Foretravel Owners' Forum

The pipe connecting the turbo to the intercooler has a lot of rust under the factory installed heat wrap.  I removed it from the coach and started to scrape off the rust. 

Is there any easy way to determine if it is OK to reinstall vs. getting a replacement?

2004 295 ISL 400 no tag

It's probably OK.  No idea why this pipe would have heat wrap, it would be counterproductive as the purpose of the piping and intercooler is to shed heat rather than retain it. 

You could cap one end, use a shop vac on blow rather than suck, pressurize it, spray with soap, see if it bubbles. Or reinstall it, crank the engine and do the same.  If it's ok then some rust neutralizer and paint and Bob's your uncle. 

Check OEM wall thickness at either end and then try to estimate how much has rusted away. A grinder like one of these will get the rust off: Search results for: 'angle grinder ' (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=angle+grinder ) Spray galvanize or other coatings will stop the rust.

Sometimes this pipe gets a bad "rap."  ;D

Pierce

No joy ---- pipe has holes.  I started tapping the rust with a small hammer and immediately found holes.    Would muffler patch tape work on this??

  Maybe just trying to keep the heat away from the electrical connections on the bulkhead at foot of bed.

Buy a new pipe. You don't need rust particles loose on the inside of the pipe. Might even take it to a muffler shop and have them duplicate it.

Pierce

Would it get hot enough to seal off the muffler patch. When ever I've used muffler patch, it didn't form and seal around the pipe until it got very hot. I wonder if propane torching it would work.

  Or just get a new one

Looks like my Monday is planned --- to get a new pipe.

Wrapping that pipe ranks up there with very stupid. Like Chuck said,it defeats  the whole purpose of trying to cool the intake air. FWIW

If Foretravel put it there it might be keeping the heat at that area from doing damage to something. It wasn't wrapped before or after that area and might be needed for this application.

Have to strongly agree with Dave. The pipe does not really get that hot to burn anything around it. If radiant heat were a factor, much better to put a heat shield to protect components rather than wrapping the pipe. Remember where Foretravel put the 6V-92TA block heater?

Pierce

The "To wrap or or not wrap" really has to do with what they (Foretravel) routed in close enough proximity to the pipe that 300 degrees F could cause issues.  Yes, post turbo, temperatures can get that high.

As several have posted, if sufficient clearance to heat sensitive items, do NOT re-wrap.

Larry,how do you know it was "factory installed",maybe some well intended did it.

It was definitely factory installed.  I got the coach less than a year old from someone who had upgraded to diesel, was "getting on in years"  (not like any of us), and found it too much to handle.  I'm sure he didn't add it.

I have built a off set cover for the electric connections on the bulkhead to try to keep them a little out of the weather.  I can add insulation to the cover rather than add the wrap.

After failing to find a direct replacement and also not finding a shop that bends 4 inch pipes, it occurred to me that I really only need to replace the center rusted section of the pipe.  So using a diamond edged circular saw blade that I had purchased to cut a floor tile I replaced last year, I cut out the center section.  Now all I need is an approximately 20 inch long pipe with a 45 degree bend.  This will be much easier to get.  I will update with pictures when I get it all together.

When you buy the tubing make it longer and take it to a muffler shop and have them swedge both ends to go over your two pieces it will be easier than welding. I have had this done on 4" collectors for the race car.

  I'm thinking of using a silicone "hump" hose coupler like the ones that connect the pipe to the turbo - or if I can find one, a silicone hose.

Have seen flexible stainless piping,get a length of that and get it welded.

Here is a link to the 4" coupler

HPS High Temp 4" ID x 4" Long 4-ply Reinforced Silicone Hump Coupler Hose... (http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/hps-4-inch-silicone-hump-coupler-silicon-hose-blue-4-inch-long.html?gclid=COiIr4zQrsoCFQ8vaQod5z4HPw)

Most header manufacturers will void their warranty on any headers that are wrapped, due to premature rust formation.

Flex stainless is really common with diesel PU owners for exhaust pipe. Perhaps replacing the OEM with one piece of flex stainless would do the trick. Stainless does work harden so might have to be supported if it vibrates.

Pierce