The Airstream had the boost & pyrometer gauges, which I came to depend on in climbing. This coach has neither, should I be installing them or following just my tach & temp gauges? :-\
ISSPRO.com - Quality Gauges, Tachometers, Speedometers and more! (http://www.isspro.com)
Great question, Mike. To add to it, the Silverleaf systems always show that type of info. Are the sensors in place and supplying data to the ECM, or would we be starting from scratch on a pyrometer and boost gauge ?
Thanks,
Len
Pyrometer is a great add on in monitoring your engine load. Silverleaf is great but only calculates boost, and cannot show egt on many coaches.
This is the one I have, the great thing about it is that you do not have to run the probe wire all the way from the engine to the dash. This kit can use any one of the extra wires that foretravel ran from the engineroom to the dash.
V1 Series Pyrometer/Exhaust-Gas Temperature Monitor - VEI Systems (http://www.veisystems.com/ws/v1-series-single-gauges/32-v1-series-pyrometerexhaust-gas-temperature-monitor-.html)
If you are going to install an EGT gauge, install it pre turbo as close to it as can, post turbo will give you a lower reading, and there can be as much as 300 to 400 degrees difference ,1000 degrees pre turbo can be 1300 to 1400 degrees post turbo.
An electronic engine may/will have the boost pressure sensor ready to go with the info available on your data port. The pyrometer will need to have it's sensor installed in the exhaust manifold as close to an exhaust port as possible. Installing downstream from the turbo will not give an accurate reading and will have to be interpolated.
Here is a step by step example on how to install the probe: Do-it-Yourself Pyrometer Probe Installation | Diesel Tech Magazine (http://www.dieseltechmag.com/2014/02/doityourself-pyrometer-probe-installation).
Naturally, for the most accurate reading, probes would have to be installed right as the exhaust gases exit EACH exhaust port. This is how most aircraft monitors do it today. You then drive paying attention to the cylinder reading the highest EGT. Probably not necessary in a RV diesel as you can't lean the mixture so don't need that aspect of the pyrometer.
Pierce
The gauge in the second link appears to work pretty much the same as the autometer gauges we put in the new race car. Setting the gauge color to change at different temps will allow you to focus better on driving. Also the autometer gauges are designed to be able to communicate to a datalogger as well as perform peak recalls. For those of us with engines not equipped with computers or silverleaf this opens a lot of possibilities. To answer your question I would rank pyro as most important but having both will be invaluable if you encounter a driveability issue.
A pyrometer is rarely necessary with our engines if they are in stock condition. If you start messing with fueling, then a pyrometer becomes a necessity.
My m11 nomenclature shows an intake manifold pressure sensor. Hopefully the silverleaf is using it.
Also shows the ether start inlet and no intake heater grid. And a coolant heater input and a oil pan heater spot. On both sides of the pan?
This is must read before anyone buys a pyrometer:
Digital Pyrometer & Boost Gauges - VEI Systems (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=20537.msg149993#msg149993) We are strong believers that to insure accuracy with the milli-voltage between thermocouple and gauge-circuit, all pyrometers require calibration except for the VEI we are using. VEI is the only one we found that uses a sealed factory calibrated remote-circuit.
We always drive mountains by pyrometer and tachometer with manual downshifting to stay in safe ranges. We are never full throttle and always letting up on throttle when EGT gets to near 1,000 or R's get near 1,900.
Boost gauge is our inclinometer to let us know if we are going up or down a hill, and to let us know engine is working ok.
We did not want to drill our cast exhaust manifold so we made hole for the temp thermocouple probe within an inch after the turbo and used a drilled hose clamp to attach it to the exhaust pipe.
The following earlier posting is good advice but the 'pre' & 'post' seem reversed, with high pre-turbo temps reading lower after turbo: "If you are going to install an EGT gauge, install it pre turbo as close to it as can, post turbo will give you a lower reading, and there can be as much as 300 to 400 degrees difference, 1000 degrees pre turbo can be 1300 to 1400 degrees post turbo."
Mike,
If the engine is OE (strongly suspect yours is) there is no need for either.
Said another way, Cat, Cummins, etc designed their engines to "take care of themselves". Boost or fuel past OE and THEN you need to verify you are not doing damage.