So..have two water leaks that I can't see a source on..one is coming from the clean water tank area when you are hooked up to city water. It seems like perhaps some sort of overflow on the tank? The other leak comes from the aqua hot water heater area and leaks the most when the hot water is cooking. This leak drips from up above in the hot water heater area and fills the insulation beneath the tank as it drips down. Any ideas?
I just had Rudy Legett repair a similar sounding leak in my Aqua Hot. He can explain where to check better than I. He is a member and you can PM him or he frequently on line and will probably see this post and respond.
You should include your coach info in your signature so members will know the model and year. Someone will have the same coach and will be better able to help.
Can't help with AquaHot - others more qualified.
On the fresh water leak. If this happens when you are connected to shore water, and your fresh water tank is full, then you may have a malfunctioning "fill valve". Water can leak past the valve, over-fill the tank, and it will come out the overflow vent.
David,
I have sent you a message.
Mine is leaking at the top joint of the Manabloc manifold. Well hidden. Have not found any repair info for the manifold....yet. But I do now have a spare water pump.
Want everyone to be aware that water leaks in the basement, particularly the wet bay are a LOT more critical on a Foretravel than SOB's. These leaks are one of the primary causes of BULKHEAD FAILURE.
In fact, several years ago, Dianne and I had an agreed deal on a beautiful 2001 in FL, pending mechanical inspection. Drove from Texas to pick it up. Two hours later, left for the drive back home-- a bad $.15 gasket on the shore water inlet had been leaking long enough that there was a mineral stalactite hanging from it. The water had totally taken out the rear bulkhead.
Brett,
Thanks! Concerned about this. We have been in sub-freezing temps for several weeks. So we fill the fresh water tank and operate on the water pump. Haven't wanted to buy heated hose, etc., knowing we don't want to be in this climate forever.
But we have seen water below the manifold block and the water pump, as well as under the reels on the driver's side of the coach. Thanks for the heads-up. We will have the bulkhead and bulkhead bolts checked in January when we have the coach in for other service.
Water under the reels can be due to a malfunctioning back-flow preventer at your fresh water fill point. The one-way valve gets blocked with trash or sediment, won't close completely. Then you pressure water system with pump, and water flows out the fill connection. If you can get to it, remove it and take it apart, clean it out, reassemble. If inaccessible, you can put a cap (or a screw-on valve) on the fill connection to stop the leak. As Brett says, Don't Tolerate Water Leaks!
I can't agree with Brett more. When I first got my coach it had a slow fresh water leak that showed itself in the wet bay under the battery tray. For a while I thought "fresh water, so what" . I fixed the leak and now years later I am faced with redoing the frame work under the wet bay and I'm sure as i get into it a major bulkhead repair. Never let anything leak is my take away...
I do the paper towel test. Put a sheet at where there might be a leak. If the towel gets wet then fix the problemi. Repeat. Water leaks are the worst thing for your coach. Don't wait.
If a leak under or close to the pump it COULD be coming from the drain hole in bottom of pump and if so means you have some calcium or? under one or more of the round valve seals and you should take it apart (the pump) and gently lift and clean each one of the 4 pump valve glands and put it back together and you will be ok. Did this on this long trip and it has worked fine for last month or so and not a drop has dripped!!
JohnH
Our overflow has leaked in the past. That spa tubing they use for the overflow is kind of tough to seal. I changed mine to a vinyl tubing and sent it through the floor instead of over the bulkhead. Also used a pipe dope on the actual threaded bulkhead fitting. Not too big of a job but kind of scary to drill through the floor. The other leaks I've had are from the flojet water pumps. Both of those leaked pretty close to each other. Luckily I have water alarms and caught them all immediately. These are fantastic and simple:
Battery-Operated Water Alarm-BWD-HWA - The Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Basement-Watchdog-Battery-Operated-Water-Alarm-BWD-HWA/100038838)
Removed the water heater..it had a pin hole..replaced it and we're dry now. That leak had also migrated across the water tanks bay to the drivers side, so that is dry now also. Thanks again for help. On another subject..just a little totally confused on how twelve volt light circuits work in our 94 u300. For instance.. the three switches just inside the door. The one that runs the overhead florescent light has two spades like any normal switch that I'd be familiar with, but strangely..when you test for voltage when the bump rocker switch is off...it shows 13.6. However..when you bump the rocker switch to on..it simply drops to 13.3..begging the question..how can a switch be off with the overhead light dark and obviously off and the switch show power? Then..the middle switch which turns on the step and hall lights. That has two spades also and shows 13.6 volts when in the off position(I assume that means an open circuit like any other switch would). Then when you turn the lights on (and they all work fine)..the voltage goes to zero! These are not normal circuits to me. I'm sure there is a simple answer?
David,
Your bump rocker switch that is in question should be operating a relay that in turn operates the light. There should be another switch somewhere that operates the same light. ( a lot of coaches that switch is located over the sink)
Pamela & Mike
Thanks Mike. I understand what you are talking about with the relay, but looking for an answer to how you can have the volt meter probes actually on each terminal of the switch and see 13+ volts when the light that it operates is off..maybe the relay functions by making a closed circuit when power is interrupted temporarily with the rocker and breaks that same circuit with the rocker again? But also..the switch next to it shows a similar voltage reading when the light that it operates is off..and then when you turn that switch on..the light operates and turns on..but the voltage completely goes away. Anyway..strange circuits. Same thing in the bathroom..not your average switch that interrupts a ground or a live 12 volt line. There must be a panel with relays that these switches manage somehow..but ?
David,
There was a discussion several years ago on how those switches were wired along with a wiring diagram that shows how they are wired. I will try to find that thread and post a link to it later today as I can't seem to find it right now.(I can find the thread for the water pump relay which works the same but not the one for the lights) As far as the relay location for the lights ours are not in one location, they are hid in various locations in the coach.
Pamela & Mike
Here is a link to the water pump thread & wiring diagram scroll down a few post for the wiring diagram.2002 U270 Water pump switching/relay issue (LONG) (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=18384.msg125971#msg125971)
A suggestion for all of us with relays that have several switches. Find and record on your wiring info the location of each one you can while they still are working. They will click when they work. When they quit working you might be hard pressed to locate them.
My galley relay is hidden behind a panel I did not realize was in the upper cabinet. My bath relay is hidden under a TV shelf, and above our drawer unit. I recorded the 3 way water pump switch location, and have forgotten where we found it.
might have been behind the panel in the storage bay, I found 2 there.
Bill..thank you..send that diagram when you can and have time. It will help a lot.
David