forum member who has the same system can be of help. Hang in there!
Sorry Chuck the "OP" Threw me for a loop in your post showing the battery disconnect switch....Read it as other poster ::)
Just when I was saving some coach bucks, Chuck comes along with something that should have been stock!
Mike,
You already have one. Under front of bed-- mechanical battery combine switch. OFF= alternator charges chassis battery only.
ON= both chassis and house banks charged by alternator.
ON also is a very high amp battery combine switch/duplicate of the boost switch.
Also, the Bluesea electronic switch for the ignition solenoid (rated for 1 million cycles and 450 amps continuous). Under left side of flip up dash.
Is that the red household type switch on the foot of the bed?
I'm blown away, again. I don't consider her MY coach nor did it belong the PO whom we bought her from. Some of you know Bess was once Papa Brett's coach and I thank my lucky stars (I thought I'd depleted them) for every time I am in a quandary (daily) Brett has been right there! Thanks over and over, Brett, the world ( including used FTs ) would be in much better shape if you were the PO! ^.^d ^.^d ^.^d
I think what you're seeing is you're engine block heater switch.
The switch that they are talking about (battery disconnect) is not a OEM Installed Item. Not to be mistaken for the 12 Volt master (salesman) switch by the door.
Not on our coach, the engine block heater switch is a typical household unit on the left below the 12 volt box. The big red switch on the right hand side of the bed is as Brett described.
We seem to have some hijacking of this thread drifting away from the OP's request for help. This is a common complaint we hear from folks asking for help on a specific problem and it's why a number of folks have told us they no longer post here.
Let's keep this one on topic and I'm sure a moderator will split out the generic discussions of solenoids and shut off switches....
OK