So, yesterday and today (and possibly a couple more days if needed) the project has been replacing the Javelina Audit 8T8 backup/tank level/compass system with a modern set of 3 cameras, LCD monitor etc.
Many folks have done this project, but I've found digging up details about it a bit problematic in a few cases so I thought I'd try to document my project a bit and make it a compilation of what we run into and find out. Hopefully I can update the OP in this topic as I go to consolidate the most useful info near the top. I'm still figuring some of this out, so answers and best practices by those that have gone before are gratefully accepted both on my personal mental health and stress levels behalf, as well as those that may follow down the road.
Summary of things I've learned so far:
1. The old CRT monitor in the dash is ONLY a monitor. It does not contain any of the "guts" of the system at all. This makes replacing it a LOT less challenging than might be expected as you are not simultaneously jumping into replacing the tank level system as well. :-)
2. Taking the monitor out of the dash is more time consuming and has more steps than you might think, and it's important that you pay attention to individual steps.
3. Many new camera monitor systems can take a generic "video" input in either RCA plug, HDMI, or possibly coax format.
4. The inputs to the Audit 8T8 monitor consist solely of a single coax video cable.
5. The switch on the dash controls the Audit 8T8 box located elsewhere.
6. By reusing the 12 volt power lines to the power supply of the Audit 8T8 monitor, and hooking up the single coax video that used to connect to the Audit 8T8 monitor to the "Backup" camera slot on your new monitor (or whatever makes sense on your particular system), you should be able to use the existing switches on the dash to view the legacy system (tank levels, backup camera and compass) on your new monitor.
7. You will likely need to be prepared to fiddle and research how to deal with things like reverse/mirror images etc, even if your monitor has a "mirror image" switch you may still hit this issue.
8. Take your time to figure it all out and wire it into the FINAL configuration (utilizing any trigger wires etc) before starting to close up the dash.
9. Be careful about deciding you want to cut into the dash panel to make the new monitor "fit". Disturbing all the wires and controls on that right hand panel may have unintended consequences. Personally I recommend surface mounting the new monitor over the hole from the CRT if needed. I'll detail later the way we plan to do this.
I'll break down some of the steps I followed below in replies to this topic, then ask some questions about issues I'm starting to tackle today to see what corporate knowledge the community can contribute to what I hope will become a compilation of best practices and lessons learned.
Thanks in advance for everyone's help in putting together a resource for future Foretravel renovators/maintainers. Keep Foretravels rigs traveling! :-)
Steps to open dash:
1. Remove any screws added that attach something to the padded dash panel on top that has all the vent hose diffusers in it.
2.
Steps to remove the CRT Monitor:
1. Turn off house battery via installed switch often in the entry stairwell.
2. Disconnect chassis batteries by removing cable from starting batteries, on our rig these are located in a housing under the rear of the rig next to/under the engine itself.
3.
Tools, parts, supplies you may need or find useful.
1. New monitor/camera system of your choice. Check the comments below as well as other topics here on the forum for some of the options others have used.
2. Camera. Take pictures of everything before you start taking any of it apart, you never know when you will need to see some original detail that you failed to see the importance of until too late. Take more pictures at individual stages.
3. Wrenches and sockets.
4. Drill/driver with square and phillips drives.
5. Right angle attachment for drill/driver to handle fasteners you cannot get to because of obstructions.
6. Needle nose vice grips may be needed.
7. Blue painters tape. I NEVER start a project like this without blue painter's tape and a good sharpie/marker. Tape wire ends as you go and lable them appropriately.
8.
I'll update the posts above with more details as I get to next stages, right now I need to get back to the project itself so I'll post all the steps on the lists I started above later this evening or tonight.
Questions:
We're using a Rear View Safety Inc system Model RVS - 770616N Amazon.com : Rear View Safety RVS-770616N Video Camera with 7-Inch LCD(Black)... (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O50XC5Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002LC4WP4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=11DYYEHZ2WBGPG8W8ANW)
When I connect the original Javelina 8T8 coax cable up to the new monitor the camera feed from the not-yet-replaced rear monitor works perfectly. The tank levels makes a buzzing sound from the new monitor speaker, briefly flashes the tank level screen on the new monitor, and then goes to a black screen and sort of "pulses" with flickers periodically. Same with the compass screen.
If I connect an external monitor (I used our 32" LCD TV since it's right over the dash) to the video out connection of the new system multiplexer ("brain", "guts" "video sources box"), the tank levels and compass display perfectly clearly, although they are mirror image reversed.
My guess is that something in the 8T8 system might be sending the video in the wrong frequency, or perhaps there is something that needs to be configured to get the legacy system (8T8) to show correctly on the new monitor.
Does anyone know where the actual Javelina 8T8 system (as opposed to the CRT monitor) is likely to be located?
Does anyone have ideas/insight into what might be causing the Back up camera feed to work correctly on the new system, but the tank levels (and compass for those that care much for it) to NOT display correctly?
Please add a few pictures of your new monitors when you are completed. Thank you for starting the topic.
My audit electronics are located on the floor in the center of the dash. I think your year is mounted on the wall/bulkhead in the center of the dash. Follow the coax from the monitor.
Rich
Yes, I'll be posting pictures later as well.Need to finish the project first so I know what pictures are best to use. :-)
Does anyone know how the center front panel on the dash comes off? Do you remove the vertical panel or take off the plywood substrate for the top of the dash to get to that area?
I don't know if a 1999 u320 is the same, but if it is you can't cut any of the three panels or you will destroy the high voltage panel light system. My cover over the gauges lifted up and removing a lot of nuts let me lift the panel up vertically to change my speedometer.
Understood. I wasn't clear above, sorry. I meant the central upholstered panel that's under the flip up table between the driver side and curb side passenger seat. I've already removed the upholstered dash panel with all the air diffusers mounted in it, just trying to figure out how to get to the area Rich Bowman was talking about the Audit 8T8 system itself possibly being located in. The coax does indeed head into that area, so it's likely that's where it is. The question is how best to get access to it. :-)
On our 1999, one you lift the upholstered hump that is over the gauges up on its hinges, the part which is over the lift out table lifts up. There are a couple of cabinet latches holding it in place, but a good tug will release it. Once that part of the dash is raised up, there is a slide out piece of plywood with the master wiper controls, the audit Computer, and some relays mounted to it. On ours, you can lift it up high enough to sort of lay it down in front of you. You just have to be careful of the wire bundle...
Don
I installed the same camera system. I believe my Audit box was zip tied to one of the frame rails in front of the steering wheel or it was located in the center section of the dash with the flip up lid for the air conditioner. Can't quite remember at this point.
Edit: Don said the same thing.
Same place as Dons after lifting up the centre cover the black painted plywood panel is a pull up /out piece with all those same circuits etc on. It does lift out if you watch for the wire bundles. Just enough wire to lay it flat for working on, so, I guess yors is the same.
JohnH
Thanks Don, rsihnhold and JohnH!
Lost a couple hours with another unrelated issue, but I was just coming back to post that I saw there was a hinge on top over the flip up table, and found that the whole thing just hinged up like the dash instrumentation cover.
Still haven't figured out exactly why the Audit 8T8 video output won't display for more than a split second on the new monitor. I'm thinking I may need to call the manufacturer of the new monitor tomorrow to see if they have any insight/suggestions. The weirdest part is that the old backup camera part of the Audit 8T8 video output works just fine on the new monitor, it's just the Tank Levels and Compass that cause problems. Putting the tank levels up on the big LCD TV overhead (despite it being mirror image) via the video out on the new monitor is actually kind of useful. You can see the levels from anywhere in the front, you can probably just peek in from the ground outside, which would eliminate needing to ask folks to tell me what levels are while dumping/flushing tanks. The ideal would be to run a vid cable down to the service bay so you can monitor tank levels there during tank flushing.
Pretty nice access to the dash considering, this is the first time I've had to do anything beyond opening the dash cover to look.
I did not mess with removing the old CRT. I got a new JVC Stereo that had a 7" screen that would come out of the radio. The good / bad part is the screen can be used to watch DVD, navigation, and backup camera or what ever other video device you want to install. On the rear camera I removed the plate the original camera was mounted to and cut off the camera. Drilled a hole in the glass on the front and installed a 1/2 diameter camera. Then put silicone around the back to hold the camera in place. I used the existing coax and power. Just had to put a new connector on the coax wire. I ended up getting a screw on connector to connect to the existing coax.
I can't help you with the hookup of the Audit system because I removed the system. Good luck.
James,
Did you ever resolve the issue with the 8T8 and your replacement display?
I have a '99 U320. Since it needed a radio update to enable phone integration and digital music sources, I chose one with a 7" fold-out display thinking I might also be able to upgrade the backup camera (which has not worked since I got the coach a couple of months ago.) The CRT display works ok for the 8T8, but it won't last forever, so I was thinking I might be able to simply swap the existing video cable from the CRT to the 1 video input of the new radio head with the idea that the switch that selects between 8T8 and backup camera inputs may still work.
This sounds a lot like what you're doing here. Any luck?
Rich
The audit monitor will output its info backwards on screen, unless your deck features a switch to reverse the scan direction of a given input. Most decks don't have that, some monitors do, and some cameras do. Ironically, both of my monitors and the camera have the reverse switch, so I just set the switch on the camera and leave the monitor as is.
Don
Don,
I just found this in the deck's manual (haven't received it yet), but I'll probably keep it anyway:
(PIONEER AVH-X7800BT)
"CAUTION
Pioneer recommends the use of a camera which outputs mirror reversed images, otherwise the screen image may appear reversed."
Looks like the deck will not reverse the images. Too bad. So I'll have to flush mount a separate LED monitor (one that will reverse the orientation of inputs) and wire that up to the existing selector switch to display both 8T8 and backup camera.
Sounds relatively simple. I'm assuming this is possible, but I really don't know.
Rich
Holy crackers, we're all dyslexic enough without THAT happening! :))