Ok just left my GV checking things out for a New Years trip to the keys. Noticed the left hose on the Water pump is leaking. I need some advice from all you pros #1 I am 99.99 % sure what is in the attached pic is in fact the water pump (need that confirmed) am I right? #2 does anyone have a part number for the replacement hose that you can see is wet? #3 how much antifreeze can I expect to have to capture with replacing this hose? Any other input from you all is greatly appreciated. I spent $2800.00 a few months ago at DD In Tampa having all fluids/filters/belts changed and almost passed out when I was presented with the bill. I then vowed to do what I can myself...
I tried to tighten the clamps but it's still seeping.
Thanks,
Woodie
Have you warmed the engine up before tightening? From the looks of your picture it is only leaking out of the top of the hose at the water pump. If it were me I would use silicone after sliding the hose down and retighten.
@Woodie
Yes that is the water pump. You don't need a part number for the hose. Just pull it off and take it to a truck parts shop (NAPA or similar). They can match it up and cut it to size for you. You can drain anti-freeze at the radiator into 5 gallon buckets then reuse after you replace the hose. You will need 3 buckets and an extra to catch fluid from when you remove the hose. It's usually easier just remove the clamps then cut the hose off.
Be sure to check the back of the water pump for leakage. There is a weep hole there and if water is leaking from there the seal is shot and you will need to replace the water pump.
see ya
ken
That hose is sold by the foot, I would recommend that if you drain the system to change that hose you should change the other hose in the picture that also goes to the water pump. The clamp at the leak appears to be tightened until it ran out of gear meaning it might be one size too big. Most common failures of that style of pump is leaking at the snap ring on the pump in the picture and leakage at the DD emblem in the plate held in by the snap ring.
Woodie,
As Ken says, the pump may be leaking from the back side and that is what is responsible for the coolant that is visible on the top of the hose.
That is a silicone hose that never needs replacing. Drain the coolant, buy a roll of emery cloth, wrap the end of the pump with the abrasive cloth and pull back and forth to clean the pump where it goes into the hose. Inspect and clean the inside of the hose and reinstall with a new clamp if the hose checks out OK. Silicone hose is very pricy but I have never seen any fail.
The shop manual for the Detroit is available online for the R&R of the pump. The pump kit is $36 at: 5149711 | Detroit Diesel Water Pump Repair Kit | 6V92 | 8V92 (http://www.detroitdieselpartsdirect.com/DS5149711)
Another example of shops taking advantage of retired RV owners. They could never get away with that with a trucking company.
OK, I spent less than $100 for the oil filter and 7 gallons of Delo 100 #40. 5.5 gal in the crankcase and the rest to add between 10K oil changes. I changed all the belts in North Carolina before heading home to California after we bought the coach. About $70 for 4 Gates Green Stripe belts (two alternator, one hydraulic and one AC belt). Another $30 or so for the two fuel filters. If you are slow, it will take a couple of hours to do it all. A decent mechanic should be able to get it all done in one hour. At $2800, it's a huge profit for the shop.
Order all filters and belts online and save at least 40% even with any shipping.
Don't forget to inspect the air cleaner. Two cycles use twice as much air and the intake is right behind the rear wheels where it picks up everything including small branches. Changing made a big difference in how ours ran. About $65 delivered from online source.
Pierce
Contrary to what Pierce said, we did have a few silicone hose couplers that went bad (rather quickly actually, only 4 years old). I assume they were defective. They were very obvious with many cracks around the outside.
Maybe different grades of Silicone Hose, we use a lot of the 5/8" for engine block heaters, the good lasts over ten years, the cheapo less than half that. On Cummins you want the good quality due to Cummins runs a lot more water pump pressure, not same as system pressure like radiator cap.
Also, you should use the spring loaded clamps for silicone hoses. They will leak if the standard clamps are used.
TOM
I replaced all the hoses front to back on my 91 rear radiator drained almost 20 gallons out you'll need 4 5 gal buckets to be safe if the later models hold as much.
Also a cheap kerosene heater siphon pump with a piece added to the fill line makes it way easier to refill the radiator if your reusing coolant.The bucket needs to be. Higher thsn the rad but once its started you csn drink beer and watch . Myself if I were you Id do all those connector hoses with new and new tension clamps, do it once snd your good for another 22 years or so.
91 Grand Villa Hose Replacment (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23006.msg177332#msg177332)
Since you just had the engine serviced, my guess is that the Detroit Techs over tightened the clamp and ruined it. Before going too far buy a new clamp and see if that will stop the leak. One thing I have found on Vintage motorhomes is every time you disturb the status quo you cause another problem. Always do the easiest things first and don't over think the problems. I follow the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" saying to keep frustrations and costs low.
Ok, you all have been most gracious with your advice/direction I thank you. This A.M. I went under the coach in search of the weep hole on the back of the water pump and sure enough it was crying leaking my priceless coolant that DD installed in Tampa. So I called DD in Tampa and as luck would have it they had one pump in stock and $346.00 later I was on my way. I opted to get it from them because I need to get this project started and completed before leaving for the keys Wed next week. I would have had to pay for express shipping anyway so this made more sense. Not sure if I'm going to do it myself the real problem is all the coolant I know that I can put it all in 5 gal buckets then pump it back in. I have been quoted $400 - $500 in labor to install (that's a-lot of fuel).
Just curious: How high is the typical Cummins water pump pressure?
Not sure my coach has a DD.
It sure does-- or did I miss a joke in there somewhere?
Detroit Diesel 6V92 two stroke diesel.
Yeah, it does...
Here is the link Detroit Diesel 92 series shop manual in PDF format as requested by members. Open the link and then click on the section you want to view. In this case, cooling will to the trick. www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com - /downloads/DETROIT 92 SERIES ENGINE SERVICE... (http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/DETROIT%2092%20SERIES%20ENGINE%20SERVICE%20MANUAL/)
Note that there are two different pumps for 6V-92TAs. Check the face of the pump before ordering.
Special thanks to the Wanderlodge Owner's Group for putting it online. We met about 80 coaches plus members in Death Valley on the way back from Quartzsite last February.
Wanderlodge Owners Group - Powered by vBulletin (http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/)
Pierce
Pierce,
Correct and that pump in the picture is called the "Walking" model, they have the standing, walking and running model. Just a bit of useless info about my beloved DDC 2 stroke babes.
The question might come up when asking for a replacement.
No number, but have heard numbers Like 40 psi.
Curious minds want to know: What is the difference it the standing, walking and running models and is there some significance in how the got those model designations? Thanks!
Think I found them,
Look at the two bottom hose legs, and if you have a reverse rotation engine, it takes a different gear helix. You will find the DD engines are capable of many uses. installations, etc. plus horsepower from mild to very wild.
The Foretravel version is the walking model.
Enjoy
Another curious mind,for the $500 install fee,I wonder if they could find time to paint the pump?
Should powder coat it for those numbers, an hour job if you take coffee breaks.
Be careful heating to 400 degrees without checking if it has a seal. How do I know?
Avoid HF guns as they are only 20kv. Direct order a 100kv gun/controller from China for about $272 delivered. Also will need a 110V to 220V converter but only $35.
Works great. Have photo if anyone is interested.
Pierce
You can change that pump yourself. Meticulously clean the surface on the block before installing new gasket and pump. Tighten bolts less than one degree before backing out when removing old pump. That $2800.00 oil change/filter belt deal is absolutely outrageous!
Ok the pump is installed test driven and triple checked for leaks. However, When I returned back to the storage area and checked everything for the third go around I noticed a small amount of oil seeping out of this mysterious hole in the side of the pump see attached. I looked at the old pump and that hole is not there. I called DD in Tampa spoke to the service dept and was told that hole was part of the molding of the pump. That can't be right. I decided to double check the mounting bolts on the pump they were very very tight but was able to tighten 1/8 of a turn and it has seemed to have stopped. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Woodie
Just an idea so it looks nice,paint that shiney new pump or in a couple of weeks it will be rusty,will not make it last any
longer just look neater.You do not have to use hi heat paint on that pump,krylon is good.
Good Idea will do.....
Woodie,
I don't think it's in a location that would work for a weep hole. I do think it's a casing artifact. The entire case behind the water pump is an oil bath so any location not perfectly sealed can leak. Hopefully you fixed it by tightening the bolt. If not I would suspect that maybe you didn't get the giant o-ring on the back properly seated. It would be a pain in the butt to pull the pump and check but if it keeps leaking you may have to go that route. Be sure to NOT strip out the threads on that aluminum case or you will be pulling the pump anyway!
Including pics of mine. As you can see it's already rusting even with painting. Paint sooner rather than later. :) Seems I have a new item on my todo...
see ya
ken
Boy Ken, that looks terrible. I would replace the pump if I were you. You seem to like playing with the cooling system so much, why not?
By the way, Ken and I are good friends and he understands my dry humor.
Nobody understands your humor Kent unless there is mass quantities of bourbon involved. >:D >:D >:D
see ya
ken
If the rubber gasket had slipped wouldn't it be leaking where the pump meets the aluminum housing? We just stopped for the night on the way to the keys. I just looked at the pump and it is indeed seeping oil and slinging it a bit. Ugh the last thing I want to do is take that pump off again. Maybe a defective pump? BTW the temp is running from about 190-200 pulling my jeep about 62mph. You can tell when the fan comes on the temp drops very quickly.
Woodie
What about sealing up the hole? According to DD it's not pressurized oil in that area it is fed in and slings around with the gears.
Woodie
The coolant temps sound about right with the ambient temperature running 85 here in south Florida. Just never let it get over 210 for any length of time.