Have 4 rivets on one end of the longest basement door that need fixing,the force of the strut pushed the door away from the
hinge.Wondering if I should re-rivet it or bolt it back or even glue the hinge to the door.I removed the strut temperarily to work
on the hinge.
John, is the fiberglass giving way, or the rivets themselves coming apart?
Len
Howdy John44,
Here's a pretty good how-to from Barry's great website:
Fixing Broken Rivet on Fiberglass Door (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/fixing_broken_rivet_on_fiberglass_door.html)
Good Luck, Dave A
Hi John44,
I have the same problem...I sure hope someone can suggest a repair procedure that I may do with fiberglass, etc.
Jim
2002 U320
That's a post of TulsaTrent's that was scraped off Foreforums. Door Latch on the Front Driver-side Door (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=22160.msg171352#msg171352)
The door to the water pump/water heater/Manibloc came off in my hand when I tried to close it. All of the rivets along the hinge gave way. The fiberglass failed and the rivets pulled out of the edge. On inspection, I found that a previous repair for the same problem had been done by drilling new holes in the hinge and the edge of the door. New rivets were installed and the repair lasted for several years. After the most recent failure, there was no room for another similar repair. Rance at Xtreme P&G rebuilt the edge of the door and reinstalled it with new rivets.
I took a piece of 1 1/2x1 1/2 1/8 thick aluminum angle. Ripped one side down to 3/4. Epoxied and screwed the 1 1/2 side to the back side of the door and used the same holes in the hinge. Need longer rivits. Better than factory
does the rivet go through a layer of fiberglass and then into a void? If so I would suggest putting a washer on the back side (the head of a drilled out large face rivet works well) or using an exploding rivet works (the shank has slits in its length so that the rivet folds in and flairs out in fingers) to keep them from pulling through the fiberglass.
Rudy and I fixed a loose latch on his coach. We took the old latch off, removed the rivets, drew some lines so we knew where to put the latch back on. We put on an aluminum plate, about 3/32" thick and an inch or so bigger all around where it needed to be attached with rivets and some 3M tape as I recall and then positioned and riveted the latch to the aluminimum plate. Worked well.