I have read several posts relative to the OEM steps and renovations thereof.
Mine are past the point where I should do something about them. In fact, they are at the point where I WILL do something.
In almost all of the pictures and actual steps I have seen/noticed the piano hinge is pop-riveted to the step.
As seen below, mine have some type of torx headed screws fastening the hinge to the coach.
My questions is:
Before I start unscrewing them is there something more I should know about them?
Will they snap off?
Can I reuse them come time to put them back?
Are these the "Huck" bolts I've read about?
Obviously, I would rather just unscrew them and reapply than drill out the rivets.
thanks
Elliott,
1. I have had a couple break on a coach or 2 but not likely.
2. Yes if they aren't too rusted If so Fastenal has direct replacements (last ones were about $3.00 for 25)
3. No
4. We do just that. When reinstalling we coat them with C-5A Felpro (whether the old ones or new)
Pamela & Mike
Those are 1/4-20 torx heads - I don't remember the size; 25 or 30 I think. Those don't look too bad. I would soak with penetrating oil and torque them back forth gently. I may not seem like you are getting anywhere but the cycling does seem to slowly break the rust bond. The most most difficult part for me was access with a tool. A driver is too tall so a bit on a ratchet has to be used. I remember it being a pain with so many fasteners along with the rust factor. I would not re-use the torx bolts. I replaced mine with stainless 1/4-20 Phillips head screws in a bed of black silicone. Stainless button head socket screws would work even better but I only had Phillips on hand.
As for the rivets mine were getting loose so I knew water was working its way in through them. I replaced them with the same 1/4-20 stainless Phillips heads. Of coarse I had to tap threads into the step. The fiberglass cover was held on with rivets too: I replaced them with 1/4-20 stainless steel flat head screws. I had to drill countersinks in the fiberglass cover so they would sit flush. I stripped down the steel step and repainted with primer and Rust-oleum. I used black silicone to seal up the cover to the steel step when I reinstalled it. I left the two weep holes on the bottom of the fiberglass cover for drainage- as is the original design.
I did this over 12 years ago and have always noticed a little bit of water running out of the drain holes when the step would go up after a rain - indicating my sealing job wasn't so great. But recently I disassembled my step and found only a small amount of rust on the inside.
Thanks...
When I did my step last month,I sealed it with Loctite S30 roof and flashing polyurethane sealant from Homedepot.
Elliot, if while it is all apart you drill 4 holes about 1/8" dia in the lower edge of the fibreglass cover (when the step is up) and ALSO drill holes to correspond with these in the cross framing that strengthens the inside on step, any water that does get in will find an easy path down to the weep holes and out. The cover is held on with a hard caulking sealer and needs a bit of persuasion to seperate it from frame. This is if it has never been taken off before. I cleaned all that off and just put the cover back in place then use a SS screw on each end to hold cover in place. I then did a bit of caulking around edge to help seal but even if water gets in I know it drains out weep holes. I forgot to mention that I had the frame sandblasted then painted with an underseal paint.
That was a fe years ago and feel it still will be ok.
JohnH
Elliott, when I did mine I left the hinge in place and drilled the rivets on the step. Foretravel has a new step Assy. seems like I paid about $100.00.
If you use flat head socket cap screws you might want to use a 82 degree included angle countersink in order to lower the heads in order to minimize a tripping hazard. Or, you could use button head socket cap screws instead. On a 1/4-20 the head is only .132" max high. The head on a flat head socket cap screw is .161" max height.
On a 6mm dia. (.236"dia.) flat head cap screw the head is .177" max height and the button head is .1299" max height.
(All dimensions are I.S.O. standards listed on my Holo-Krome Company slipstick)
The screws do not affect the stepping area so are not a tripping hazard.
JohnH
Sorry, John, didn't know. Just thinking safety again.
Nothing to be sorry about, nice to know there is a member who knows about bolts etc etc may come in handy sometime.
JohnH
People tell me I don't know anything about bolts, but they have told me that I'm nuts.
Being a strong believer in the 80/20 rule (you get 80% of the job done with the first 20% effort) I overcame a few initial setbacks.
I got 3 of the bolts/screws loose but the other nine or so were more reluctant. I was well into the process of taking the corners off the #30 Torx screw heads.
Then I reevaluated the path to my objective. All I wanted was the old rusty step to look better.
I decided to let sleeping screws lie.
I got out a wire paint stripper wheel and a 4 in scraper I had used to remove old flooring glue.
The scraper took the remains of the old nonskid out just like that!
After stripping the rust and cleaning the step with acetone I masked off the step and surrounding coach.
I used some spray-on rust treatment and I gave the step 2 coats of Rustoleum glossy black paint.
3 M makes a 4x24 in nonskid that fit just great.
I like it!!
Nice job Elliott ^.^d
@elliot
But it doesn't say Foretravel on it!! How could you! >:D
see ya
ken
But it does look like Foretravel owner quality--something to be proud of. Nice job!